Willoughby Z

77 280 has EFI. And there is no MAF- it has a Air Flow Meter (AFM).

"It's not the size of the weapon but the fury of the attack..."

Valve adjustment http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/1803105 Valve reference http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/valveadjust/index.html Mechanical valve timing http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/timing/mechtime.html

You're welcome. Just remember to 'pay it forward' by reporting back, helps keep the knowledge base going.

Was the work performed because of this problem? Did it occur after any "adjusting"? I'd still check the AFM. Like I said, it will easy to see if that's the problem. If it isn't , you can move on. No. Carb leaner for fuel systems and brake cleaner for brakes, IMO. Use the FSM to locate the the BCDD and find the hose underneath .

Another thought. The 77 has a fuel pump switch in the AFM that maybe is just getting opened when the counter-weight comes towards the home/rest position on deceleration, momentarily cutting power to the fuel pump. Perhaps not long enough to starve the engine and cause a stall but long enough to lower the RPMs. Easy enough to check... carefully pop the black plastic cover off the AFM and watch the actions of the counter-weight, the rod underneath and the way it interacts with the actuator/ contacts of the fuel switch when revving/idle return.

No. The dash pot has a similar cushioning effect on the throttle linkage but more so to prevent the throttle from slamming shut.

Boost controlled deceleration device. It's located under the throttle body. It can be cleaned internally with carb cleaner. As Robert asked, was there anything else done, other than the AAR being replaced? The AAR throws a little air into the throttle body ( 10 seconds?) when the Cold Start Valve injects fuel- ambient temperature dependent. When it's cold outside, determined by the coolant temp sensor, the CSV injects fuel to enrichen the mixture and the AAR adds extra air for a higher idle. Once the engine/coolant warms up, the idle settles down to the Idle Screw setting.

Could be the BCDD. An emissions device, it would hold the RPMs on throttle-off, then drop the idle.

But you would have had those costs for other cars over the years...

From the center of phillips screw head (upper left photo): 1" horizontal towards the driver fender 1 1/4" down /vertical to top copper line From upper copper line: 1 1/8" horizontal towards driver fender 1 7/8" down/vertical to lower copper line Measurements are centerline. Again, 1977 factory A/C

https://www.wenol-polish.com/wenolred.html Great stuff...

CarPartsManual.com http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunZIndex/tabid/1543/Default.aspx

Very rich color!

Me too. Something isn't right with the suspension, IMO. Wheels aren't sitting right.

We're only a couple of hours away, three orange Z's together would turn a few heads! That is, if you don't mind being seen with a 280...

Excused.

Yet another option at the median price point. http://www.marketworks.com/storefrontprofiles/deluxeSFshop.aspx?sfid=75198&c=421891&search_text=&srch=586539657&page=2AMC

Exactly. I have a friend in San Juan Capistrano that if he had garage space, I'd be all over this. Assuming of course, that a thorough inspection didn't reveal any zombies that have taken up residence - the type so typical in a long sleeping car.

There is, IIRC, a plastic piece that holds a spring and something like a ball bearing or a plunger. Couldn't say exactly because mine was missing the internals to the plastic piece when I opened up the dash/console to check the A/C micro switch. I'm one of those guys that throws every little odd bit and part from anything (I strip appliances, etc.) into a bucket. I found a couple of small springs and a tiny clevis pin that I shortened, rounded the end, and smoothed down the diameter of the head so as to fit into the housing- picture a very small bullet in a casinginserted into the chamber/housing followed by a spring- with just the right size of spring length to push the nose into the detent of the lever. I know, I know. I could have searched for someone parting out a car. Sometimes the MacGyver in me takes over. And it was free. BTW, I replaced my vacuum lines with w/w tubing. I went to Grainger and poked through their stock 'till I found the right size.

Unless the mode door "dash pot" is failing intermittently, you still have a leak in a vacuum hose. I had the same problem with the defrost setting (air flow from the center vent only). I found a tiny split at the magnetic solenoid valves- underneath the bracket. Then the defrost would quit again and I would find another hose with a split, trim the end, mode door worked. Then it would stop working and I'd find another split. Again and again. Rubber seemed supple but obviously was drying out and failing. Replaced everything vac line under the hood. There is a plastic "T" between the valves that is fragile and may have a crack. I have also had a check valve fail. The leak may be up under the dash, especially since you were in there replacing the core. It's possible that the selector valve (behind the center vent) is leaking- there's a write-up for refurb/repair. The small leaks weren't enough to affect the idle and a large leak would cause the idle to drop and roughen, I would think. BTW, welcome to the best car club on the internet! Check my signature for xenon's site to download the FSM, very useful diagrams for the HVAC system. I nearly had them memorized while chasing my AC/ heater/ vent issues.

Jeez, Leon! What's it only 5-600 miles? Us easterners are the only one's that can use that excuse!

http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/2869332063.html

Yes, if you mean Super Lube Silicone Hi-Dielectric grease.