260 z

Yes they will fit the body contour and look good. Randalla on Desert Datsuns forum ( Desert Datsuns ? View topic - Tucking bumpers in ) posted pictures and the procedure on 7/5/12 "Tucking bumpers in". That is what I am trying to do but my bumper shocks are not cooperating.

I am remounting the original 260z bumpers back on my 260z but I want to eliminate the fillers. I found posts from Randalla, PalosFu3, Rainman and LeonV who have done this but none of their threads are identical. Welding or pinning the shock in place is my last resort. Since the one shock compressed and stayed in and the other just springs in and out, I was wondering if there could be an internal value, or opening that is hung up or blocked??

I thought about that but did not want to damage the shock, just in case I would ever want to go back to the fillers.

I have also looked through past threads about this subject on this forum, Hybrid Z and on Desert Datsun and would appreciate some clarifications. My z is early 1974 and the bumpers are off. I removed the phillips head screws and heard the gas bleeding out of both front shocks. The shock on the passenger side was depressed with a rubber mallet and "stayed in". The one on the driver's side would not move. I do not have a clap that I could get over the shock while it was installed so I removed the assemble and put it in a vise. There I was able to depress it but when I removed the clap, it extended. I recompressed it and installed the center screw but it still extended when I removed the clap. I mounted it back on the frame and when I hit it with a rubber mallet, it just bounced ( compressed about 1/4" and sprung back ). I have not removed the mounting bracket on the rear shocks yet. What an I doing wrong or missing? Could use some help? Thanks

I have my bezels from a 74 at Custom Coating and Pot Metal Restoration since March to be rechromed. Initally he said they would be done in four weeks, then the date moved to April 22, then it moved to June then on June 30 he said, July 5, finally on July 11 he said they were done and he would ship the next day and call me with the tracing information. Now he will not answer the phone nor my voice mails. The company is located at 4794-C Woodland Circle, Tallahasse, Fl. 32030. The person I have been talking to is Charles at 850-562-3847 or 850-562-0538. IS THERE ANYONE CLOSE TO THIS LOCATION THAT COULD STOP IN AND SEE HIM ON MY BEHALF???? If I have to go the legal route or drive over myself, the cost would be more that the parts are worth. You may contact me via a PM or my cell 281-413-3478. Thanks for any help you can give me.

Good to see another 260z back on the street. I went to the z show this weekend in Houston and there were 240, 280, 300, 350, 370, but no 260z. My early 260 is in the paint shop after being parked for 26 years, I hope to show it at next years show. WELCOME

my early 74 has an aftermarket ac unit and it's drains from the evaporator coil comes from both sides of the coil's case, at the front using 1/2 inch tubing, and exit the passenger compartment on both sides of the transmission tunnel just rear of the firewall.

installed the rebuilt unit today and it works great. Nice to see the car idle at 600 RPR rather than 8000 RPM

Today I installed the rebuilt tach from nlspeedometer and it worked great. They used the plug from the original tach so you just plug it back into the harness

:stupid: Well I don't know why but they are working now. I took several of the suggestions in this thread and I guess one or a combination of several must have worked. When I got back from Kokomo, I installed the rebuilt tach, the replacement clock, the speedometer, and the other components that were out of the dash. Then I disconnected every electrical plug that I could find under the dash and gave them a good cleaning with CRC. After they dried, I reconnected them and started the car. It was idling at about 600 RPM and I knew that because the tach was working!!!! When I walked around the car and saw the windshield wipers unpluged...remenbered reading another thread in which someone stated their wipers did not work unless the alternator was running, so what the heck, I reconnected the plug. Much to my joy...they were going back and forth. I went to the combination switch and got them to work in all three modes. Thanks for your imput...I hope this will help the next person out.

How long ago did the system work? Can you see any wet connections were the oil and freon may have leaked out? If you have not lost the oil, you do not want to overfill the system. Since R134 is cheaper and easier on our enviroment, your approach sounds reasonable. Check my thread on HVAC, it will give a few names of venders that work on the old R12 systems. If the compressor is shot, you may want to convert to R134.

Steve, where in Houston is the track and is it open to the public ?

Thank you Lon and Andrew for your imput. I have been in Kokomo Ind. on a family medical emergency and will get back to Houston tomorrow. I'll check out your advise and post my findings. If your are OK with it, I could send a P.M. about looking at your cars?

