Willoughby Z

I had the same problem ("... one or two turns..."). I chased the threads with a tap and used SS M6x1.25. Because I work with SS metric hardware everyday, we very often "roll" the ends of screws and bolts against a flap wheel mounted on a grinder to soften the leading edge, a little dab of anti-seize... Never had trouble with subsequent hardware removal again. An inexpensive tap/die set and set of extractors should be part of any Z owners tool box, IMO.

Well said. I would suggest 'popping' the roof back up, dealing with any creases or paint damage, if there is any. Then if you don't like the results, go for the transplant...

It is close- 17.7-18.5 degrees, measured at the top, within the first 2-3 inches from the top weatherstrip moulding. Pitch begins to increase the farther down the glass due to the arc/radius. I'm not nit-picking, I have tools that measure that stuff...:bulb:

Can't see it. CL posting has expired.

I agree, JL. It was a weak attempt at sarcasm, directed to the "nearly complete". Thinking it through, that description was probably meant to convey that the car is not stripped. It just reminded me of the threads where posters have contributed the text of ads , where people describe an item as "needing a little work", "A/C doesn't work, probably just needs recharge", "won't start, just needs battery", etc. kdm

$200. for a "Nearly complete 240Z"... Such a deal.

http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html Section EE

Yes to renting- AutoZone, Advance or whatever chain is prevalent in your region. Chain stores in this area 'rent' you the tool by selling it to you and credit you when you return it. Steering hub pullers generally have bolt pairs that thread into the hub, so be certain that any kit has the right thread size for your hub. Generic type pullers that have arms with hook/ fingers work. I have collected various types of pullers over the years that are usually interchanchable for different jobs. Use some penetrant before you start. Some advice when using any puller- safety goggles, gloves and stand aside when applying torque, particularly if it starts to require a lot of effort. I have seen pullers come apart violently or the hub suddenly release without warning. Use the nut to capture the hub on the shaft. Can't get much cheaper than this: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Performance-W150-Steering-Wheel-Puller/14698929#Specificationshttp://www.walmart.com/ip/Performance-W150-Steering-Wheel-Puller/14698929#Specifications

No, it doesn't. 'No va', means 'no go'. Nova means 'new'. An astronomical event- a star (latin). Sorry, missed steve's post.

There is a Bap Geon in my neighborhood. Their service and knowledge is great, part availability can be limited, but for the basic stuff they have or can get, prices are very fair. Most of the tune-up stuff is pretty standard- Denso,Bosch, Beck-Arnley,etc. but they stock a lot of made in Japan parts. They have Union Sangyo oil filters, they're blue (like the engine block) and have kanji print.

Sarah, So glad you found the problem (pump). I get anxious hearing about puzzlers that keep a Z off the road. I don't know if mine can be rebuilt or not. I haven't tested it to see if it's operational. All of the hoses and clamps/fitting were attached and sitting in a box. the PO had stripped the OEM fuel rail parts, installed a billet fuel rail with fuel pressure gauge and blocked off the port for the AAR. The connector of the AAR slips off easily, along with the attached coil around the bi-metal strip, probably not normal... I test it soon, see if it works and if it tests out, I'll seal/glue/bond the connector assembly back together ( I have all summer!) Thanks for the offer, though. Goin' to TiderwaterZ show? Kris

My goof, I have plenty of time to R&R my garage find. with yours, maybe the sticking comes from the metal strip inside. Because the connector rotates and can even be pulled off, I can see the end of the rectangular bi-metal strip travels in an arc in a perpendicular rectangular channel in the body. The coil around the bi-metal and the chamber was sooty/varnished. If your connector is tight to the body, then it's probably not sticking mechanically (rubbing in the channel), maybe a good soak would fix it... Nice of you to offer! So the fuel pump was the gremlin to your "Easter on I64" adventure?

Sarah, if he doesn't accept your kind offer, I would be interested, assuming it's compatible with a '77. Some time back, I posted a "what goes here.." kind of post and everyone correctly IDed the AAR was missing. Recently found the old one in a box from the PO, even with fitting, hoses and clamps!. The connector turns and pulls out with the bi-metal strip, probably toast. Gets cold enough on the Bay in winter, I think I would prefer a nice idle on cold days... If I can refurb mine later, I'll pay it forward to someone in need... :bulb:

I removed mine from the firewall. Warmed the tubing very gently with a heat gun to remove the nozzle assembly. Soaked in CLR cleaner to remove the internal corrosion. Tried the methods used by other Posters but poking wire seemed to only remove the clog for awhile. Every time I would "ream" with wire, the nozzles would start to clog again shortly after- three times in as many weeks, regardless of how vigorous I poked the wire through. Haven't had to clean the nozzles in nearly a year. Just don't enlarge the opening or you'll be spraying the cars behind you and empty the supply bottle quickly!

