Willoughby Z

I completely (and respectfully) disagree. Your experience, expertise and knowledge- not to mention your significant supportive contributions to Z owners worldwide- give you the credentials to drop an opinion anytime!

Def magnet valve and bracket. Looks like one is missing. One valve provides vacuum to heater/defrost doors and acuators. The other valve works with A/C fast idle.

The Shrader valve holds pressure (if it's any good). The cap just prevents dirt from gumming up the valve. I've removed a cap and heard a little "pssst", indicating a valve leak. The cap, if snug, would hold a little pressure but not much.

Thanks Wade. Valuable advice. There are other cars in the clan that will be needing A/C services soon, I'm considering a tester for leak detection. I've also been locating and pricing all of the components, just in case.

Thanks Greg. I'll look into it. I still have a leak or have developed a new one. It's not at the adapters or at the receiver/drier connections which were the only items that have been disturbed. I know, could be the hoses (original). I may have to go with a total overhaul/replacement of components-updating the expansion valve, etc. A/C systems are a new functional area for me and I research until my eyeballs bleed... I'm learning.

Put your car specs in your signature- model/year. Otherwise, that's the first response you'll get- well, now it would be the second. And I just searched " Pertronix" and got three pages of threads. Pertronix, not Petronix .

Socks on a glossy floor? Kinda like Kammy's World famous maintenance photos wearing flip-flops...

Now, that's funny.

Could be code 110 (persimmon). Hard to say from the photo, computer monitors displaying colors as they do. I like #110 'cuz some people think it's red, others think it's orange. It's both really, depends on available light.

PM sent. Beware when you install. I removed the brass high-side port to clean the threads and put the adapter and port together with thread sealant. After charging, there was a hissing leak when I removed the quick-coupler. I backed the adapter off a quarter turn and stopped the leak. There's no core valve in this adapter, so make sure that the inside shoulder flare of the adapter doesn't impede the the plunger of the port. When I first tightened them together, the valve movement felt okay. Not! When you dry-fit, you'll see what I mean.

Thanks for the tip ZCurves... I almost went that route. But I called a guy, "who knew a guy, who knew a guy..." and ended up at a small old-school auto parts shop who had a huge assortment of A/C fittings, adapters and more important- instant "I know what you need." He tossed a FJC 2604 1/4 -F female HS across the counter for $5.17. I was high-rolling 'til I got home and discovered the can tap that should have been in the loaner service manifold kit was missing. :tapemouth Two hours later, deep vacuum was finished, recharged and chilling at 48 degrees! Thanks again...

I meant to say that the flare surface of the port "is not seating" inside the high side adapter.

I am attempting to vacuum the A/C system after replacing the receiver/drier. The system was previously converted from R12. There is an R134a adapter on the low/suction side port but there is no adapter on the high side port- just the brass cap on an a brass port. The FSM details pulling a deep vacuum first on the gauge manifold low side, then opening the manifold valve to draw a vacuum on the high side. I see two problems. First, without the high-side port adapter, I can't attach the quick-disconnect fitting and follow the FSM procedure. Secondly, I won't be able to read high pressure while charging the system even if I just pull a vacuum from the low side. I've looked all over the internet for the right R12-to-R134a port adapter (high side) and I can't seem to find the right part. I have a handful of adapters from auto parts stores but none will fit properly on the existing R12 port. The adapter on the low side is fine- I did have to replace the valve core (source of a leak) which is why I lost refrigerant and why I replaced the receiver/drier. It's a Hitachi compressor, if that adds anything. the photo shows the two brass ports and the low side adapter. the high side adapter shown only catches a couple of threads or so and the flare surfaces are touching but it is the right thread size/pitch. Any advise or part leads would be appreciated.

http://www.marketworks.com/storefrontprofiles/deluxeSFshop.aspx?sfid=75198&c=421891&search_text=&srch=586539657&page=2

I PMed ZCurves some mp3 files that I recorded with a Zoom H4n handheld audio 4 channel recorder.

I have Yokohama Avid Touring-S (195/70-14). Purchased local but Tire Rack has them for less than $70 and the user rating is 92%. I'm very pleased with them and I drive HARD in sweepers, off-ramps, on-ramps and back country roads. Wet performance is acceptable. The wear has been negligable, considering ho w hard I push them.

I have *.mp3 files of most of these but since the site won't allow uploads of audio file formats...

And string. Graduated cylinder. Paper clip. Find a cigar box to keep all your newly acquired scientic treasures. Make sure you stow your yogurt cup in there...

>Reply> Go Advanced Look to the right of second row of icons in the header of the 'reply' box, hover cursor over the icons- you'll see 'Link', 'Insert image', 'Insert video'... Click Insert image or Insert video, a new box will open to browse your hard-drive for whatever image you're trying to upload or a URL (like Youtube for video).

Capt.- You can take the back cover off. Been there, done that. You'll have to pick at the stuff covering the screws and use a razor around the edge. Nothing goes "sproing!"... BTW, my vane was curved. I don't believe yours or mine is bent from front-fire. I opened mine to find a cause for the vane sticking at WOT. I also think you'll find that if you were to flatten the arc on the lip, the vane won't even move on it's pivot, scraping against the sides of the chamber.

Harbor Freight- $74.99

Awhile back, I recall an owner that fixed some cracks with J-B Weld , he used Silly Putty (that had been pressed onto a good textured area and then cooled in the fridge) as a texture stamp before the epoxy dried. SEM Texture spray and Duplicolor truck bed liner have been used by others with success- spot repair may be problematic at this point.

I'd still like to see answers to very good questions.