swa240z

Mine are OLD - type 2's

I have a set of triple 40's on my 240z that I'm trying to dial in. I had a low RPM stumble that I cured by moving up in jet size from a 50F9 to a 55F9. In the process of doing swapping idle jets, my idle mix screw is now only about 3/8 of a turn out and I'm having some rough idle issues and richness. I'd like to try an idle jet that is right in between the 50F9 and the 55F9 but I'm not sure which one that would be - maybe a 55F8 or 55F2? I've seen the chart showing the F# order from lean to rich (attached), but I don't know how a 50 series F chart compares to a 55 series F chart. Is there any overlap or is it sequential? BTW, the car runs great off idle. Thanks! Steve

Hey Blue - I can't find that pipette tool you mentioned above. Do you have a link you can post that would point me in the right direction? Thanks! Steve

Hey Blue - I have been working on setting the float levels of my carbs today and just ran across this thread. Great idea!!! One question though, I assume I should use a carb gasket between the carb top and the bowl to simulate the correct height of the floats relative to the carb body? Also, does anyone know how to get a hold of Keith's float level tool? I didn't see it on the website with his other stuff. Thanks! Steve

Chickenman - Thanks for your feedback. Isky sent out new .175" lash pads with the cam. Rocker arms are the original arms that had about 64k miles on them. They looked very clean and showed no noticeable signs of wear. I still haven't heard back from Isky. I called yesterday and was told that Ron was still working on the numbers. If that's the case, then I assume there must be a mistake on the most recent cam card he sent me. If I get some new numbers from Isky, madkaw and I will probably take one more run at dialing in the cam and I'll post the new cam card. If I don't hear something in the next day or so, I'll probably just advance the cam about 2* to make up for the .035" I removed from the head and hope that is close enough to get the engine running good. A dyno run is probably in my future so I can get things dialed in better.

Hey all - thanks for the replies. I'll see if I can get some of your questions answered. I have received two very different L-480 cam cards from Isky - both for a Datsun 6 cylinder L series engine. I have attached both for reference. The card with the writing on it is the most recent one they sent me. I have been working with madkaw on this since he has far more experience dialing in cams than I do, but he is stumped as well. Zed Head is correct in that I don't know if the cam card is wrong or if the cam is wrong. This was supposed to be a regrind of my original cam, but I can't tell if I got back the one I sent them. The markings on the end of the cam indicates that it is a customer supplied cam and the grind date matches the time frame that Isky had my cam according to Ron at Isky. Since my cam gear is adjustable, I have been able to adjust so that the intake was closing at about 36* ATDC (35* ATDC per cam card), but the open was at about 12.5* BTDC (3* ATDC per cam card)- so I'm almost 15* off on the open. Since we were so far off on the open, we didn't try to dial in the close # at this point. Measurements were done with zero lash and .050 valve rise per Ron, but he didn't get specific as to where to take the measurement. The dial indicator is sitting on top of the Isky valve spring retainer since that is about the only "flat" spot to take a measurement from. Zed Head - I guess I could put the engine in before I get this issue figured out, but it sure is a lot easier to do this with the engine on the stand. Chickenman - that is good info from Isky. I did not see that when I was surfing their site. I'll clarify with Ron as to what the proper procedure is for our setup. I'm going to call Ron again today to see if he has figured anything out, but I'd still like to see if there are other versions of the Isky L-480 cam card floating around out there. Thanks again for your help! Steve Isky L-480 Cam Card - Original.pdf DATSUN 6CYL, L-480 109LC - Updated.pdf

All - I just recently had my stock cam reground by Isky to an L480 grind for my '72 240. I received a cam card with the cam but the information on the card was not correct I talked to Ron at Isky and he sent me a different cam card and it appears to be wrong too. Using a degree wheel and a piston stop, I have dialed in my engine for TDC but none of the open and close numbers on the cam card are very close to what we have actually measured. All measurements were taken at .050" valve lift with zero lash. I talked to Ron once again this past Friday and he said he would run some numbers and get right back with me, but I haven't heard back. Normally, this would not be a big deal, but I had .035" shaved off the head (for compression ratio purposes) so I bought a Kameari adjustable cam gear so I could dial the cam back in, but without good numbers, I can't move forward with the engine install. If you have an Isky L480 grind cam in your L24, please share your cam card information and note whether it is a regrind or a new cam. Thanks for your help! Steve

I started looking for a lift after I completed my 30x32 attached garage/shop two years ago. I had the same concerns about the lift being in the way depending on what I was doing. I considered 2 post lifts first, but decided I didn't like the posts being in the middle of the garage AND the lift was not moveable. I thought about the scissor lifts, but like you, realized that the middle of the car would not be accessible. Finally, I looked at 4 post lifts and that is what I settled on. They are more expensive, but depending on how much ceiling room you have, it can actually create more space than you have now. I bought a BendPak HD-9XW (9000 #) along with a rolling jack and casters for the lift. The lift can be moved anywhere in the garage I want it using the casters (even with my Z project on it). I can "park" a car on the lift, raise it up, and park another car under it which gave me an extra parking space. Like I said, it is a more expensive option, but I think you gain more space with a 4 post lift vs. any other type assuming you have the headroom. I have 10' walls, but used scissor trusses for the roof, giving me 13.5 feet to the peak of the ceiling. After two years of owning the lift, I'm very happy I went with a 4 post. No matter what you decide, any lift will be better than laying on your back all of the time. Just make sure the lift you buy has been certified (ALI/ETL). Many of the cheaper lifts are not. Steve