Mechanically the wiper are OK. If I connect a wire directly from the positive of the battery to either of the large black wires coming from the motor, the wipers go back and forward on high and low speed. The voltage coming out of the wiring harness is on the Blue/ Red wire ??? Could my problem be a relay that is mounted on the wiper motor and NOT permitting the voltage from the wiring harness get to the motor????

The reason I was trying to get the wiper motor operating correctly prior to painting was so I would not have worry about the paint getting scratched. With a lot of the connections opened, is that why my voltage is low, I'm I chasing a ghost ?

I am refreshing my 260z and the electrical keeps kicking my butt. I was blaming everything on the relays but weak grounds repeatably raises their ugly heads. Most of the wiring connections at the lights, gauges, and the dash are open so the car can go the the paint shop next. Could that be why I am not getting good grounds at some of the grounding point of the harness???? Could that also cause my wiper motor not to work from the combination switch??? Why do I get 10.4 volts on the harness side at the wiper motor connection when the battery is putting out 12.3 volts??? With the key on, and the combination switch at the first position I read: red lead LR wire LW and B read 10.4 volts Y wire reads 9.94 volt descends to zero and starts over again. Second position I read: red lead LR wire B, LY, LW all read 10.4 volts Y and L wires read 9.94 volts descends to zero and starts over again. Third position I read: red lead LR wire B and LW rear 10.4 volts LY reads zero LR and Y read 9.94 volts descend to zero and starts again With the harness connection separated I get these rearing on the motor side: 42 ohms between the LR and W wires 5.6 ohms between the small B and both large B wires continuity between the small B and Y When I apply voltage directly from the battery 12.3 volts to the large black wires, the one makes the wipers go low speed and the other makes the wipers go high speed. SURE COULD USE SOME HELP HERE

Dave, Thanks for your help. I'll send you a PM

Welcome Steve to the forum. There are not a lot of us Texans here. Why the diesel in the name??? Did you put a " power stroke " in your Z ?

Thanks Dave and Gary for your input. I had replaced the battery, the ignition switch and the starter trying to get this car to crank every time I turn the key, but no luck yet. After rearing your reply, I removed and cleaned the ground that is just above the rail under the emergence switch, but can not see any other in that area. I checked the wiring diagram and can not find it. I did see a connector without a wire attached, that is between the fusible link and the battery on the firewall??? I posted this here because, if I can not get this to work, I will need Dave button but, I would like to keep the key. Dave, if I miss the first order, will I be able to order in the future??

I am moving toward the body refresh soon and could use the side rubber fillers for the front and back. Are there any out there??

ROFLROFLPaul...50 is the new 30 for those of us on the down side of 100

All my digging paid off yesterday. I found these three companies that will repair, replace or exchange the evaporator core in the older cars. Air Pro in Georgia 972-288-8888 Arizona Mobile Air 602-233-0090 Factory Air 210-732-9984 in San Antonio Texas I spoke to them and they quoted $125.00 plus freight to repair my core and put a new expansion valve on it. They said they would do it while I waited 2-3 hours. I had nothing planed for the day...so I went for a drive to San Antonio. Three hours later, Jose looked at my core, went to the back room and came out with a service run R134 that would fit into my case. I would have to change the hoses to the compressor and dryer, but I was doing that anyway. He also gave me a replacement expansion valve and said...How about $50.00, I said SOLD and was on my way back home in less than an hour, and I saved two weeks time and $25.00 after paying for the gas. These guys were great to work with. They gave me my old core back and said if I wanted to repair it, mail it to them and they will return same. Because to tubes were so small, they said it would not work as well with the R134 as it did with R12. I wanted to use R134 to be friendly to mother earth and that R12 is so expensive so I will keep the core un-repaired. Today I will secure the core in the case and start the reassembly of the dash.

The first five years I owned the Z, I put 30,000 miles on her and it now has 108,00 miles. The last twenty four years ZERO. If all goes well, I hope to be back on the street in another two or three months. Then it will go out once a week

I am working on my 260 a/c that has a Clardy C4 core ( they are out of business) so I have checked a lot of suppliers. I the process, I have found a new evaporator core for a 240, if you need it, send me a PM

Dave, my early 74 260 sometimes only clicks when you turn the key. Then after a few clicks, she will crank. I have replaced the started but it still does it. Will your system fix that some time clicking feeling????