Willoughby Z

Search: door weatherstrip

Or this: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?36466-Brake-and-Fuel-line-insulator-construction&highlight=hard+line+rubber

Car Parts Manual shows "optional-A/C" for the '77, as well as for the L26.

Well done!

If you don't have this, it will help with both issues (radio and fuel pump). Fuel Injection "bible" http://www.4moores.com/280z/files/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf

The 77's have a fuel pump switch in the AFM, with the contacts controlled by an arm attached to the counter-weight. When the engine is stopped (no air flow), vane/counter-weight is in the "home" position and the contacts are held open (pump off). Key "on" powers the switch. Starter running turns engine, creates suction/air flow through the AFM, rotates the vane/counterweight which swings the arm away from the switch, allowing the contacts to close which turns on the fuel pump. Sooo, you shouldn't hear the fuel pump running just by turning the key to "On". The pump should only run with the starter engaged and/or engine running.

If you disconnect a vacuum line and it is sucking air, it needs to be plugged. Curious, why are you removing vacuum lines? Where is your aftermarket sensor connected? How is it connected?

And toll booths, parking lot attendants, etc. Passengers tend to be a little freaked out but they can help with the passing/lane changes- if you trust their judgement!

here ya go Capt... >LINK CHANGED BY MODERATOR Sept 2012< >Corrected file attached.< ===== See this thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13131&p=410424#post410424 E Scanlon Moderator F77ZCAR-WIRING[Edited].pdf

Nice pun, Zed. It's a long read but... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?37900-Electronic-ignition-Revisited-after-I-gave-up!&highlight=msd+blaster+coil

Try here- bunch of stuff... http://www.shopping.com/car-audio-and-video-accessories/distribution-block+stinger/products?KW=distribution+block Or this? http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/p4125_MANL_Fuse_Block_4_Position_Chrome.html

FastWoman explains why in the linked thread: "Anyway, that's the solution I propose: I'm going to put a resistor in series with the temp sensor to richen the mixture. I'm going to try a more refined approach than simply splicing a fixed resistor into the wiring harness. Instead I'm going to install a mixture tuning potentiometer directly inside the ECU housing, provided there's some good place to mount it. Before finalizing the mount, though, I think I'll run a couple of loose wires into the cabin of the car, so that I can play with mixture with the car in motion. I'll have my lovely assistant drive my car down the freeway, with her foot blocked against the transmission tunnel to keep a constant throttle opening, and then I'll tweak the mix to achieve the maxiumum speed. I'll note the resistance, and then set that value when I mount the pot back inside the ECU. Further tuning will be done on the basis of plug readings and mileage calculations. BTW, I've also re-thought where to situate the series potentiometer. I think I'll put a little Molex pigtail connector on the ECU harness and make a little 20-turn potentiometer/plug doodad (incased in epoxy?) to plug into it. Then I'll make an extension cord that will allow me to make adjustments from a seated position (passenger or driver) as the car is moving. Once the correct calibrations have been determined, I'll remove the extension cord, save it in my "special tools" box, and have it available for future "while-driving" tune-ups."

"The years passed, mankind became stupider at a frightening rate. Some had high hopes that genetic engineering would correct this trend in evolution, but sadly the greatest minds and resources were focused on conquering hair loss and prolonging erections."

My first ''77 5-speed had a badge on the rear hatch.

Here's a possible source... http://www.vintageconnections.com/

Shame on you Leon. Everyone knows that there is no flux capacitor in a '77. They weren't installed until the ZX model years.

Pardon my poor manners... Welcome!

I suggest describing wiring colors that you DO have. Could be that PO could have replaced OE tach and hacked it. Tach relates to coil, etc. Look around for splices, bastard wiring/extraneous wires. Detailed and informative questions will yield detailed and helpful answers/suggestions.

"Give a man a fish and he will eat for a day. Teach a man to fish and he will eat for a lifetime." "An nothing wrong with writing style just the way we do it here." Then perhaps someone from "there" maybe willing to solve your problems.

Apparently it's phonetic. D's everywhere else. "an(d)"

You're welcome. I also found the JDM site. Figured I would just give you the pole and tackle and let you bait and cast. Good luck.

Looks like #14? ASSY-CONNECTOR WATER 27190-N3100 http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsunS30/DatsunZIndex/Electrical/CarHeater/FromAug73/tabid/1667/Default.aspx Google that PN, if you think it's the right one...

Yup. Brand new Bosch injectors Brand new CSI (NAPA-mfg unknown) Brand new FPR (Beck-Arnley) '78 single port- installed exit of rail Parker Fittings industrial liquid/gas check valve- 2600psi max pressure/ 3 psi crack pressure- installed exit of fuel filter. I'm thinking that I can open the line between check valve and fuel filter after shut-down to verify that fuel is, in fact held by the check valve. second test, assuming check valve is good, removing hose from exit port of the FPR to verify that the diaphragm is seating and not allowing fuel to go back to the tank. Or just remove the check valve and FPR and pressure test them (in the direction of flow for the FPR and back-flow direction for the check valve), ie. Mighty-Vac, and see if they hold pressure. If those two items work properly then fuel has to be leaking through new injectors/ new CSI.

I will add that Blue is correct regarding keeping the drill/ bit straight without exherting any side load. Using too much pressure and cocking the angle will snap bits all day long, regardless of speed or lubricant.