KiileZ

Well guys, I appreciate all your help. I was waiting for my oil pump to show up before I attempted the timing again. It showed up on Friday and I got started on timing Saturday morning. I did everything that was recommended and now it is sitting nicely at 10 degrees timing. I just adjusted the shaft until my the rotor was pointing as close to the #1 electrode as I could get it. Then I adjusted the optical sensor so it was directly over a slot in the shutter. Fired it up and checked timing and now everything is great. It's running pretty good, but my carbs are a bit out of wack now. I attempted to use my color tune, but I have never been able to get that tool to work reliably, so once I finish reupholstering my seats this week I am going to get it out and do some street tuning. Once again, thanks alot guys!

Everyone, thanks a lot for the help! I really appreciate it! I didn't realize there was a light on the ignition to show when the optical sensor was showing true, but that'll be a ton of help to get it setup! I'll let you guys know what progress I make in the next few days. Thanks again!

Right, so I think my plan is going to be readjust the rotor so that it is pointing where the #1 electrode is at TDC and then resetting the optical sensor in the distributor so that it is over one of the gaps in the shutter. When at TDC should the rotor be point directly at the electrode for #1 or should it past or before it?

I did not install it. It replaced the points. It's an xr-3000 by Crane. There is an ignition box, coil and then an optical sensor and shutter in the distributor.

Olay, I think I understand what you are saying. So I have checked the rotor and when at TDC it is a good bit past (CCW) of the #1 electrode. Which is why I chose to move the distributor shaft a tooth. It sounds like I need to move the distributor shaft more in order to get the rotor to line up better with the #1 electrode. I based the shaft position off of a thread I read where it said the position should almost be pointing at the bolt hole at about 11:30, but if that causes my rotor to be in the wrong position then I need to move it until it is positioned where I expect it to be.

I replaced the plug wires. The cap can only go on one way and the cap marks where the number 1 plug wire goes. I thought the exact same thing you did and tried to move all the plug wires one spot, but then the car wouldn't run.

Hello! I don't post here much, mostly just try my best to find the information I need since it's all been posted at one point or another. After doing my research I still can't find the answer to my current dilemma. Background: I have a 72 240z. It's got the original L24 in it with a few simple mods. A cheap exhaust header, electric fuel pump and electronic ignition. I have been slowly cleaning things up and replacing some old and worn parts. I rebuilt my SU carbs last year and when I went to tune them I had some issues with the color tune. Ended up just doing by checking plugs and adjusting. One thing I never messed with was my timing. It always seemed to run pretty good and I just never checked it. I recently did a valves adjustment and just so happened to notice my distributor was set to the fully retarded position. I figured I might need to adjust my carbs since I did the valves and figured I should set the timing up first since that was probably why I struggled to get a good mixture. So that's what I did. My dilemma: I pulled out my old snap-on adjustable timing light and set it to zero and fired the engine up and pointed it at the crank pulley. Didn't see any timing marks at all. I shut the car off rotated the motor until I found them and marked them with a pen. Fired it up again and checked the marks. I noticed the car is running way advanced. Like 70-80 degrees advanced. If I adjust the distributor any more it dies or runs terribly. I read that it could be my balancer is bad so I set my engine to TDC and all of the marks line up. The balancer is on the zero mark at TDC as well as the cam. I did notice the shaft that runs my distributor seemed to be more towards 12 than 11:30 so I pulled the oil pump and moved it one tooth. Now it's worse. My plug wires are correct. The rotor on my distributor looks right. Everything mechanically seems correct, but I have no idea where the timing is. My thoughts: I think it could be a bad balancer maybe, but the marks line up when I am at TDC. I also have an electronic ignition instead of points so it's possible the sensor in the distributor is set incorrectly. I also thought maybe my vacuum advance is not working correctly. Any advice at all would be great. The car used to run pretty good until I decided to fiddle with the timing.

I installed my refreshed tank this past weekend. I've been driving the car each day and so far have not had any issues since. I haven't had a chance to check fuel pressure, but so far so good. I believe the bad pickup was my problem. I have yet to call zcarsource to verify if that's what they found or not.

Should have searched harder before posting lol

I was thinking a hole in the pickup tube in the tank, honestly. That's why I decided to ship my tank off to be refurbished. However, I think I will also spend some more time checking out my fuel pump. I wonder if there is a better aftermarket replacement for the Nikki, I mean other than running an electric pump.

https://zcardepot.com/collections/fuel-pump/products/fuel-pump-mechanical-240z-260z-70-74 This is the pump that I used both times. Sadly, my car didn't have the original Nikki but some aftermarket model. I would have tried to rebuild the Nikki, but seeing as it was just an aftermarket I just replaced it with new. I will attempt to check the seal on the inlet valve and see what happens.

It is a mechanical pump. So at idle it runs out and climbing a hill runs out, but when I am doing 70 down the interstate I have no issues until I pull over and shut it off. The fuel filter is just a glass dorman filter located in the engine bay about a foot from the pump.

So last fall the mechanical fuel pump died on me. I got it back in the garage and bought a new one. It wasn't an original Nikki, but some aftermarket model. I just replaced it with one from ZCarDepot. Then I ordered the same one from ZCarDepot before going on our trip to Deal's Gap just in case. When we got to our cabin my buddy thought maybe my new pump was just bad, and wanted to try and put the spare on to see if it would help and that way when we stopped for gas I wouldn't need to fill the bowls. That didn't change anything. I will attempt to test the pump more thoroughly. It's just strange that it will do it at idle, but doesn't have issues at higher RPMs unless I am going up hills. That's why I was thinking it might be more related to the fuel tank. Another note: This is just a stock L24 with stock SUs.

