Willoughby Z

I was impressed by the engine bay detailing and the overall condition of the car. Mirrors? To each his own, I guess. They wouldn't be my first choice but good mirrors are hard to find- I've been through a couple of models with two 280's and have been unhappy with the functionality (shimmy, reflective quality, etc.) of a pleasing (to me) design. My personal choice would be black. Headers may be SS-seller isn't specific about the mfg., nor are they forthcoming about the exhaust supplier. With consideration to recent threads regarding the 200 hp threshold, I'm skeptical about 240hp (claimed) without dyno sheets to back it up.But it is a dealer and their marketing doesn't seem to be directed to Z enthusiasts, rather to the " I always wanted a Z" buyer who will just accept the claim as it is. If it were my sale, I'd have the entire build/spec sheet presented... Rusty screws, mirrors, and unsubstantiated horsepower claims aside- it is a finely presented car in what appears to be

I noticed that as well and had a similar thought. I mean, I could accept non-rivets but rusty screws? Jeez...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series-280Z-1977-DATSUN-280Z-FULLY-RESTORED-LIKE-JEWELRY-/250948443251?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item3a6db15c73

Please clarify what you were searching for that was unsuccesful.

Thermo time switch is next to CTS (coolant temp switch) at front and below thermostat housing. $75-100 through various suppliers. Have you downloaded FSM?, it's free and a required reading resource.

Every website seems to have some quirk. This site doesn't provide it in your profile, MSA has no provision for adding your member number to your profile when registering... Not whining, just an observation. I completed my order after a phone call to MSA revealed that you have to put your member number in the comment box- not the coupon/promo box. There was no reflection of a 10% discount in the total on the invoice after doing so. We'll see... My order was nearly $600, so 10% will pay the shipping and for the $52. FPR I found online elsewhere.

Arne, Thank you for the quick reply! It didn't occur to me to look in the url address bar.

I have a large order (for me , anyway) pending with MSA. I was told I need a membership number to receive any discount. "Search" has not revealed an answer- or a number. Could someone enlighten me? Thanks.

Oooohhh, polished SS! Now we're talking!

Interesting choice of shifter boot and knob...

Totally agree, I got carried away imagining the options! :tapemouth Still, I vote shiny lip, bronze spokes/hub. And to the point regarding prep? Absolutely blasted, regardless of the process for the final finish.

I, too think about wheel color options, as I have 6-spoke ZX wheels on my '77. They were media blasted and powder coated gloss black by a PO. Sometimes I really admire them, other times I want something different. They look unfinished at times, as if they are plain steelies without hubcaps but there is a look of no-nonsense street machine that goes with the black rubber trim and black pinstripe. I've contemplated minor changes such as having the lips redone in bright sliver powder coat and/or silver in the spoke depressions, combos of gunmetal/back, the body color with black or body color with silver, etc, etc. and as yet, have not decided. As to your car, I could see using bronze or gold with polished or silver lips.. Dark or antique gold, perhaps, not 24K shiny gold. I have seen some unusual layouts with the color on the lip and the spokes polished/silver. Even some triple combos- polished lip, body color at the base of the spokes with gray/silver wires. It's tough to find the balance of car/wheels, with neither overshadowing the other. I came across this link:http://www.daytonwirewheel.com/gallery/customer_wheels.htm Perhaps there is a member that could use photoshop-type software to help play with options. I saw some of that on other car forums when their members had a similar query. I imagine that part of your decision may be determined whether you're planning on DIY or is subbing the work out, what the cost would be. Good luck.

FYI: Only 1/2" and 3/4" diametrical sizes have the same pitch (threads / inch), which is 14. The thread forms are different: NPT is the Sellers (60 degree-flat peaks and valleys) while BPT is the Whitworth (55 degree-rounded).

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?30273-Water-Temperature-Switch-Wiring&highlight=water%20temperature%20switch CTS (coolant temp sensor) on Z Parts, also thermo time sensors. Coolant temp switches on eBay. Perhaps this part number: 22120-N4202

Check valve adjustment, then do a wet compression test. Give a little shot of oil in the plug hole and check the lbs. If the pressure goes up wet, then the rings are losing the pressure. If the pressure is the same wet or dry, then it's a good chance that it needs a valve adjustment/job.

Depends on where the damage is on the gasket. There are passages from block to head. Oil, coolant and cylinders are all separated by the gasket material in the space between the block and head. Gasket damage between oil passage and coolant passage= coolant in oil/ oil in coolant. Gasket damage between cylinder and an oil passage, you get the picture. Valve train problems will allow oil into top of cylinder/ unburnt fuel back up into the head.

Well said.

Jeez, MY '77 has a tweaked LH lens, as well. Any one? Bueller? Bueller?...

Who's Shirley?

I build stainless steel railings for a living. Thank the gods, I've never had to weld anything on the car (knocking on wood) I've never used a stick or MIG unit but I can "Sunday suit" weld with the best. I use TIG (GTAW) exclusively and have used the same Maxstar 140 for nearly nine years on the jobsites. Some days, the amps have to be cranked to the max and the duty cycle pushes 80%. I never have dedicated circuits available, we just try to reduce the other high draw tools on the 30a lines as much as possible- rarely trips the breaker. The Miller just keeps on keepin' on. I'm quick on my torch gas valve and I don't use any more argon than I need to keep the welds clean- an 80 cf cylinder lasts a long time. That Eastwood box looks nice (made by Miller?) at a great price. Particularly bundled with a plasma cutter.

If the muffler is in contact with the frame or body, you will hear rattling or vibrations from the exhaust system transmitted into the cabin. Wherever there is contact with the frame there will be damage to the undercoating. Since can "easily" fix it, you should, IMO.

This is handy for the question: http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/tirecalc.php

removed < redundant>

Sarah, This is from the Virginia State Police website (who are responsible for the state vehicle safety program: REQUIRED OFFICIAL INSPECTION PROCEDURE Each inspection consists of the following items – for further details consult the "Official Inspection Manual": 1. - REMOVE OLD INSPECTION STICKER. 2. - DRIVE VEHICLE INTO INSPECTION LANE. 3. - INSPECT BRAKES FOR: •Worn, damaged or missing parts. •Worn, contaminated or defective linings or drums. •Leaks in system, proper fluid level. •Worn, contaminated or defective disc pads or discs. (NOTE: A minimum of two wheels and drums must be removed from each vehicle at the time of inspection. Consult the official inspection manual for exceptions.) 4. - INSPECT PARKING BRAKE FOR: •Broken or missing parts. •Proper adjustment. •Standard factory equipment or equivalent. I'm aware that the "Official Manual" probably contains greater detail regarding the brake inspection. My motorcycles have always had aftermarket SS braided line and have always passed. Granted, it's a bike shop doing the inspection... I always take my cars to an inspection station where I can observe the process and my experience that they are looking primarily for thin pads, worn drums/rotors, and leaking/damaged components.