idoxlr8

I'm going to do some more diagnostics next weekend and I'll let you know if I find something. Thanks again. Dean

I do have 12 volts to the ballast. The only wiring changes were to the interlock system. Have a new coil as well. I'm wondering if the 40 year old transistor box is suspect but the car ran fine before I pulled it down three years ago.

Thanks Steve, I thought so but not sure how to proceed from here. I've eliminated the start button and firewall relay. Any wisdom to share as far as jumping these to get my spark back? I have the starter working by tapping into power off the firewall relay. Any help appreciated. Dean

Could any one tell me if the 74 interlock system also disables ignition? I have the starter working after a bypass but now have no spark. Any linkage between these two? Thanks, Dean

Used the vintage rubber on my car and was very pleased. Very good quality. Had two left side door seals in my kit, called Randy and was taken care of promptly. Tough gig running a niche business like this, people seem to have Walmart price expectations but Rolls Royce quality and service needs.

Did the Harrington bumpers on my 260. Fit great, look great and was a no brainer to fabricate the brackets to replace the boat anchor shock absorbers the car came with originally. Dean

Kind of what I was thinking. I jumped the blue and yellow/black based on what I read on another thread here. I'm open to suggestions.

Thanks Steve. I've ordered a new switch. The thing is 40 years old and the key pulls out in any position, it needs to be replaced anyway. I'll report back when I have the new one installed.

Connected the two wires off the emergency switch and eliminated the interlock relay and corresponding wires. Did a search and found most of the details off the forum. Everything works as it should, the weird thing is it now running the starter in the run and start switch position.

Having issues with a start switch I believe but need some wisdom before I decide to replace it. I've performed the seat belt interlock removal on my 260 by removing and jumping all the appropriate relays but now when my switch is in the ON position the starter engages. Does this sound like a switch issue? It worked fine before I pulled the car off the road, possibly have something simple hooked up incorrectly? Thanks for any input. Dean

Sounds like this one. Was very good.

Konig rewinds, 225/50/15's

Started with an early version small bumper version 260 and tried to retain as much of the essence of the car with a few subtle changes that I always preferred about the 240's. Largest difference being the swap of the late model bumpers to the non shocked early style used on the 70-72 240's. Not a huge adaptation but involved welding the shock holes and new brackets. Put a rear disk brake conversion in place' date=' motor is largely stock with the Webers of course. Tokico shocks and springs, all poly bushings. Dynamat on the floors. Did all the body work and paint myself, huge amount of work but I'm pleased with the results.

Mike, Both the arms and the rods came with the carb kit I got from Peirce manifolds. Not sure what the diameter of the rod is.

Well, after a 3 year leisurely restoration my 260 is almost ready for the road. Mostly details now. Dean

Consider the Harrington group stainless bumpers. I thought about re-chroming mine but after getting quotes similar to yours, decided against it and couldn't be happier with how they look. The purists will poo-poo this approach because they aren't original but they look great and should outlast the car. HTH Dean

Thanks for the reminder of how terrible 1970's TV was.:stupid:

I used Eastwood chassis black and was very happy with how it sprayed and looks. Used SPI epoxy as the base after bead blasting the parts. Not sure what to recommend as far as your situation but I can vouch for the Eastwood product. It's produced by Kirker paints. HTH Dean

Did my whole car with Vintage rubber. Fits great and no drama. Dean

This car is in my back yard so to speak. I've never seen it but something smells fishy to me. That's nutty money for this car no matter what condition it's in. Shill bidders? Dean

Wipe off completely with water and then wipe again with a high quality wax and grease remover before priming.

Messy and you better be sure it's neutralized properly before applying top coats. The heat gun and razor blade thing works like a hot damn. No chemicals and easy cleanup. No dust either.

I'd be using 80 grit if you are using a DA. 120 will take forever to get to bare metal. Good quality epoxies don't need etch primer underneath them. There is nothing that gives a better foundation than epoxy.

With three coats I would strip it back to bare metal. A heat gun and single edge razor blades work great for this. Way less mess than sanding or paint stripper. As mentioned earlier, don't leave it in bare metal for long. Spray epoxy on the bare steel as soon as you can to seal it back up. DA the bare spots with 80 grit to give the epoxy some tooth and you will be able to lay bondo and paint on top of that. Rust spots should be cut out and replaced if you want to do it properly. Laying filler over rusty steel or old filler will bite you in the bum.

Do you know how many times the car has been painted? No need to go to bare metal unless there is dodgy body work or a questionable base to lay sealer and primer on. You will need to establish what kind of base you have before you can make decisions on top coats and procedures. Check out the SPI web site. Lots of great advice on their forum and fantastic products if you haven't bought paint already. I used their epoxy,primer and universal clear on my 260 and was very impressed. Dean