260 z

Thanks Ray, I called them Friday and was told they only have systems designed for US manufactures cars... I'll keep looking

Thanks David, I called them today but they said they have never provided a system for my car and only sold complete systems and parts for their units. My problem is the nuts that holds the expansion valve on to the evaporator core are almost oxidized away. I would like to replace the expansion valve with a new one before putting the assembly back in the dash. The core was made by Clardy Mfg. but they are out of business. I searched the INTERNET but no luck finding a core manufacture that will make less than 50 units nor anyone that has a cross reference to Clardy's type C4 parts number 075323. I read an old thread from 2005 that stated the z did not have factory air until 78 or 79. Does the dash from a 79 fit in a 74 ? Has anyone ever cut the nuts off, installed new ones and then had the tubing re-flared for the o ring seal????????

My 260 was manufactured in May 74 and someone put an ac system in around Sept 74. I am refreshing this car and still have the York F-209R compressor with R-12. The only place that I have seen parts for it is on ebay. It works today but I don't know about tomorrow!! Has anyone changed out their old York, and what did you go to??

Travel'n-Man did you ever check the voltages coming from your harness?? Is your original tach a 3 or 4 wire?? I will be sending my off tomorrow so we can compare notes

If you have to ground one of the wires, you may be missing a ground from the harness. There are several in the car.

I spoke with nhspeedometer and they said special meters were needed to test the tach out of the car. I told them that I was getting 12 volts on the green wire and 2 volts on the red with black strip at the wiring harness with the key on. Then when the motor was running, the red with black strip would vary from 4.5 at about 800 RPM to 7.5 volts at about 3000 RPM. They thought that sounded correct and that the tach needed rebuilt or replaced. They will bench test at no charge and if it needs to be rebuilt, the cost would be about $ 185.00 plus freight.

I just spoke with nhspeedometer and they said special testing meters are needed to test the tach out of the car. I told them that with the key on, I was getting 12 volts from the green wire and the red with black strip had about 2 volts. After the motor was running, the red with a black strip would vary from 4.5 volts at about 800 RPM and 7.5 volts at about 3000 RPM. They said that my wiring harness seemed to be OK. I will be boxing up my tach a sending it to them. If it needs rebuilt, their estimate is $ 185.00 plus freight.

I spoke with nhspeedometer today and they told me I could not test my unit without some special meters. They will test the tach for no cost other that the return freight. If they need to rebuild it, the cost is about $ 185.00 plus freight.

My indicator light has a plug from the harness with two wires going to the socket. It is held in a plastic holder and does not go to ground. The ground is one of those two wires coming from the wiring harness. Disconnect yours at the plug and see if you can get your test light to work correctly. If it works correctly at the harness, it's your switch / socket.

:stupid: After I posted and read robin 260's posting, I went back to check my connections. It was as I posted but that is WRONG. I put in a XR 700 module and when I reconnected to the coil, I got it backwards. The Blue wire goes to the negative and the white wire with a black strip goes to the positive. I changed them and the car still starts and the tachometer still goes to 8000 when the key is turned on. Oh well, I'll keep plugging along.

I have a may 74 260 and the hazard indicator light is illuminated when ever the lights are turned on.

my car was built may 74 and is a 260 coupe, it's tach go to 8000 when the key is turned on. I have a posting here and in member's only but still have not found a solution to my problem. Here is what I have found out. There is a company nhspeedometer.com (per another thread) that can repair the old tach or put new internals in the old case. My tach is original and is a three wire plus the four wires to the lights so it has a seven pin connector I get from the dash wiring harness, 12 volts from the green wire, 2 volts from the red with black strip wire, and a good ground from the black wire. I just don't know if that is correct? An old thread I read ( on a 240 ) said their problem was a broken or bad or unconnected wire in the engine compartment. It was the black going to the coil. When I checked my harness at the coil, my black goes to the center terminal of the ballast resistor, the black with a white strip goes to the one side of the ballast resistor,and a black with a green strip and a white with a black strip goes to the other side and then up to the negative of the coil, the final wire at this point is blue and it goes to the positive side of the coil. Is this correct?? The resistor is located on the passengers side just behind and or below the glove box. It's about two and a half inches long in a clear plastic casing. I think these old cars have a lot of these types of problems...that is why these forums are so helpful. I hope this helps you a little and someone reading this can shed some more lite on this whole tach issue. I don't know if I have a tach problem or a problem some where else in the wiring ??

When I turn the key on, the tach goes to 8000 and the car is not running. I removed the tach and I get 12 volt on the green wire in the harness, 2 volts in the red with black strip and continuity to ground in the black, green with white strip ,and red with blue strip. On the tach I get 4000 ohms at the single post to the case and 320 ohms between the dual posts and the black wire show continuity to the case. Is my problem with the tach or some were else in the wiring??

Thanks, I'll try that

Thanks for the information. him30, have you removed the cover that you talked about in the 2004 thread?? I was aware that the gauges go out the back of the dash but I was concerned about the Tach and Speedo.

welcome from Houston Texas

Welcome from another 260 z owner It looks like you have had some experience with the z so you should know what you are getting into.

My dash has a crack between the speedometer and the tach. I was going to put a full face cap on it but was told that if I did that, removal of these instruments in the future would required removal of the cap !!! Can the original dash be repaired in Houston, Texas ??? or is there a better solution to this problem??

When I turn the key to start, the needle on the tach goes to 8000. I just removed the tach to change out the lights and when I checked the contacts, nothing went to ground except the black wire. When I checked the dash wiring, I got 12 volts on the green wire. On the tach, I got 4000 ohms from the single post terminal to it's housing and 320 ohms between the posts of the dual terminals. Is my problem in the wiring harness or the tach??

This proves that... if you hit your head on the wall long enough....somthing will give!!! The answers to this thread are: You must remove the tach and speedometer inorder to replace their light bulbs. All the dash lights are the round pin type EXCEPT the one for the cigaret lighter's light

Thanks Travel'n Man for the speedo....Does anyone have their tach out and can give me that size??

I have a 74 260z with the original 4 speed in it. There is a spacer (about 1/8 "thick) between the transmission and the block.

This thread has been out for a day now so I have to believe that no one has a source for the original sockets. Looking on the Internet, I have found a site AUTOLUMATION.COM that I think could have a socket that I could adapt to the wiring harness. Does anyone have their tach and speedometer out and could give me the hole size for the lights?

The discoloration of the gas sounds like it is old. The new stuff is clear and due to all of the additives it starts changing colors in a month or so. Per my friending that work at the refineries here in Houston. The fuel pump, if it is like mine (1974 260z) has a fuel filter inside the pump. I also have one between the tank and electric pump and finally a last resort in my carbs. Do you 280 z people remember what a carb is ??

:bulb::bulb:Today was to be the day that my old light bulbs in the dash would be replaced. I started with the gauges and that went well...moved to the glove box and console lights..still not many problem, then to the tach. OOPS, the socket's fingers that hold it in came out as three pieces. The bulb was also the flat push type not the round pin type I thought I had. I called z car parts to see if they had this socket and why the bulb set I bought from them did not have the correct type of bulbs??? They said that all the dash bulbs should be round pinned type and they do not sell the socket. So here I am. Does any one have any of these sockets that they want to sell ?? I have answered that life long question and, size does matter. My belly is to big to get under the steering wheel easily and my hands are to large to just reach up under the dash and remove the lights from the speedometer and tach. I got the tach's out because I still have the trim off the dash. Any great ideas for the speedometer ??? I should use one or two of them right now. Thanks