Willoughby Z

Maybe you"re right. You could take the first flight at 9am on Saturday, arrive at 12:30, have the seller pick him up at the airport, hit the road and drive 8-10 hours, spend the night and drive another 16-20 hours and save 100 bucks. Or break it up over three days/two nights and save 50. Could be done.

Southwest Airlines- Austin to Burbank= $300. Fuel $400. 3 nights lodging $150. Slim Jims and Yoohoo $20. I saved you $630. Owning a Z? Priceless...

Thanks, Capt'n. You're right about "switch". I misread, "sensor". Carry on.

Jan/77 build: The lines run (metal and rubber) from the thermo housing to a block (heater housing assembly) underneath the AAR which also contain the thermal vacuum valve (controls vacuum between EGR and BCDD).

Sniffle. That's beautiful, man. Sniffle...

Without a WTS, your ECU will think the engine is cold which will enrichen the fuel mixture. Fine for the first few minutes, not so good when the coolant/engine is up to operating temperature, as you will have an overly rich condition. So, to be precise- will the engine run? Yes. Will it run well or efficiently? No.

Choo-choo camaro...

Searching old threads on the subject suggest that painting cast iron drums inhibits cooling, generally an opinion held by racers/track day/ auto-xers,etc., who probably would avoid heavier drums in favor of the steel lined aluminum, which definitely don't benefit from painting. For a normal duty DD, media blasting, stainless steel brushing, degreasing, etc., prior to a quality clear coating job seemed to win out. IMO, sixty bucks per drum seems high, considering my nasty salvage ZX wheels were cleaned, prepped and powder coated for that price- granted a couple of years ago but still...

That's what I'm thinking the posters are going for- A/C is on, compressor engages or is engaged, lever/switch "on" or not. Magnetic solenoid would switch on, raising idle to compensate for compressor drag. The higher idle, in this case, is sounds better because the lower idle speed is probably a bit scratchy to begin with...

Or any non-stock changes to blower?

Welcome to the passion/addiction. And curse those damn drunk deer...

It depends on the prep/skill of the job. I had ZX six-spoke wheels done for $60 each. Finish is like glass.

My experience echoes Sarah's post #3. And I might add that the problem is more frequent, starting in the fall/winter than it is in the summer-lending some weight to seasonal fuel changes. I recently replaced the CSV, injectors, FPR and check valve, in part because the injectors were due and also to chase the pressure leakdown (at rest) that would happen. Opinions regarding the pressure loss varied from, "who cares?", " doesn't matter...", "mine never did it", and that's a problem!". Replacing those parts didn't solve the leakdown and it (leakdown) didn't really matter to funcionality, as the engine always cold-started, fuel pressure at the rail was instant as the starter cranked, so I never needed a switch to create pre-start pressure, as Fast Woman has done. My point is that the "hot start stumble" was much better (or not as bad) after the new parts were installed. I'm no longer frustrated with it, more curious to the solution.

That would be $500,000 !

Plasti Dip offers a rattle can, available in clear. Of course, if the finish of the scuff plate needs to be covered over (by a bed liner coating) vinyl spray may not be what you need.

grantf : sent PM w/link. I have the image on my PC. Tried to send the GIF via PM- no go. Shhhhh... I want to watch this thread. It's gonna go for days.

I just threw up in my mouth a little...

Welcome, Austin. You definitely have a strong heritage of ownership. I'm impressed. As to your '78; does it have a stock power sectional antenna that you would part out? -Kris

1/77 build has backfire relief.

Try the "Search" function using variations of terms for the info to which you you want answers. I guaranty you'll find more threads discussing everything, regarding repairs, suppliers, etc., than you will have time to read!

"Great minds..."

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series-280Z-1977-DATSUN-280Z-FULLY-RESTORED-LIKE-JEWELRY-/250991602438?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item3a7043eb06

All the big box stores are going to sell the same brands, with the exception of AutoZone (house brand=Duralast) Brands like A1 Cardone, Raybestos, Beck-Arnley, Fenco, etc. are everywhere. I believe they will all be reman. units. IMO, comes down to best seller warranty. When it comes time for a front-end overhaul, I'll be going for the caliper overhaul, with replating, as described in this thread... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?42542-Brakes-Restored!-Not-just-rebuilt