Blue_streak

Im gonna have to back to the hardware store tommorow and hunt down a BSPT plug. Failing that i guess ill just do the connect heater inlet house to heater outlet hose and hope it works Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Watts-1-2-in-Lead-Free-Brass-Square-Head-Plug-LF-A823/202254950/ This is the pipe plug i picked up, for sone reason looks like no link but its there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The next challenge is figuring the water pump inlet. It has the barb that goes to it the. A smaller one comes off it and snakes its way to the intake manifold before finally ending up at the thermostat. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Threads right in to the spot. Found this after some googling. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/113647-deleted-heater-core-how-to-plug-cooling-system/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Im blocking it because my heater core is leaky, my valve is leaky, my transfer between engine bay and behind dash is leaky and i just do not feel like dealing with it when there are more important things to do to get it on the road. I went to homedepot this morning and bought 2 1/2 pipe plugs ill plug up the two areas in the pic and hopefully it eill work. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What size plugs do i use to plug the cylinder head outlet to heater core and heater core to water pump inlet? Im bypassing my heater core and cant seem to find the sizes in any thread. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This the maxima bracket which can be used with the early 280zx caliper I believe Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looking for a bit of help, I'm getting rear disk conversion brackets made based on this diagram I found online. My main question is does any one know how far it needs to be machined down? The bracket has been cut from 1/2 inch steel. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Would this msd module work for this application? http://www.msdignition.com/Products/Ignitions/Circle_Track/Road_Racing/83647_-_HEAT_HEI_Module.aspx Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sweet! That helps a lot actually thank you! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That would be amazing thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok so this mod is not deleting the ballast resistor under the coil and it is using the wires that are currently attached to the stock module Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mine is acting up when warm as well. I was gonna keep my stock dizzy and just swap in the module. I'm using a MSD Blaster 2 coil. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My stock module is not working 100%, also dizzy has 3 wires coming off it. Red, green, brown Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok I guess I'll give it a shot, I'll report back. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The wire diagram link is dead. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don't have the dizzy though, just the matchbox. I figure it must be essentially the same process just wanna make sure before I dive in. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I got a 280zx matchbox style ignition module, my question is when wiring it in can I put it in the stock location using the red wire green wire and black ground wire that go to the stock unit? Is there a wire diagram available for this, I haven't been able to find much info. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Checked the coolant sensor at the sensor, ya 51560 ohms is what it settled at . So that's bad, on the plus side though that ground wire off the afm made all the difference ecu can see it again and it's reading perfectly

Ok, so i found that the wires to my water temp sensor where broken. Fixed them up and the ecu can see it again. Only issue now is the sensor is in the 52000 ohms range, by the table in the efi bible im pretty sure that means its gone bad. Will be replacing that one.

That was my thought, I noticed the ground wire off the afm was not attached, but I don't thing that would stop anything. Oh well, I figure ill test continuity between the afm connector and the ecu and go from there. Grabbed the coolant sensor plugs from my spare engine and they have continuity, so on my way to testing the sensor I'll test the wiring currently on there . Thanks for all the help, honestly I means a lot. I've been trying to get this thing road worthy for a long time.

Ok, so i tested the air temp sensor it self in the AFM, it was 20 Celsius in the garage and the sensor tested as 2520 ohms. So ill look at the wiring next.

Tested bad, according to the FSM was meaning that continuity between pin 20 and body metal was non existent. The mystery wires i reconnected isn't to big of a mystery, its the wire that comes off the ecu connector that goes to slot 1. I didnt measure the thermo time switch these are tests that i only did through the ecu connector. Not good is just what the FSM was saying hence why i said it. Im actually not having a lean issue its running incredibly rich, i was thinking that maybe its over fueling because of the dead sensors. So ill replace those sensors and see what happens. I can find the coolant temp sensor but does anyone no the air temp sensor part number?

First off, I would like to thank everyone in the previouse thread i made that helped greatly with diagnosing and for the most part fixing my EFI issue. The thread can be found http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/fuel-injection-s30/52655-fuel-injector-replacements.html Now on to my new issues and questions. After i replaced my fuel injectors i tested plug 1 on the ecu connector and did not read battery voltage. All the circuits for the injectors checked out ok but pin 1 was just not getting any power. From looking at the color wire diagrams available i was able to figure out that i had my coil wires reversed. Switched them around and still i was not getting battery voltage. Pouring over the diagrams again i noticed a connector under the dash that may of been the culprit, and sure enough when i found it and hooked it up pin 1 started getting voltage again. So it was at this point i tried to start the car, it started for 1 second and died, and i figure it was because the battery in it was dead. So a day on the charger, and battery went back in, tried to start it again and... NOTHING! In fact, now the tach wasn't even working now, and it was before. So i was really confused now, how could something that worked the day before not work and nothing had really changed. So i went back to the coil to see if maybe i missed something there, and then i noticed the ballast resistor(i think that right though i cant seem to find a clear answer on what its called) was really warm. I got out my FSM and started going through all the tests and here are all my results. 1)Throttle Valve Switch:Idle Switch Continuity 2)Throttle Valve Switch:Full Switch Continuity 3)Airflow Meter a)Pin 6 and Pin 8: 220 Ohms b)Pin 7 and Pin 8: 194 Ohms c)Pin 8 and Pin 9: 127 Ohms 4)Air Temp Sensor(Will Replace) Not good 5)Fuel Pump Contacts Continuity 6)Water Temp Sensor(Will Replace) Not Good 7)EFI Relay: Fuel Pump Relay Not Good *This one does not make sense to me for reasons that can be seen at the end of this post 8)Air Regulator and Fuel Pump Continuity 9)Ground Circuit A,B,C,D All have continuity Then i moved on to the Voltmeter Continuity Check 1)Revolution Trigger Signal Battery Voltage 2)Power Line Circuit Battery Voltage 3)Injector and Dropping Resistor A,B,C,D,E,F All Battery Voltage I was going to move on to the next set of tests when i accidentally turned the key to far in the ignition and the car started for 2 seconds before stalling, with out the ecu plugged in. After that happened i just moved on from those last tests and plugged the ecu back in hopped in the car and tried to start it. It started! For the first time in almost 2 years it fired up, only real issue is its running really rich but imagine this is due to the 2 temp sensors being gone. I guess my main question is besides the obvious sensor replacements, whats my next step? Also how did it start with the efi relay testing bad and how did it run without the ecu plugged in? thanks

Quick update i found the connector i missed, hooked it up and.....damn battery is dead. But the car does now pass the test on pin 1 so we shall see.