Willoughby Z

A/C service is not work I'm comfortable doing myself, personally. It takes equipement- manifold gauges,vacuum pump, etc. They are often available from auto stores for rent or loan but I pick my battles carefully. Faced with an inoperative A/C system (77 280) last summer, I elected to have the local Nissan dealer convert from R12 to R134a. The evacuation/recharge was $128 (labor and freon). The conversion kit costs $76 and labor was $84. The icy cold result was really appreciated all last summer. This past weekend was an opportunity to use the A/C but the chill was gone. A neighbor, whose is a pro HVAC tech, took a look for me and is of the opinion that there is a slow leak in the core valves, indicated by a short "hiss" when he removed the protective caps. He said that in his experience, the Schrader valves are the most common leak point and the most overlooked replacement part during an overhaul/conversion/recharge. He also noted that the original reciever/drier was still in place. His personal and professional opinion is that the R/D should always be replaced during a conversion and even if the system has been exposed to atmosphere or a low/no pressure condition. I am going to order a new r/d and valve/cap kit and have the system serviced again. I hope that the dealer will work with me on this, as it appears that perhaps the job was not as comprehensive as it should have been.

My apologies for hijacking the thread, was in my "diagnostic" mode...

Thanks for the clarification! I wanted to be certain that your reference to pigtails was not the electrical connectors/wire leads, which I intend to replace during injector replacement. The boots on mine are shot and I would prefer to find the squeeze-type connectors as an upgrade. I appreciate the reminder to use FI hose clamps. I have a similar problem (cozye) with a "hot start". Car starts easily, runs smooth. After reaching operating temp and the engine is shut down for a short time, the idle is rough, stumbling. I rev it a little, keep it from stalling and within a few minutes, the coughing clears up and the car runs fine. Longer shutdowns 30-45 miinutes or longer, there's no issue. There is a fuel pressure gauge mounted on an after market fuel rail that shows 30-32 psi when running. Pressure disapates after a few hours to zero. I'm assuming bad fuel return check valve or leaky injector(s). I have trouble getting the idle to stabilize from one day to the next. It has never liked 800 rpm, seems to prefer 900-950. Some days, all on it's own it may be 1100-1200 (warmed up), then drop to 1000 between stoplights. Every once and a while when coming to a stop, the idle will drop to 600-700 and I can hear the fuel pump relay clicking(?) and it will stall.

Good morning, I am considering these injectors: can you explain further, regarding the pigtails? Also your comment about the ring-type connectors vs, th clamps? Thanks

OEM: http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsunS30/DatsunFairladyZIndex.aspx And just two of many... Suppliers: http://www.blackdragonauto.com/ http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php

Just 2 cents: My opinion regarding anything that 'looks good'... If you have a problem, then something is NOT good. Clean and protect (anti-corrosion) all electrical connections. Grounds. Terminals. Connectors. Period. Off topic slightly, trying to illustrate my point: If a spec calls for a torque setting on hardware, do it (experience might support some exceptions). My point is, I have a friend who lost a wheel right off the hub. He was puzzled because the lug nuts 'looked OK' after performing a brake pad replacement.

" Does my parachute have to be packed perfectly? Or just look like it's packed correctly to work fine?"

Thanks Arne, I wasn't attemping to make a direct comparison, as much to point bsnedigar to a source, to start his research. Kind of a "let me google that for you..." Appreciate your knowledge, you led me, from a past thread to seek out online sizing tools for wheel/tire combos using bolt/offset, etc.

Sell them? Keep them? Your choice, depends what you want. Some consider whether a wheel is period correct, others could care less. They like what they like. As said previously, they(wheels) were produced in the 80's, Not unusual for a PO to buy new wheels after they have owned a car for awhile, either upgrading from stock or going with the newest bling. Again, your choice. Search Galleries for photos of other car/wheel set-ups and find something that makes you go 'wow!' I have seen those wheels offered for $100. a piece-don't know what they sold for, just what was asked. Enkei still sells them, albeit larger sizes. Maybe they can source/direct retro caps if you decide to keep them. http://enkei.com/enkei92.html I have a '77 and the PO started with stock steels w/hubcaps, mounted since new, surviving 28 years and two other owners and replaced them with Koenig Rewinds, didn't like the look as much as he thought he would, scored some dogged-out ZX OEMs and had them bead blasted and powder coated black. Some people looove 'em. Me? Ehhh. Wish I had Rewinds. So it goes.

I was trying to say "Yeah, what Blue said..." and this as well [previous post]

[photo]-The sensors themselves are mounted directly below thermostat. Check connectors for proper seating (clips), corrosion (accelerated by old/crumbly/broken rubber boots). Stray coolant could have even contaminated AFM connector (bottom) Don't ask how I know this...

Found this on ratsun recently... Seems it happened in January

yeah, it's missing the faceplate...

I commenting with the best intention. For clarification: "sprue" I only offer the correct spelling to help with accurate searches in the future, even though the word, sprue, may not come often, if ever. I found this elsewhere (don't remember..) The restore/repair and plate plastic AND potmetal- http://www.customcoatings.net/index.html

He is re-shaping the radius of the bolt/screw head to a rectangle or a "t" - not the shank. I agree about gnarling a shank to increase resistance to spinning during nut install or removal if you were inserting a threaded rod or headless bolt/screw into blind hole with J-B.

These are from a '77. The car has been repainted by a PO. I can't validate if the decal replacement is accurate and some of the labels maybe repro's. These photos are only of decals, not any of the metal/riveted plats and they are the only ones I can find in the engine bay and glove compartment. I hope this helps. I think it is a great idea to document and develope an archive of placements to assist others in their resto efforts. Again, I'm not suggesting that my photos are proving authentic placement, just showing you what I have...

TOTALLY agree!

We had our first '77 and our son, Jack, was born in '79. I modified the rear deck and added anchors for his car seat. We 'installed' him by opening the hatch and slipping him in like a foot into shoe. The personalized plate:

MY post was a little off topic and referencing the posts about asking vs. getting. A link to a conversion offered at $$$ was included.

Even better. California •Daily City Datsun: •Manteca Datsun: 583 N Main St, Manteca, CA 95336 Now the location of a Ford dealer (from Tech Wiki) Stephen beat me to it!

perhaps a clue... http://www.corporationwiki.com/California/Manteca/manteca-datsun-leasing-company/40220577.aspxerhaps Incorparated 1977 but...

Slightly off topic... Just sayin' http://www.streetsideclassics.com/showcarvideos.php?stock=1430&location=cha&fullname=1975 Datsun 280Z Scarab

Our '77 was purchased from Camino Datsun, Inc. (876 W El Camino Real) Sunnyvale- who later became Sunnyvale Datsun between 4/79 and 7/79 according to my service records. There is thread regarding window stickers and someone posted scans of brochures containing dealer names and locations. Also: http://zhome.com/IZCC/ZRegisters/original.htm

Our '77 joined our family in April last year, coming to us with 110k. We have added 11k since as a DD. Siblings are an Accord, an F150 and a motorcycle. The garage belongs to the bike and the Z, her keys are the first off the hook unless maintenance, bad weather or gear/passenger space necessitates using something else in the "fleet". We agree with driving not storing, as she needs and loves the excersize and attention. Despite her suberb condition, we have no fears in putting her out on the road. We admit to putting some effort into selecting the 'perfect' parking space...

And for those who like numbers: FSM EF-67 18. Fuel rubber hose Tightening torque of fuel hose clamps: ... 0.10 to 0.15 kg-m (0.72 to 1.1 ft-lb)