awolfe

Hi All, Wanting to get a rotisserie and was looking for some recommendations. I'm currently considering this one; http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Rotisserie-CR-3000-COMBO-KIT-LOWEST-PRICE-ON-EBAY-CANT-BEAT-THIS-DEAL-/291723145583?hash=item43ec0df16f:g:QIoAAOSwYlJW2x8D&item=291723145583&vxp=mtr Any advise on the subject would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the replies!! It's hard to tell by the picture, but the first 5 to 6 threads are pretty much gone. Come to find out it was a SAE nut that was forced on (been finding that same issue all over the car). Guess I'll start off with trying to rethread it, or even try going down to a M8 x 1.5........ If all else fails....I'll be giving you a shout!! Thanks

Does anyone know if it is possible to replace the studs on the rear strut mount? P.O. stripped one out when he installed his POS homemade strut brace.

Either way, the strut was bolted in the same spot it would have been if the holes had not been extended. To be honest, I don't think the PO had any working knowledge for what you all are suggesting. Given all that i have encountered with this Z over the past 2 years, he had to be less than a shade tree mechanic.

Thanks for the quick response....I figured it would be a time consuming issue. The adjustable camber plates look to be a possible solution also. Anyone out there care to comment on the performance? I would like to hear the good and bad before deciding. Thanks!

After removing front strut assembly, I found this..... The oversized washers should have been a clue to what i'd find. My guess is that he was trying to replace the struts without removing the entire assembly. Does anyone have any suggestions (preferably cheap) on how to fix this?

Has this book been helpful? I have seen it many times before, but have been reluctant to buy. I rebuilt mine using the Haynes, Chiltons, and 1978 Datsun Service Manual. I happened to luck out on ebay one day and picked up the 78, 79, & 82 service manuals in great condition, Cost me $23.50 and $16 for shipping..Total of $39.50 for all three books ...

Thanks for the advise! I remember reading that thred once before,..... lots of great advise spread all over this site....

This being my first complete rebuild, I'm looking for any advice before i crank this baby up for the first time..... I do have a small, very slow drip from the oil pump (pressure regulator valve bolt) that i have to correct, Is it as simple as changing the washer?

Thanks for the quick reply, I was just concerned that it would have an adverse effect since the tensioner was controlled by oil pressure along with the spring.

Does anyone know where to get the gasket for the timing chain tensioner? I purchased a complete timing kit, but to my surprise there was not one included. I have search many different Z parts sites but still have not had any luck finding one. Would using Form-A-Gasket be an acceptable alternative?

In the moderators queue for upload to the downloads page.

Thanks for the info!!!! It'll give me something to work on this weekend

This is not as nice as the one done for the '77 280z's, but i got tired of following the black & white lines........ It's just a quick overlay using photoshop........Hope it's benefical, ENJOY!!!!!!! Upload is PDF, pm me if you want the photoshop file. 1978 Color Wiring Diagram.pdf

A little off subject, but what is the trick to getting the lock cylinder out of the ignition? I tried for days before finally giving up..

Found this picture while i was surfing the net, thought everyone would get a kick outta it. Enjoy

No, the engine was not smoking or burning oil prior to the crack. I will not know the full condition of the rings, etc...until i get it completely torn down. I'm still not sure how the head cracked....One day its running fine, and the next there was antifreeze in the oil pan. After pulling the head, i found the cracks coming from the #3 & #4 exhaust port. My guess is they were compression cracks from where the P.O. installed new valve seats himself. Sounds like my best option is to go ahead and have a machinist take a look. If all else fails, i have an entire spare engine in the garage i can rebuild. Thanks for the advice

I recently pulled my engine & tranny to do a rebuild due to a cracked head. Upon close inspection of the cylinder walls i found a slight groove in the #4 cylinder. My Questions is..... Should i take the block to be bored or will honing correct this issue? The engine turns smoothly and does not seem to be catching on anything.

That would be greatly appreciated!!! Just PM me a $$$ amount for the clips and dust boots when your conversion is completed......

What sucks more is the fact that i actually have a '77 280z, but the P.O. had replaced the original rear drum assembly with ones from a '76. Those retaining shims seem to be the only part i can't find anywhere. I would consider replacing them back to the original year make, but other than the one missing shim & dust cover they are in pretty good shape.

Thanks, Its worth a shot...

Does anyone know where i can buy a set of retaining shims and dust boot for the '73-'76 style wheel cylinders?

BTW, Thanks for all the help Guys! I really appreciate all the advice and help everyone has givin me since I've join this forum. And many thanks to you Philip, for taking the time to share all your great Knowledge about the Z cars. It has been most helpful to a newcomer like me.

I have an entire spare engine that came with my '78 280z that I'm gonna check the condition of the head on wednesday. If it is not worth using i will definitely be interested in buying yours. If you could, in the mean time, check the shipping rates to 30547 and let me know. Thanks