Willoughby Z

I agree with Z train about not starting. I cringed when I read that it had not run in 3 years and someone would try to start it. I pictured bad fuel/rust flowing everywhere. I can imagine wires heating up/shorting from corroded grounds. Stuck rings and valves,etc.,etc. If you got it, for let's say 2k, and less would be better, maybe there would be enough body parts and stuff to sell off to recover your cost.

Is this a sudden onset condition? Have you done anything , service-wise recently? If yes and yes, perhaps something got left in the engine bay, under the dash or near the exhaust. In my opinion, coolant has a "sugary" smell. It would correspond to the heater set to 'hot'. Check/monitor coolant level.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Safari_Rally

There we are... I'm sure as soon as Jason posts a WTB/WTT list, there will be responses. :bulb:

14mm/17mm is correct. I prefer single blade feeler gauges in single increments (others like the stepped blades) Hot intake= .009 loose/ .010 drag/ .011 won't go exhaust= .011 loose/ .012 drag/ .013 won't go Cold: Intake .008 Exhaust .010 Hot: Intake .010 Exhaust .012

He did ask "What did you get it for...?" , not, "what did you get for it...?" Either it way...

I'm also in the "you get what you pay for" camp. Since I don't have both in front of me, I can't compare their quality but as one poster commented, the MSA appears to have metal ends. I believe MSA probably takes great care to locate or commission parts with accurate form/fit/function, hence the higher price. Just a guess, not a promo. In spite of plastic internals, I prefer to have the least amount of plastic possible, particularly on the undercarriage. I find it's a constant struggle to locate parts that are correct, not just "should work" and compare price with the function and the longevity I expect. I juggle the decisions between original (OEM), authentic or upgraded with every purchase.

It' not rocket science to determine if an oil pan is warped or if the bottom of the block has a problem that would prevent a good seal. Use the gasket, that's what it's for. Opinions will vary regarding the use of sealer with or without a gasket. I believe most leaks from new gaskets are from ham fisted techniques - catching the gasket with the pan bolts, uneven tightening, etc. In some applications, a little sealer will hold a gasket in place and insure against shifting/squirming during the pan installation. IMO, you should look for another mechanic...

The clover badge is barely visible in the "Intro..." thread photos. Perhaps better photos for the resident historians to examine. I owned a couple of British cars, always pre-owned, and they always seemed to be adorned with grill badges. Earned and acquired perhaps, other times, a "coolness/hip" factor, like bumper stickers, in my opinion. Had an MG Midget with an North Pole Expedition medallion...

My early 77: rear-facing drain plug

I was was thinking trailer... http://www.easternmarine.com/Bargman-Recessed-Double-Tail-Light-w-Red-Insert-34-84-529-0/

The question was asked four years ago...

Removed left rear interior panel to access power antenna assembly [note to self: order panel pins for those MIA] Removed and disassembled antenna assembly to replace mast and clean and lube while it's opened up. No good. Part from antennaX.com (eBay) is not a correct replacement part. $20 and free shipping should have been a clue that "something that seems too good to be true..." Posted a WTB for a good mast/bad motor assembly and crossing fingers. I know I can buy an aftermarket but... Probably will buy a short mast so I can listen to my OEM AM/FM stereo hi-fi occasionally. Somebody will come through. In the mean time, I can refurb the antenna assembly.

You're welcome. I spend more time on hear than I should admit. Sometimes a bell rings when I read a post and I have a suggestion at my "fingertips". Please let everyone know what you find regarding the rattle. Every little bit helps...

Right now, you have some of the best advisors available from this site, watching over you and providing insight,suggestions and experience. IMO, they are here and responsive to you because you do your homework and you follow instructions (usually). I say usually, because if you don't adjust your valves as your next step, well, I may just stop following this thread! Damn, son! Just go for it! Chris (Jetaway) couldn't have said it better as to why you can't put it off (valve adjust) any longer...

Some punk broke the mast from the power antenna. :mad: Yes, I should have retracted it but I didn't. :stupid: I thought that antennaX (ebay) had the correct replacement mast but it is not correct. I would prefer not to replace the whole unit with an aftermarket. I have an up/down switch on the console and a two wire connector back at the unit. I have only found units with a good motor and no mast, which is what I have. Hopefully someone out there has a unit with a bad motor and a good mast?

Welcome to the club, Jaye. Congratulations! That is one sweet ride. I'm in Virginia, maryland is just up the road. I'll deliver it for you, no problem!

Maybe this... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?34997-Door-Rattle&highlight=window+rattle

Very cool! I'm jealous on many levels...

Score!

Sounds like great and satisfying progress. I enjoy reading your humble and ,yes, informative posts. I have a few suggestions regarding low vacuum as I had a couple of the same issues you have experienced. "no heat"- I only had airflow from the console center vents. No floor or defrost. I found a cut in the line from the magnetic solenoid valves that supplied vacuum to the vacuum diaphragm valve, over the driver-side footwell. I had to remove the solenoid bracket to turn it upside down (passenger wheel well/engine bay) to find the cut. Not that I knew it (cut) was there, I just couldn't see every inch of tubing. Bingo! Flow control! But no heat. A little, for a few minutes as the thermostat opened but it quickly faded. More tracing of vacuum lines. Back to the mag solenoids. I rationalized (with the vac schematics) that I could troubleshoot the mode doors and vacuum valves under the dash by doing some temporary re-plumbing. Guess what? A cut that I missed. Right at the other mag valve. That leak kept the mode door in the "direct airflow over the a/c evaporator core" mode" vs. "direct the airflow over the heater core", which seems to be the default for the vacuum diaphragm valve above the passenger footwell. Hope that helps. Secondly, check your oil fill cap on the top of the valve cover and the fitment of the dipstick. Easy for both, with the engine running, remove the dipstick. Put your thumb over the tube. If your vac gauge reading improves, the rubber on the dipstick isn't providing a good seal. Just removing the dipstick with engine running should change the sound of the engine. With your low vacuum, I wouldn't be surprised if it stalls. Same with the oil cap. Kris

My viewing of the photos suggested some hatch rust but I did think that perhaps my interpretation was incorrect-why show a photo with apparent rust when the ad says,"no rust"? A correction or opinion to the contrary, that the photo showed grime or adhesive residue was helpful. auzziez refered to the car as "sweet" and expressed that he would be surprised if the car were to fetch that price. FastWoman noted that she thought the car was "Nice!" and followed with an opinion that it looked like rust. I'm hard pressed to read "bashing" into any of the first posts (..." used to imply that the criticism of these groups or individuals is excessive, too frequent, uncompromising or inappropriate...). The "bashing" seemed to evolve later.

I love Google... http://ncautoappraisal.com/

thought it was there, myself...

The link shows that in 1970, the "california" blue plates would an appropriate choice, if for instance the buyer/owner had the dealer purchase new plates from the California Division of Motor Vehicles (DMV). Car owners in the States had the option to transfer plates that they own, from a sold or trade-in vehicle. The point is, that it would still be a period correct choice to purchase the black/gold plates available on the site. Some car owners covet thier older plates and have transfered them to many vehicles over the years. There is another site that I will look for that sells reproduction windscreen inspection decals and registration stickers for the plates. Bob Hoyt's Classic Inspection Stickers: http://inspectionsticker.net/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=5&sort=20a&page=4