Willoughby Z

Happy smoke. The smell of Z exhaust in the morning.

@HS30-H> I yield that the use of word "merge" was/is not entirely exact. Nippon Sangyo acquired/purchased DAT Motors and with other corporate "blending", entered the automotive market. And yes, people say "Datsun this" and "Datsun that". And, correct or not, enthusiasts of USA brands usually reference changes and decisions by the marque or division, rather than the parent manufacturer.-Chevrolet vs. GM or Dodge vs. Chrysler. The core of the point that I was attempting to put forward was that Nissan wasn't leading with a sacrificial name but distancing new products from themselves in an expanding market from perceived post-war prejudices- a point on which we seem to agree somewhat. "And now people still don't understand. The decision to bring the 'Datsun' brand back for some export markets is for entirely different reasons than it was used in export markets in the first place. There's no direct connection." Other than FastWoman's comment (repeating an oft- said theory) I must be missing where any posters were connecting any purpose, with similarities or not, to choosing "Datsun" as a brand name with their recent announcement to market in third-world countries. I also feel that they have missed the benefit of brand loyalty. Lessons of past generations seem to be lost on future generations.

Search> GM HEI upgrade

IMO, Nissan- who had merged with Datsun- felt that there was more recognition of the Datsun brand name as it had world-wide acceptance from partnerships or alliances, whatever the deals may have been with Ford, Austin and others. Nissan built trucks for the military during WWll. Datsun seemed to have returned to their automotive roots, post-war. Don't forget the Maxima/Altima era, with circle-bar badges, "Datsun by Nissan".

Rock Auto has 'em for less than $140.

Most of the pages won't load (as Zed said), however, the one page of the website that seems to display refers to a mild upgrade/rebuild, just up the scale from overhaul and just under some serious power work-ups. "Street 2.8liter setup is for an entry level enthusiasts, most ideal for those who want a bit more power than the stock engine, or who are in need of an engine overhaul, and want to upgrade a few things. Nothing secret about this, this is basically a high-compression 2.8 liter setup with a street cam and valve train. L28 block (or overbore L24 block), L28 crankshaft, flat top pistons, slightly milled cylinder head with our street cam & valve train to give it a bit more punch. Perfect for daily driver, street/show car, auto X, light road racing. Price range appx $2000- $3000"

This looks like rubber-only w/rivets but they're not cheap... http://www.datsunlandsocal.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=DS&Screen=PROD&Category_Code=240ZWeatherSeals&Product_Code=D001

Top of the page> Settings> My Settings> Avatar>Custom avatar> Browse 150x150 pixels or 488kb (whichever is smaller) Assuming you found all that?

Hi Paul, and welcome! Spent 16 years in Chicagoland, McHenry Co., still have family there. Moved East, found my '77 on the internet up in Madison. Flew out, made a deal and drove her home the long way 'round-1100 miles vs. 700+. Look forward to reading the blog and hearing about your future adventures.

Welcome Gil A few childhood summers in Grant's Pass... And some amazing adventures with an '81 Yamaha XS100 Special (inline four!) Kris

This thread is five years old.

Well done, FW! I was waiting for someone to catch that ridiculous sales line...

It's not on ebay... And I imagine it will start a discussion... But if it's still inappropriate for this sub-forum, I apologize. Very sweet car. But nearly seventy large? Wow. http://classiccars.com/listing-161938/1978-datsun-280z-for-sale-in-salinas-california-93906.html

It's a slotted Schrader valve cap that can also be used as a valve core removal tool. Being mounted on the spare, it's handy because it will always be available in an emergency, like having been pranked.

Just from skimming the parts manuals, there appear to be 3-4 different tanks, changing even mid-production, for those two models- and straps to match each tank. If the tank you are installing has form/fit/function with hoses and such, maybe you just need the strap pair/hardware for that tank, assuming the mounting points for the old straps will work for the <new> straps.

EFI "bible": http://www.4moores.com/280z/files/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf Factory Service Manual (FSM): http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html

If there is enough bolt protruding from the head, I prefer the double-nut method (as in: jam nut). Penetrant, gentle heat, a little in, a little out.... More soaking, heat, back and forth. Zen movements. Be the bolt. I'm not sure the valve cover is the best choice for a drill guide. I have flat filed/ground the top of a broken bolt. Using a bushing or something similar held with vise-grips, drilled just enough to create a little cone to center a smaller bit to start an extractor bit. But my favorite is the nuts-as-bolt-head method, if you can.

Classified Parts Swapping Misc.

Definitely not a carb problem, unless the EFI has been removed and replaced with carberators -it's a '77, right? Could be an AFM problem- weak carbon track under the wiper contact at that RPM/vane position- causing a very minor rich/lean condition. I've had this happen. Check the throttle position switch. Corroded contacts, misadjusted...

Hmmm. My '77 has "cut-outs" or a notch at the rear corner for inspection lid(s). Black Dragon lists a pn for left and one for right, all years 70-78, as does carpartsmanual.com.

This is the upgrade connector: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SRC19 This info for doing the upgrade from external (w/ VR) to alt./ internal regulation. http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/280Alt.html

You're welcome. Just remember, measure twice/ thrice, drill and tap once!

No, you only need one regulator for voltage. OEM set-up was an alternator with a fender-mounted voltage regulator (external), meaning, not part of the alternator. You can replace an alternator with an internal regulator (meaning the regulation is part of the circuitry) but you must bypass the stock/OEM fender-mounted voltage regulator. MSA link:http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SEIC03A Yeah, what Zed said... I type slow

I have an after-market round aluminum fuel rail and these are the dimensions: 1-9/16" from the front end to the #1 fitting, *spacing is center-line* 2-3/8" between #1 and #2, 3-3/4" between #2 and #3, 5-3/8" between #3 and #4, 3-3/4" between #4 and #5, 2-3/8" between #5 and #6, 1-9/16 to the end at the firewall. The cold start valve fitting is between #2 and #3, opposite the injector fittings at approx. 60 deg, and there is a fitting for a Summit Racing lquid-filled fuel pressure gauge near the front throttle rod bearing tower (near the dash pot) mounted slightly upward, easily read while standing at the driver-side fender.

The VHB (very high bond) tape spreads the stress load over the length of the joint, less likelihood of cracks at the fastener locations.