It seems like it started after I messed with all that stuff, but I bought it in October of last year and didn't really drive it a whole lot until I did the carbs this spring. It never ran very good until I took the carbs apart, but I don't recall it ever really leaving me on the side of the road fixing it either other than when the old fuel pump that was on it stopped working. On a side note, when I did the carbs I used a kit from Zcardepot for gaskets and such. I also replaced the needle jet with the ones that came with the kit. After doing so I saw a post on facebook regarding the needle jets from that kit supposedly being trash. I am stilling using those jets though because they seemed alright.

So most of this year I have been dealing with a fuel issue. I have done so much research and googles just to come up with dead ends and references to threads that don't seem to exist, so I am ready to ask! My 72 240z runs great, when it stays running. I can go out and fire it up no problem let it warm up and it idles pretty good and has good power everywhere. My problem is when I let the car sit at idle for longish periods of time. Say 5-10 minutes or so. I do this when I want to drive the car and I let it warm up in the driveway. Basically, it will start and run good. After a few minutes it dies. The fuel filter is empty and the carb bowls are dry. I can crank on it for a long while and it will eventually start, but it's easier to fill the bowls up. Once the bowls have gas the car fires right back up and no problem. This same problem occurs after I shut it off for short periods of time. I can turn it off to get gas and then when I start it back up and leave the gas station, it will die just minutes down the road. Then I am stuck and have to use my gas can I keep with me to fill the bowls up on the side of the road. Once I do that and take off, it's fine. This same issue also occurred the weekend before last when I went to Deal's Gap and when going uphill for long periods of time it starved and died like 5 times in 11 miles. I have checked my float levels and they seem right. I have had the tank cleaned out, but it still get small particulates in the fuel filter and no place nearby will line or really clean my tank. Believe me, I have called everyone and anyone to fix it. I have replaced the hard lines going from the tank with new stainless lines and all soft lines are new.The fuel pump is new and just this spring completely disassembled my carbs and cleaned everything and replaced all the necessary components. I really feel like my tank is the culprit here. Maybe a pinhole in the pickup? My concern is that if it's full of gas this shouldn't happen, but it does no matter what really. I drove all the way from southern indiana to Deal's Gap and it was absolutely fine on the interstate except when I would stop for gas. I just started preemptively filling the bowls after getting gas so I wasn't stuck on the side of the interstate. I pulled the tank yesterday and am sending it to zcarsource for a refurb. It's expensive, but I am fed up with this. If anyone can shed some light on this, I would much appreciate it! Thanks!

Thanks! I ended up with a set of Rota RKR 15x8 et0. Probably should have gone with 16s since I could hardly find anything that wasn't a track tire in 225/50. Ended up with some Nitto NT450s in 205/55. They are the same height as the 225/50, but just a bit narrower. The Nittos seem to be decent, but this will be my first set so we will see how they do.

I have been working pretty hard on getting the car where I have wanted it. Saturday I snapped a few pics of what I consider close to how I want it. It still needs to be lowered and I hadn't gotten the chance to put the badges back on, but the pics still turned out pretty good.

Price lowered.

I am selling a set of Dan Gurney Victory Mags. They are in pretty good condition. They have a bit of oxidation, but look to be in good shape. They come with Falken Ziex tires. 195/60r14. $300+shipping. Located in Evansville, IN

Yeah, that thing really makes me want to go with the black RKRs over the polished rewinds because I obviously can't afford a set of real watanabes lol. I am not a huge fan of fender flares. @siteunseen You're running 15s right? I was thinking of going a step up to 16s. Any idea on what the biggest sized tires you can run before rubbing? I think I saw 205/55s. Not sure if you have to roll the fender lip or not.

I might go the powder coating route. I know I want to do black bumpers, but I am still on the fence about the trim. If I go with a polished lip on the rewinds then I might keep the polished trim, but if I go with the black rewinds I think I am going to try to black out the trim. Luckily my buddy has a nice powder coating setup and as long as I do all the prep work he will powder them for the cost of the powder. I didn't realize the trim was all stainless. Thanks!

Those would be just what I want, but it looks like they are still on back order, lol. I am the same as you and have the polished trim, so I was going to mask it off and spray that black as well. Also debating on whether to go with the polished lip on the konigs or the satin black. Sizing is a big question too lol. So many choices and plenty of time to figure it out.

I was actually thinking of moving away from the chrome on this. I was thinking of getting a front and rear MSA fiberglass bumpers. I am just a bit worried about their quality and what sort of finish they have on them. Your car is amazing! It has pretty much everything I plan to do to mine. Chin spoiler, fiberglass spoiler, 8 spokes with a chrome lip. Looks great! I hope mine looks half that good.

Yeah, I am hoping to get this thing running good, looking better and then just drive it. I also have a 300zx project I need to get back on. I have been letting it sit while I played with motorcycles, but it's about time I jumped back on it.

I want to paint it back to the orange eventually. I would much prefer blue, but I feel like it would be better off orange. That is something much further down the road. Right now I am just wanting to get everything on it back to the best shape it can be and then the paint will come.