Willoughby Z

It's a spring (steel). It could have been abused before your ownership, causing stress cracks. IMO, this didn't happen from rust. The pictures suggest lots of surface rust on larger, substantial components, which means that rubber pieces are toast and fasteners will be a bitch to remove. This will very likely be a six-pack of PB Blaster, a torch, wire brush and the acceptance that you'll be facing a "while I'm at it..." 70-78 DATSUN 240Z 260Z 280Z REAR DIFFERENTIAL MOUNT MUSTACHE BAR ""OEM PARTS"" on eBay!

Leon, didn't someone just have this happen to them? - accidently dumped the clutch while revving, or something.

WAG? Slowly, for a mile, cautiously in turns, gentle acceleration, slow braking, of course- no.

Respectfully, get a manual. Look it over to familiarize your self with the procedure. Search the forum for threads related to this repair. Then ask for advice when something needs clarification. I don't want to sound brusk, it's just the best way. It's best to say, "I looked here, here, and here and can't find one..." And, "When the manual says 'x', what does that mean?". The FSM : http://http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html See post #8... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/suspension-steering-s30/37127-77-280z-mustache-bar-removal.html Atlantic Z site: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/moustache/index.html

e-tek: I don't think any supplier has everything. This site list many suppliers and resources, which may prove helpful. Don't forget eBay and this and other owner forums. Datsun Z Car Parts Sources

Sorry, Zed... the link didn't post. Timed Off Timers

Part Number E1220- Timed Off 20 minutes/ 9-30v

Exactly where my '77 operates, with new stock-spec alternator and external VR. If my running voltage, measured at the battery posts with a multimeter was anything less than 14vdc, I'd be worried.

How to install a MSA type II bodykit? - ZDriver.com Fiberglass http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/body-paint-s30/22510-body-kit-help.html

1971 Datsun 240Z

I'm surprised that 5 minutes would be enough. But with a high CFM fan... A perfect world for me, would be to have a circuit with a relay that starts an adjustable timer relay when the ignition turns off. That way, I wouldn't have to remember to set the timer. Maybe an override/kill switch for frequent stops or interrupting the "fan on" cycle after a quick stop. Just some thoughts... BTW, thanks, Zed, for sharing this.

This is very interesting. How long did you set the timer?

"the Americans and the British are identical in all respects except, of course, their language".

All of the mentioned parts were changed six months ago?, and then it sat for six months? Your fuel is toast. Even if not, how do you know it's getting fuel to the filter or even past it to the injectors. Six months of sitting can cause corrosion to connectors.

All of the mentioned parts were changed six months ago?, and then it sat for six months? Your fuel is toast. Even if not, how do you know it's getting fuel to the filter or even past it to the injectors. Six months of sitting can cause corrosion to connectors.

The thing about color representations on uncalibrated computer screens is that it will be different for every viewer. Everyone will perceive colors differently, even on a calibrated monitors. Find a car with that color and judge for yourself. The stripe combo sounds attractive. I, personally, am not partial to bold caliper colors. Sometimes it looks good, other times, meh... In the end, it's your car. Maybe you could find someone to Photoshop your ideas to get a feel for the results.

Overview of L6 Engine Heads I know it's primarily about other export models but it might be helpful. I stash links to everything, ya never know...

This is two solutions, Wade. There's no adverse reaction to mixing salt with vinegar. All you get is... well, salty vinegar. Now, vinegar (acid) and sodium bicarbonate ( alkaline) would get a little fizzy, for sure. The first time I tried this technique was on battery cable ends. It brightened the copper and I'm sure that some etching solution wicked up the strands but so will the neutralizing solution. I've not seen any adverse or accelerated corrosion above the area I soaked- the insulating jacket shows plenty of strands to make that statement. I've done this since then, primarily for soldering and brazing, to achieve a clean, oil free, non-corroded surface that the strands or sloid core wire will wet to get a solid connection. CLR might work but I don't have any on hand and I don't know what's in it. I always have salt, vinegar and bicarb- and bread, wine... Try using ear wax on the belly.

"...wiring connectors are corroded and if you replace them, you have to cut back the wire to find fresh copper or you can't solder or put in new connectors. The solder won't stick to the old wires very well..." -mjr45 Snipping the corroded end of a stranded copper wire maybe be possible when you plenty of length too work with after cutting. Sometimes, often, there's not much to work with or to sacrifice. Here's an effective and safe method to clean wire. A vinegar/salt solution to etch and a baking soda solution to neutralize the acidic/corrosive effects. Any small glass or plastic container will do. I've used old, clean model paint bottles, test tubes, medicine bottles, etc. I've had success with soaking connectors- pins/terminals and all- without removing or replacing anything. I always follow up cleaning and/or soldering with Caig G5 spray to slow down corrosion.

"My own Z is about the only one in regular service as a daily driver in my general area." Not so, m'lady! WILBY Z is driven every day! i guess the south side isn't your general area... "brown and butterscotch,, possibly my all time favorite. call me odd i guess. Mine too, same as my first '77. Sigh...

Dear Santa, I've been really good this year, so I would like to have an OEM electric antenna for a '77- working, with an unbroken mast. Thank you. P.S. And maybe the elves have a passenger side, black sun visor that the little door on the mirror isn't broken. My bride promises she won't check her makeup every time she goes for a ride...

My first "real" job was in the 70's with the Xerox Corp., in a copier refurbishing center. We would disassemble equipement and place circuit boards and other components on rolling baker racks into a booth, where they would be sprayed with high-pressure wands- just like a self-serve car wash- to remove toner, dust oils, etc. Hot water, hot soapy water, rinsed, blow-dry and then sprayed with MEK to removed any toner that had bonded to the boards. Blow-dry and staged for testing and re-use.

Wow. 12 teeth? IMO, something is waaaay off somewhere. Before you trash the AFM, check it out thoroughly. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/calibration/index.html http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/index.html

Thanks for providing additional info, Andrew. My key comes out easily in the "Run" position, as well. I might be only miles from the same failure.

I believe he lives in Denver. mailto:murileemartin@gmail.com