awolfe

I recently removed the head from my '77 280z because of a leaking head gasket. After reading the post "Check head for cracks" http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/h...head/index.htm, i decided to further inspect the head and found two cracks on cylinder 3 & 4. Basically, what i'm asking is...What are my options with this issue? Time to replace the head? Thanks in advance for any advice!

I agree with Sarah, I purchased a '77 280z where the PO did a complete hack job with the wiring. It took me about a week or so to straighten everything out, but with the help of the available wiring diagrams and the awesome Z Club members it was not hard at all.......and i had no previous experience. At most, your gonna need some patients.

I'm a little confused about a section of the L28 motor, I currently own a '77 & '78 280z (just bought in very nice condition). I know there are slight differences between the two years, but have found multiple FSM's for both years showing 2 different variations. Can anyone tell me which one is the correct setup for both years? Thanks Diagram1.pdf Diagram2.pdf

Which Led bulbs did you use?

Found my problem, red/blue wire was not properly grounded.

Thanks for the tip, will try it out on wednesday.

Can anyone confirm these bulbs work in the gauges? I found a post on another site saying they were a good replacement. http://bulbster.com/lightbulbs/eiko-a72-48002-p-3002.html and/or can someone direct me to the correct LED gauge lights from Superbrightleds.com

Is that meeting open to anyone? If so, where would I find the Info? Edit: Just noticed/followed link @ bottom of you post.

Anyone have any idea's as to why my guage lights are not working? I checked both the green/white and red/blue wires and both have power, tail lights and parking lights all come on, and bulbs are not blown. They were working about a week or so ago, and now nothing. I have a '77 280Z.

I'm sorry, here is a picture of the connector type that i was refering to. I can find the replacement male & female flat terminal connectors, but can't find the male or female replacement of these.

The green wire was my problem, Everything double checked and fired up. Alternator output ~14.5V. Runs 10x's smoother. Thanks for all the help!!

I did have a loose connection on the ground @ the ignition relay. Thanks for all the advice. Everything is running great, alternator output is ~14.5V now that i fixed the crossed green wires. I've noticed several loose connection throughout the car (constantly having to wiggle wires to get lights and others to come on), Any thoughts on fixing these cause they are old japan style bullet connectors? I've been to one site, but all they offer are the flat style.

I have the downloaded FSM. I know the battery & cables are fine, It started fine until i fixed the two green wires from C-5 and C-6 (had them crossed) after that all i get is the click.

Ok, So just a couple of days ago i could turn the key and my car would start right up. Now, when i turn the key all i get is a clicking sound from the passenger side floor board. Could this be the ignition relay? How/What would be the best way to check? What else would cause this problem?

Ok, so i could not wait til my next day off and dove into the wiring this morning. I did find one green wire that is connected to the lamp light on voltage gauge crossed with the drivers side seat belt switch. Got that fixed, charge light comes on with key turned. I have not tried to start the car yet til i am 100% sure all other wires are correct. I am finding that many of the old harness connectors have shorts and have to be wiggled to get proper connect. Has any one else had this problem? If so, how did you solve? I have looking for OE style replacement connectors, but have had no luck. Would you suggest cutting out connectors and replacing with single terminal connections? (Refering to connectors like C-1, C-5, C-6, and even headlight combo switch)

Yeah, thats the setup i used when i got the car and it worked like a charm. After looking at the diagram i realized that i tested the yellow wire thinking it was the lamp. I was having problems with the headlights shorting out and heater motor not working, so thats when i started tracing and rewiring under the dash. I have noticed that the gauge lights are no longer working, so maybe i got a wire or two crossed with each other. I guess I'll be back to the floor board on my next day off to go through the wires again. Thanks for the help.

Can this be confirmed? Cause my L wire is getting battery (12+V) voltage, not sure where from? I got the same results with the new alternator as with the old. I have to be missing something, most of the wiring i changed went to headlights, heater, turnsignal, hazzard, etc...(under the dash). I did though take all the wires that were cut, twisted, & taped coming in from the engine compartment and changed them to butt connectors. Any thoughts would be helpful. Here is the wiring diagram that I have been using. 77_ZCAR-WIRING.pdf

Took alternator to advanced auto for testing, they said it was bad. Picked up a new one and gonna double check ever wire before connecting. Cross my fingers its just a bad alternator. Considering none of the wiring was done in the engine compartment and just under the dash I should be fine, Right? BTW, You guys and gals rock with your fast responses!!!

I have a 77 280Z with an 82 model alternator, prior to rewiring a complete mess of things i had the charging system working great(alternator producing 13.85-14.00V). Now after correcting many mistakes (previous owner) in the wires under the dash the alternator only puts out aprox 10.00-10.50V. Could the alternator died all of a sudden? Could i have cross some wires that would have this effect? I followed the wiring diagram exactly as it showed with just a few changes due to having automatic wiring harness with a manual trans (again previous owner). Or could the wire harness be the problem? Thanks in advance!

Does this setup work with the upgraded '82 model alternator?

That would be the obvious solution if I had the cover. It was missing when i got the car.

Thanks for all the quick and great advice, I decided to keep it wired as is. The previous owner was a complete nut job and made such a mess of things that i spent 2 days completely rewiring the car. BTW, does anyone know or have a picture of the proper turn signal/light & wiper control location on the steering colum. I forgot to mark its location when i removed it to resoldier a couple of broken wires.

I'm just not keen on the idea of too many things drawing from the battery when it is off. Odds are, if you say its suppose to be that way, I will not change it but would like to know there is still another alternative. Thanks again sblake01 for all your help. Btw, would you happen to know about the fusable link problem i posted about?

Thanks for the quick responses, Is there a way to modify to only come on when the key is turned to the on postion?

Just to be sure i attached a picture of the gauge with the car off and key out.