Willoughby Z

Capt.- Probably just as chilly down here (Norfolk) as Philly. Starts fine, well, a little lumpy, but no stalling or pressure on the pedal to stay running WILBY has never had an AAR since I've had her, there's a block-off plate installed by a PO.

Datsun Z Series 2 Door | eBay

A soak in an ultrasonic bath of C-L-R cleaned mine right up.

Lean mixtures can cause sooty plugs, as can a cold range plug. Also a weak ignition.

What's with the toupee? (on the car)

reddatisms: Rare!!! NICE! a must for your restoration

Wow. Wilby has lost a few horse over the years. I can't recall seeing a dealer ad that wasn't f'ed up somehow. Datsun Z Series 280ZX 280 Z | eBay Oh yeah. And the "280ZX starts right up" and it has a "new mass air flow sensor". I know. I'm getting grumpy in my old age. And spending years as a tech writer has ruined me from reading anything for pleasure's sake.

Wife and I were out running errands. We had been spotted by the owner of this sweet '72, who drove around the shopping centers until he found our parked '77 (WILBYZ). As we chatted, a woman stopped her car- background/left- and joined the chat. She and her husband own a 77, also persimmon red. Everyone exchanged contact info and went our separate ways. A good day.

AJ- I, personally, don't have any more info than that which is contained in the Craig's list posting. The news of the theft came to me through a Facebook page and it sickened me in such a way that I reached out to CZCC, being the only way I felt I could help. Your point is well taken. Apparently, a CT club has taken up the cause to publicize this horrifying action. Perhaps that club may be of more assistance in working with the owners to provide more info/photos, etc.

Old shade tree trick: long screwdriver used like a stethoscope- steel tip in contact with any item/area to be examined and the plastic handle against your ear.

Agreed, the fuel pump should not run all the time, if the engine is off, key on or off. If it (pump) is actually direct wired to the battery, then it would run all the time. Literally. Not good. HSL, you have a '77- which I had to find out by reading your profile, btw. The correct operation is: the fuel pump switch is located in the AFM and will energize the fuel relay when the flap counterweight is lifted by air flow, even as little as cranking the engine. As long as there is air flow through the AFM- cranking, running- the fuel pump runs. No air flow? Pump off.

Thanks for that info.

Keep your eyes open for the car or parts. WHITE 1972 Datsun 240Z

This is info from several Z car related FB pages: Owner reports his 1972 240 was stolen from a train station parking lot in Attleboro, MA. Please, everyone, be on the lookout for the car or anyone selling parts. WHITE 1972 Datsun 240Z

Auto Air Conditioning Solutions has all your auto ac need. Vintage AC Systems Give these guys a call. Great service and they were very helpful to me. They carry York kits.

Same deal, just wandering through CL this morning. I don't know the car or the owner, I would be boots on the ground for an interested club member. Kris (757)535-4594 1968 Datsun fairlady roadster 1600

I have nothing to do with this sale and I don't know the owner. This is nearby (to me). If anyone has an interest, I would be willing to give it a look. Kris (757) 535-4594 1972 Nissan Datsun 240z Rare

I recently purchased this evaporator w/ expansion valve. 74 75 76 77 78 Datsun Nissan 260z 280z A C Evaporator Core with Expansion Valve | eBay

If your photo is attempting to illustrate the brass hex, in the near center of the photo (up to 7/1975) ,which is missing the wire, that's the water temp switch. P/N 22120-N4202 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/35873-1976-water-temperature-switch.html

That was rude. If you don't like the music, change the channel.

And just a thought... buy quality parts, and I prefer to buy both the rotor and the cap from the same manufacturer. Perhaps that's just my superstition. Even with that, I do frequent checks after a replacement, looking for damage and I don't hesitate to return them if there's any sign of the rotor tip and the contacts crashing or burning. Assuming the distributor shaft bearing is solid, of course.

If it's a '78 ?- it's EFI. Fan clutch has a viscous coupling (oil). When the clutch oil dries up or leak out, it seizes. Fan clutches are pretty inexpensive. When the fan blade assembly and clutch are off, you can check the play in the water pump flange/shaft. With that stuff out, it's easy to pop the hoses, which are probably toast, and send the radiator out for cleaning, rodding and repair. In my area, it was more cost effective to replace the radiator. So I did it all- water pump, hoses, thermo, belts, radiator and fan clutch. All the parts had one or more issues.

The ICM is a "black box" device. I was having very random issues- rough running, stalling (no start), tach going haywire... Had an electronic tech friend compare a new with the old. No discernable difference. Replaced the old, suspect ICM with new. No problems since.

Do NOT use compressed air! The pressure that builds up can be devastating. If you are lucky enough that the piston releases before some other component explodes, the piston will be a projectile like you have never imagined.

A proper tune-up starts with components and parts in good condition. First, you have to insure that there are no vacuum leaks. Second, that all electrical connections are clean and tight. You're wasting your time to try and perform a tune-up before you have created a stable electro-mechanical baseline.