StephenJ

It was vacuum. I replaced the three original vacuum lines going to the white canister and solenoids. Heater turns on, air transfers to the defrost, and air is nice and hot. Thanks for the help.

There were definite splits on the vacuum lines going into the solenoids as well as to the white bottle. I am currently replacing the lines will give 'er a try in a few minutes.

Hello All. The winter here in Oregon is fast approaching and I find that the air will not change from the center exhaust to the defrost. Further the temp will not get warm. Here is what I have: - 76 280z - no leaks in the heater core - plenty of coolant - Original AC works...though doesn't seem as cold as last year (no biggie) - Had replace the heater control valve with a rebuild from The ZMan (original was leaking) When I turn on the air, it comes out the from. When I move the lever to Defrost, the air remains coming out the front. Moving the temp lever to Hot, the air remains coming out the front and does NOT warm up. I see a couple of splits in some of the vacuum lines, which I replace out today. However, I thought the change in air flow was all mechanical. Any thoughts on what it could be prior to tearing everything apart?? Thanks in advance.

Thanks Steve. I imagine you are right to replace it. Would the proper test be to hook up a 9V battery to it with the positive going to green, neg going to black, and jump from yellow to black?

Though a faulty gauge is not altogether urgent, my wife thought it would be good to have it working before our trip to the coast next week. Have just abount finished restoring Zoey (our 76 280Z). When I purchased her, the gauge would work periodically. Now, it just stays all the way to the left. Am looking for help on how to diagnose the issue. Here is what I have done: 1. Replace the fuel sending unit with a new OEM unit. (no help) 2. Removed the gauge and inspected the connections...and also cleaned the points. 3. Connected a 9-volt battery (+ to yellow and - to black). The needle moved slowly to the "E", but not any further. I thought that perhaps that was good...and that there simply was not enough amperage to move it further. 4. Reconnected the gauge and turned key to "On"...moved just a smidge...but not even to the "E". 5. Disconnected the connector at the fuel sender and jumped the black to the yellow wire. Barely to the "E". 5. I get a strong buzz on my craftsman volt/ohm multimeter when testing for continuity from the black ground wire to the frame. 6. Not sure this would be accurate, but checked for voltage on the yellow wire at both the meter and at the sensor connector...there is NO voltage. 7. Checked the fuses...all are good. 8. Spinkled mojo dust and rattled the chicken bones...no help. Any thoughts out there in how to test the gauge? Can I hook up 12vdc to the yellow and ground the black wire...or will that blow the thing? Or should there be voltage at the yellow wire? Looking at the FSM, I see no voltage going there. All other gauges work...except the clock (of course).

Btw - where can I get more information on the Medford show for the 25th?

No apology needed. I took the advise of this awesome group....and works perfect. The doors close well....just a bit tight, but not to tight where I have to slam the door. Wiped the edges of the weatherstrip down with a shot of silicone spray. ...now onto applying sound deadener (Damplifier and Sound Deadener Showdown).

I checked around the other posts...but did not see an answer. I purchased the door weatherstrip from BD. It has the built in welt. Do I need to use adhesive when attaching? The strip looks as if it would pinch onto the metal. Thanks!

Thanks folks. It is a set of three little coils about 1.5 inches long right next to each other. They were not riveted in, rather had two screws holding in. When I say fried, I mean that I melted the housing and crispified the wires where they attach to to coils.

I accidently plug the wrong connector on the fan unit (6 wires) and fried the coil thingy. Any one know what it does? Also, any idea where I can get another one?

Hahahaha. I'm sorry. All I can do is laugh. I've earned the right...with replacing an fixing so many little items. It's almost like fixing up your home, it never ends. It starts out with fixing a heater contrl valve.....and before you know it, you have entire interior of the car ripped out. Honestly though, isn't that part of the fun? Hahahaha.

Just posting a follow up. I place a small flat piece of metal under the spring which extended under the pivoting latch. That straightened it right out. Works perfect now. With the amount of frustration that it brought, I can do nothing but go wild with a simple fix. Thanks again.

I could smell a bit of exhaust in the morning when letting it warm up. I replaced the rear hatch seals.....no more smell.

You have come a long way on your Z Tavel'n Man. The speaker box looks to fit perfectly.

I'm afraid to ask on the LSD side...