Willoughby Z

Check the vacuum tubing all around the vacuum canister, the mag solenoids and underneath the bracket for the solenoids, the T fiittng for the tubing. I can almost guaranty the tubing is split or not connected properly.

Only on Saturdays and Sundays, sailing the Great Chesapeake Bay! Lately, I've been working the NY/NJ area, so I've been absent from the forum. Thanks to Zed's inquiry, here I am. The car has always had the hot start problem and still does. It also leaks down after a couple of hours. I added a Parker Fittings check valve between the inlet to the rail and the the stock fuel filter, in case the check valve at the pump was ineffective, replaced the FPR, replaced the injectors and cold start valve. In spite of the leak down in pressure, the car always starts with a blip of the key, other than the conditions being textbook for a hot start stumbling, throat clearing few moments. Stock 77 config, with the exception of an aluminum straight flow fuel rail. It's not a Pallnet, mine is round, with barbed fittings, one to the cold start valve.There is a Summit FP gauge threaded into the side. No brackets. I replaced the injectors a year ago (?), purchased from MSA. I believe them to be Bosch- according to the part # on the box but others have said that MSA doesn't do Bosch. Whatever. I'll double-check when I'm home again. The injector mounting blocks are plastic (MSA), they were metal. I trimmed the FI hose on the top of the injectors, down to about an inch, inch and a half, otherwise the gauge on the rail was to close to the underside of the hood. Let's see, what else? 93 octane. Tail pipe shows slightly rich, plug read says otherwise, nice mocha toasty color. 28 mpg last weekend on a cruise up RT 17, Norfolk to Fredericksburg, return trip via I-95., 17 deg BTDC. I do need a valve adjustment. Temp gauge runs a little under midway. I haven't added much, just some some stat data. Cheers to Zed for the efforts. Kris P.S. Here's what I do to to fund WILBY's care-taking...

Anytime! My head swims a bit when the engineering chat gets deep but I can measure with the best of 'em!

I assume the O-rings being discussed come in contact with fuel, so wouldn't any replacement items need to be rated for solvent/fuel?

HybridZ I read somewhere else on the web that Hybrid Z suffered an attack on their server by executable files. They've been rebuilding for a couple of days...

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/wheels-tires-brakes-s30/34288-mystery-71-240z-brake-issue.html

This looks like a very clean and solid candidate on eBay. Auction currently at $3150. Seller has video. Datsun Z Series 240Z | eBay

My first Z had pin stripes added at the dealership by a Trim Brite vendor. He was on the lot the day I came to pick up the car. He had or was about to stripe almost every car there. He did great work and his designs were very subtle and tasteful, IMO, matching designs and colors to the various models. Mine was a double over-under that started as a point at the headlight bucket, increasing in width ( maybe 3/4'?) following the shoulder line and just before turning 90 degrees across the hatch, they crossed each other. The car was that metallic copper and the stripes were a pale green and pale yellow. I loved it. I wish I had photos.

Wait! There's more!... Call now and they'll add the 1960 Datsun 1200 truck!

I, of course, agree. Orange with black details. Making me consider fender mirrors...

Glad to have ya, Shawn!

Maybe there could be an Android/iPhone "app for that". :cheeky:

I bought this one from BAP Geon (locally). This place has good prices. Notice the application chart... GMB 150-1160 Water Pump Rock Auto carries a Japanese brand, Aisin, also aluminum- have one installed on a Honda for many, many miles... RockAuto Parts Catalog

It's not the prices in ads that bother me, going with what zKars wrote. It's the ads themselves- filthy engine bays and interiors ("Restored! Recently refreshed!), misstatements/ignorance (V6!, wrong model), etc...

Wait! There's an alarm for the headlights? Come to think of it, the "Fasten seatbelt" doesn't illuminate either.

"Mr. Watson- come here- I want to see you".

Datsun 240Z/260Z Radiator L24, L26 (To Nov.-'74)

rcb280z- From the website. About> Event Info (paragraph under Extra Goodies) "However, if your car is a continuation model of one built in the older range, then we will accept it. Some examples are the Datsun Z... "

No photos? Didn't happen... :cheeky:

I'm not happy about the confusion caused by the "Shopping by SkimWords" worm, either.

Even IF they chemically treat the streets here, we just wait for good soaking rain to wash it away. She's not a DD but she's driven daily...

Sarah, I'm saying the Rock Auto website lists the ICM for the 260/280Z. No diagrams, pin-outs, sorry. Poking around on the internet, it seems that module works for most of the mid/late 70s Nissans. I've had the issues with the crazy tach and the stumbling, hard to start, etc. and solved it with the ICM. -Kris New Standard LX511 Ignition Control Module 1975 1977 Datsun 280z | eBay

Regarding #3 (jumpy tach)- I vote ignition module. Rock Auto SMP LX511 $108.00

Because you stated that electrical concepts are not your strong suit, start with visual /manual checks related to the fuel pump contacts inside the AFM cover. "When the engine is not running the flap in the AFM is closed and the fuel pump control switch in the AFM is OPEN. When the key is turned from "OFF" to "RUN" there is no continuity through the fuel pump switch in the AFM and the fuel pump should not run. When the key is turned to "START" the engine turns over AND the fuel pump relay closes which starts the fuel pump. As air is sucked past the flap in the AFM it opens and the FUEL PUMP contacts in the AFM close. When the engine starts the air flow through the AFM keeps the fuel pump running because the switch is closed. If the engine stops / stalls the flap in the AFM closes and the fuel pump control switch in the AFM opens thereby shutting off the fuel pump." - Atlantic Z Tech Tips Read, understand and check/adjust TPS: "The TPS is just a switch connected to the TB Valve. It senses when you got the gas pedal tramped (Wide Open Throttle WOT) or when your foot is off the pedal (Idle). The ECU adds more fuel when the TBS says "Go like hell". This extra rich mixture give you more power. The ECU also adds more fuel when your foot is off the gas to make a smoother idle. The TPS also does a fuel cut mode to save gas... if you are going over 3200rpm and take your foot off the gas, the TPS sends an Idle signal and the ECU says "Damn I 'm gonna turn off the fuel if he just lifted his foot off the gas at this speed!... must be the fuzz".... but when the RPM's drop to 2800rpm, it turns the fuel back on.... "must of passed them by now". Note that if the TPS switch gets shorted with water, it The ECU will always thing your foot is off the pedal and go into fuel cut mode. This results in the RPM's brick-walling at ~3000rpm." -Atlantic Z Tech tips