Highly rendered CAD drawings are not necessarily the best choice during the initial development stage of a project. It is often actually faster and better to produce sketches at this stage. If you had the bumpers in hand and made very detailed measurements-height x width x depth from plan/elevation views and radius/arc values, someone (ie: manufacturer) could use AutoCAD to create files. I do this all the time in my job. We take detailed, comprehensive measurements in the field, the info is loaded to a CAD program and the results are sent to the shop for fabrication. Any errors in the finished product are usually from careless or innaccurate measurements.

Bap Geon (possibly others) sells Union Sangyo (C-241) or Nippon, which is blue AND has kanji on one side of the canister

I'm confused...' from auto to manual...' is what you wrote, which says you removed an A/T and have an M/T but you refer to something you read regarding problem conditions with auto transmissions You replaced a manual with an automatic?

I have had similar problems in the past and my case, I found some tweaks (and contact cleaning) to the throttle switch were necessary and it helped. There were still some intermittent fuel pump issues, or so I thought. After verifying good fuel pressure and delivery, I opened up the AFM and found a problem . The spring that catches the counterweight (soft-stop) was missing and the post that holds the spring was missing (broken off). There was evidence of an epoxy, like J-B weld, as if a PO had attempted to fix the post that holds the spring. Obviously it broken off again, as I recently found the piece in film canister with other scrounge hardware. But no spring. In the meantime I had fabricated a solution (drilled/tapped) a small screw with a silicone rubber bush as a sleeve over the screw, to prevent overtravel of the counterweight. The overtravel allowed the attached "pointer" to open the contacts for the fuel pump switch. Recently, the car experienced a condition wher it would start, run for a few seconds, start to stumble, then stall. Eventually I reopened the cover to the AFM and found that the screw/post had loosened, allowing the bumper to shift, again, causing the counterweight pointer/trigger to just barely tickle the fuel pump contact switch. I could hear abnormal sounds from the fuel pump during the stumble/dying stage right before it died. I believe if I had been reading voltage from the FI relay or pump, I might have seen variations, as the fuel pump contacts were right on the "hairy" edge. Not quite closed, not quite open. Repositioned the post, tightened it and no more problem. I'm not saying that you have the same problem, you've had some great support and advice and you should follow it. Some times, the oddest thing can throw you after you have checked and verified the basics.

With that mess? I'm going for "Flying Spaghetti Monster"...

White "smoke" in cold weather is just steam. When gasoline ignites it produces quite a bit of heat. When the fuel ignites it results in carbon dioxide and water vapor. As water vapor cools in the exhaust pipe it forms small droplets that are visible in the form of steam vapor. That's the white "smoke". Once the exaust pipe warms up sufficiently, the exhaust leaving the pipe is still hot enough that the water vapor hasn't formed the droplets and dissipates quickly enough that you don't see the vapor. On the other hand, if it's truly white smoke, with that burnt or hot antifreeze smell, it could be a head gasket, if it's light blue or blue-grey smoke and it doesn't stop when the exhaust pipe warms up, that's oil vapor and a sign of bad rings and/or valve stem seals.

Take a temperature reading of the coolant when fully warmed up. That way, you know what your dash gauge needle position represents.

Take a temperature reading of the coolant when fully warmed up. That way, you know what your dash gauge needle position represents.

My bet is that it's a phony ad. The list of 'what's wrong with this picture?' is so long...

280 uses an Air Flow Meter (AFM). Cleaning it would definitely be in order. There are checks that be done with a multimeter (EFI "bible" or FSM). Use the multi-meter to verify correct resistance operation of the two sensors mounted underneath the thermostat housing. Use the manuals to verify proper operation of the fuel pump. Check vacuum readings. Cold start valve, injectors. Bad information to the ECU would will cause so many issues that it will drive you crazy. Clean every electrical connection/ground you can find and protect them with DeOxit (or equivalent). Good sensors+ good connections+good signals= good beginning for finding the real source of your problems.

Just a thought regarding the intake manifold. I seem to recall that somewhere on this forum or another, that someone filled all of the holes with bolts, welded them, cut them off and then ground down and smoothed everything with a grinder and flap sanding wheel. Sounds like it would be alot of work but I don't know about the availabilty of non-EGR manifolds. Just a thought.