Shutdown

ezzzzzzzzzz, Thanks for the advice, I actually just found this 280zx on Craigslist. . http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/2258209238.html Looks pretty decent to me, and hey; It's manual AND the engine is already rebuilt...

Yes, she runs .... Although, you have to push the pedal to the floor to get her to go anywhere, and while driving you can hear *POP*(s) at random. Which leads me to think it's blowby into the crankcase, or it's exhaust gases going passed poorly sealed valves. I'll start this Saturday with a compression test of my own, and a leak down test. Hopefully I don't have to do the bottom end. In this book it says that defective piston rings make a chattering sound that is most noticeable during acceleration. I don't notice any sounds like that while driving, just lack of power and the popping noise. Here's hoping it's not <em>too</em> broken...

Thanks

I recently got my car back from the mechanic, he did a compression test and determined off of my very low 60-60-61-60-62-67 results that I need a new engine, or I should rebuild mine. I live in California, so paying a mechanic to do it is just outrageous (~$85/hr) I've never done anything like this before, but I do have my dad to help me and it would be a fun bonding experience to rebuild the L6 on my Z. I'm all-for rebuilding the engine, but I'm wondering if there is a way I can test whether it's the valves, or whether it's the rings that are leaking. I'm assuming it's the rings, since that's what the mechanic suggested. It's hard for me to grasp exactly how long this will take, how much money in tools and parts it will be, and what else I have to do, that I haven't accounted for. I've done a bit of research and found that I would need to grind the vavles, get new seats, change the rings, get a rimmer and rim the block, as well as hone it. I'd need to mic-test the crankshaft and change the bearings, get the bearing tension correct, buy an engine lift/cherry picker, and a complete gasket kit. Someone said I should "Get my heads done" I'm not certain I know what that means. My budget is about $2,000. My experience fixing cars has been valve-cover gasket replacement and changing my own oil (although, I've never had a car with a bad engine before so I never had the opportunity) The bad: She has 131,086 miles on it, I have no idea how long it will take to repair, 4 weeks? 6 weeks? the interior is pretty gross, and the electrical system has at least two separate families of gremlins living in it, it's an automatic, too which = yuck. I'd like some advice as to where to start with this terrible news from my mechanic. Should I try some "engine restorer snake-oil" first? or would it more worth my time to buy a different (turbo or n/a) 280zx engine from a local wholesaler/ebay. I originally bought this car to drive for only about 10 months, which I would then later buy a car I would keep for a long time. The 280zx is that neo-classic style that no one really appreciates because it's got the 80's styling, Un-like the 240z-280z which is truely a 70's classic car. I'm certain it would be worth fixing if it were the old body style, but there are other 280zx's on craigslist for $900-$1200 with minor problems. I can rebuild the motor, replace the motor, or replace the whole car. Tips/tricks/advice 2cents are appreciated. If I rebuild the motor, or do any major engine work on the car at-all, I'm going to keep it longer than the initial 10 month plan.

Video: http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v661/ShutdownZo6/?action=view&current=popcornmachine280zx.mp4 So last night I went out to Seafoam my 280zx and when I pulled the PCV hose to the brake booster off, the engine died. I plugged the hose with my thumb and started it back up, went to add seafoam and it died before I could. I decided to see if I could get it to stay running by holding down the throttle a bit, which worked. I let go and the engine died. I only have so many hands, so I put the Seafoam away and made a video to get some feedback 1. ) checked the distributer cap for cracks, it looks ok. 2.) I replaced the plugs and wires a week or two ago. 3.) I siphoned out 10 gallons of old gas and replaced it with fresh 91 octane gasoline. I have a new fuel filter I'm going to put in today. I don't have a compression tester, fuel pressure tester so I don't know what the numbers are. In the video, the PCV hose is removed, and I'm keeping the engine running by playing with the throttle. When the hose is connected, it pops less frequently in the intake manifold. My dad is lazy and says "Just take it to a mechanic and throw money at it" but where's the fun in that? I'd like to fix it myself, or at least know if this is beyond a weekend of work. Thanks for your input

Bruce if you're serious, send me a PM with details about covering your "expenses" I hope I don't have to pay for your plane ticket back to Salem, . I'm very interested

I stand corrected!