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ezzzzzzzzzz, Thanks for the advice, I actually just found this 280zx on Craigslist. . http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/2258209238.html Looks pretty decent to me, and hey; It's manual AND the engine is already rebuilt...

Yes, she runs .... Although, you have to push the pedal to the floor to get her to go anywhere, and while driving you can hear *POP*(s) at random. Which leads me to think it's blowby into the crankcase, or it's exhaust gases going passed poorly sealed valves. I'll start this Saturday with a compression test of my own, and a leak down test. Hopefully I don't have to do the bottom end. In this book it says that defective piston rings make a chattering sound that is most noticeable during acceleration. I don't notice any sounds like that while driving, just lack of power and the popping noise. Here's hoping it's not <em>too</em> broken...

Thanks

I recently got my car back from the mechanic, he did a compression test and determined off of my very low 60-60-61-60-62-67 results that I need a new engine, or I should rebuild mine. I live in California, so paying a mechanic to do it is just outrageous (~$85/hr) I've never done anything like this before, but I do have my dad to help me and it would be a fun bonding experience to rebuild the L6 on my Z. I'm all-for rebuilding the engine, but I'm wondering if there is a way I can test whether it's the valves, or whether it's the rings that are leaking. I'm assuming it's the rings, since that's what the mechanic suggested. It's hard for me to grasp exactly how long this will take, how much money in tools and parts it will be, and what else I have to do, that I haven't accounted for. I've done a bit of research and found that I would need to grind the vavles, get new seats, change the rings, get a rimmer and rim the block, as well as hone it. I'd need to mic-test the crankshaft and change the bearings, get the bearing tension correct, buy an engine lift/cherry picker, and a complete gasket kit. Someone said I should "Get my heads done" I'm not certain I know what that means. My budget is about $2,000. My experience fixing cars has been valve-cover gasket replacement and changing my own oil (although, I've never had a car with a bad engine before so I never had the opportunity) The bad: She has 131,086 miles on it, I have no idea how long it will take to repair, 4 weeks? 6 weeks? the interior is pretty gross, and the electrical system has at least two separate families of gremlins living in it, it's an automatic, too which = yuck. I'd like some advice as to where to start with this terrible news from my mechanic. Should I try some "engine restorer snake-oil" first? or would it more worth my time to buy a different (turbo or n/a) 280zx engine from a local wholesaler/ebay. I originally bought this car to drive for only about 10 months, which I would then later buy a car I would keep for a long time. The 280zx is that neo-classic style that no one really appreciates because it's got the 80's styling, Un-like the 240z-280z which is truely a 70's classic car. I'm certain it would be worth fixing if it were the old body style, but there are other 280zx's on craigslist for $900-$1200 with minor problems. I can rebuild the motor, replace the motor, or replace the whole car. Tips/tricks/advice 2cents are appreciated. If I rebuild the motor, or do any major engine work on the car at-all, I'm going to keep it longer than the initial 10 month plan.

Video: http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v661/ShutdownZo6/?action=view&current=popcornmachine280zx.mp4 So last night I went out to Seafoam my 280zx and when I pulled the PCV hose to the brake booster off, the engine died. I plugged the hose with my thumb and started it back up, went to add seafoam and it died before I could. I decided to see if I could get it to stay running by holding down the throttle a bit, which worked. I let go and the engine died. I only have so many hands, so I put the Seafoam away and made a video to get some feedback 1. ) checked the distributer cap for cracks, it looks ok. 2.) I replaced the plugs and wires a week or two ago. 3.) I siphoned out 10 gallons of old gas and replaced it with fresh 91 octane gasoline. I have a new fuel filter I'm going to put in today. I don't have a compression tester, fuel pressure tester so I don't know what the numbers are. In the video, the PCV hose is removed, and I'm keeping the engine running by playing with the throttle. When the hose is connected, it pops less frequently in the intake manifold. My dad is lazy and says "Just take it to a mechanic and throw money at it" but where's the fun in that? I'd like to fix it myself, or at least know if this is beyond a weekend of work. Thanks for your input

Bruce if you're serious, send me a PM with details about covering your "expenses" I hope I don't have to pay for your plane ticket back to Salem, . I'm very interested

I stand corrected!

My 1979 280zx has similar symptoms, I replaced the plugs and wires, I'm going to check the points and timing today. I've read a lot of suggestions to adjust the MAF although I'm not sure if it should be turned to the right or the left. Are you experiencing any backfires into the intake manifold like I am?

Pink slip in hand? Might be worth paying the towing expense to San Jose, CA for the right condition. Parts are parts

Taken from my mobile phone, just some quick snapshots.

The seller didn't know what exact year it was, when I found it on Craigslist it said 1987, I get there and the guy said 1981. The door sticker says 1979. The strange thing is that the car has a turbo emblem on the hatch and it says 280zx, but the engine (as far as I can tell) is N/A. I'll do some research after work and see what I come up with, I'll take some pictures as well

Here's the story. I found a red 1979 Nissan/Datsun 280z on Friday evening, and went to pick it up with my dad on Saturday morning, the car was advertised as $500, runs&drives come take a look. A 20 minute drive to Fremont and I was standing in front of a much cooler car than I remembered 280z's being. I used to own a 1985 Corvette, but it's long since been gone, (spun a bearing and sold it for $2,000.) The seller was an awesome guy about my age, and he told me about the issues with the car... -engine misfires -Rust chunks in some areas of the paint -slow leak in front right tire -no battery -needs a tune up -??? miles because the odometer is 5 digits, and reads 31,000 miles -cracked dash -shoddy ignition cylinder -heater core leaks (Was bypassed to prevent leaking) -antifreeze puddle in passenger side floor -window roller handles broken off and some other misc. things, Anyways I went to buy a battery and had to drive to two different Wal-Marts to get the right one, I didn't have an old battery to turn in so my $67 battery was actually $87. I get the battery back to the guy and the fuel line hose under the hood (9" length) split, so I had to drive to the local Autozone and buy a $2 hose line (mind you, I haven't decided to buy the car yet, I needed to know it ran) came back, he started it and when I drove it around the block I noticed the steering wheel squeaked, and the engine misfired a lot. Also, the spedemoeter and the fuel gage were twitchy (speedometer also shimmied) But I had a good time driving it, so I came back and we wrote up the bill of sale, he told me the pink slip was in the mail or tied up at DMV and that he would help me take care of the title issues. I decided to buy the car and let the seller drive his U-haul away, I went to start the car and the ignition cylinder wouldn't turn.... I kept trying.... and trying.... Then my dad tried... then again.. Finally it started! I was off (worried the engine would stall, so we avoided the highway, and I didn't know if the gas gauge was accurate or not) Drove the car to his work, then had lunch, The next morning I called a locksmith to tear apart the ignition, $180 later he said he had to stop and order a new ignition cylinder. I called AutoZone and found the part for $22, I finished the job myself a few hours later and when I went to finish the job I tried to find the cylinder cover but it was missing, I called the locksmith, and he had it 90 minutes and another trip to Autozone for plugs/wires later (he got lost along the way) He showed up and I finished the ignition, unfortunately it was too dark to do the wires and plugs so I'm finishing that up today after work. So far my $500 car is up to $782, Without DMV registration. I was told the car was smogged about 4 months ago, and last registered around the same time. I'm looking forward to fixing the misfiring engine (the fun stuff is under the hood) If it's not the plugs/wires distributer cap, I found a place locally that will clean the fuel injection system for 50 bucks. So far I'm really enjoying the car. I'll post pictures up after work. Thanks for taking the time to read my first Z story, I'm trying to think of a name for her... -Shutdown