sjcurtis

I dont think I can add much more to this discussion at this time, my experience pre-dates the electronic age, and "Mr Attard" wrote the forced induction bible I worked from. I must say I agree with Ben digital photo,s whould be great to help with any assessment. Alan To the Janspeed Address, it is a small world I actually lived in Broadchalk in 65 when my father worked for the MOD at Bosmome down (TSR2). Yes I must addmit I have heard of all the Turbo makes mentioned by all parties. Ben I love the improvements I saw on the turbo system setup, a case of just the right mix of Mods. Was that a Ford throttle body? Ben P To Add to Alans imput on external control the most probable senario is a modified mechanical ignition advance only in a standard type Hitachi distibutor with a fixed bleed at the waste gate control. Cheers Steve :classic: :classic:

No Alfadog, you got it all wrong Ben was talking about oval track racing, besides depleted uranium is the warhead of choice it lingers. A and another thing we are getting a starwars missile defence shield I heard a prominent short ozzy Bloke tell the australian population on national TV. So There Steve:classic:

I have used the after market version of the perspex cover for years, covering my Lucas Carrilo H4 Lights 90/130 I must say I have never noticed the bad light dispersal. But I can watch the bitumen bubble in front of the car on high beam at night. Warren at www.allzparts.com.au Had (10yrs ago) both versions of the genuine nissan covers, long and short for S30 series cars. They were very expensive then. My 2c Cheers Steve:classic:

Good to hear from you Alan, I was trying to remenber the other turbo that was common back then RAJAY. I must admit I can definately help with the general data about what Ben has found, as the Kit you showed is identical to what we in Australia where fitting in the early 80's too. I am glad you now about Janspeed. That should really help Ben. Cheers Steve:classic:

Bpaccaud, from what you have described this setup sounds early 80s design. It has the Jaguar carby, is it= (1 X 50cm or 2X38cm SU) does it have kkk turbo. If so it is probably designed for low boost low maintenance application it should be pretty good and reliable maybe some rework on the carby might fix it up. Does it have water injection . does it have a pressure distributor advance. If you have these items it might indicate a diffrent setup. My 2c cheers Steve:classic:

I have just taken a look at my 73, front bar mount brackets and they appear like they could be sourced under the same part number L shaped, just fitted in a reverse direction on the bar. description = both brackets exidibet the same sharp direction change just past the outer mount hole (bar mount end) so that the bracket almost gets to 90 degrees bend towards the rear but not quite. then the bracket continues to the rear and outwards through a gentle curve to the rear for three inches at this point both brackets are parallel and the attach points would be aligned. Back to the gentle curve+ if you measure about 1 inch to the outboard side of each outer attachment stud on the bar, at that point use a ruler with the brackets tight on the stud if the ruler is laid towards the rear over the marked point. you will intersect both brackets about 2.5 inches to the rear just as the bracket starts to align parallel to the mounting point on the front subframe ( the attach is a further inch or so further to the rear. this is only as my bar is fitted. A big hint with your task, sort the brackets, achieve a measured alighment with the brackets firmly attached to the bar, then fitt (2 People are a must, 3 is better) My 2c Steve :classic:

East Coast Australia, come on post up people

g260, just took a good look at the gallery pictures. looks exceptional, just love the condition of your interior. The whole package looks realy good now. That rail overhang thing, I see what you mean I think what you suggested should work just fine. Do you get good sound from the head rest speakers. Cheers Steve:classic: :classic:

It has been good for all of us to experience the buz 350Z is creating nationaly. I have one complaint, the disclaimers "foriegn version shown" or similar. The other item the heritage add lots of home market Z's and again no local Australian content. Dont get me wrong I am happy, every time they play any 350z add our group profile lifts. Any education of the general public is brilliant. My 2c Cheers Steve:classic:

Gav240Z, Yes with the P75 I was talking injection, I mean just the standard annalog stuff not the big bucks aftermarket stuff. DCOE's are the ultimate buzz to drive but, who can afford the fuel at that rate these days. I agree Turbo engine is a good long term goal. I know what you mean by bad inner doors, I just changed out the two on the 73 durring repaint as they were like holes in chees. With the manifold you want to run It is good as long as you can achieve the rich running mixture from the Hitachi's, also a good tip is increase your fuel pressure ( elec pump and regulator) and wrap those on manifold fuel lines well. All the Aussie Standard pre pollution hardware will assist in the horsepower quest. I did Run the four stud manifold for a while but I kept getting vapour lock so I took the easy option and went injection. Rather than what I have suggested hear. Good Luck Steve :classic:

In Australia we have some realy bad emission legislation too. I wish you all the best FIGHT WELL. For the funny side, when I saw beandips line. My thoughts went to all the rubber hoses and emmision valves on a built for California lawn mower, and the smog lawn patrols that chase them around . Cheers Steve:classic:

Gav240Z, looking at your set up I would recommend the P75 or another in the series of injected manifolds, parts are easy and I can guarantee the 10HP plus another 10hp to keep you happy. My reasoning is simple if you carb up with that group of manifolds and with your set up you will have to be right on top of your running mixture. I mean the mixture when you have with 5,500 under the needle and you want to go hard. Seriously for mild to wild F54 plus anything modified with decent capacity and cam you realyu need to experience the wild DCOE Webber Tripple or the ultra smooth injection. My 2c Good luck with the Manifolds Steve:classic:

appologies to all, my last on the subject. Biker I saw a picture of an IOWA class passing through Panama (lock with 10 inches width to spare) the qoute from a mate was the Iowa's were designed to pass through the Panama canal for fleet change over. My comment was thats something you cant do with a Collins class " go through the Panama lock" my mates responce was why? I answered it was designed in Australia , it would never get to Panama. Cheers Steve:classic:

Totally off the subject, I appologise but I just want acknowledge, Bikers avtar of "The Grey Lady" good to see the Picture Cheers Steve:classic:

To give the opposite view as a mirror to this discussion. I believe if you do a Heavy (or full) Rebuild, includes the added machining tasks of Line Boring, Decking, head full re-work(surfacing / shave new guides line bore and such. You also have the added block preps seed blasting de-burring, acid dipping and repair welding as required and possible blueprinting maybe even dynamic balance depending on your application. Then you have resizing of rotating bearing surfaces and grinding/polishing. The short answer, it is like "Z KID" says a light rebuild is any build that does not require any more than minor head rework hone rings and bearings to get you going. Go the P90, its the winner. my 2c Steve :classic:

g260, It has taken a while for me to come across the post. It sounds like the passenger seat is a pretty good fit. Glad to hear you have got the mod done to a useable stage. Is there any way of removing the excess rail from the rear of the seat track prior to installation. Would it be possible to do a removal of excess rail from the rear of the drivers seat track prior to installation. Did you take any digital images of the modification, if so can you post some. Did you go to Orange. Cheers Steve:classic:

frankensteinZ, I have seen you problem threw the ignition saga, what i didnot see was an explanation for what is happening. In my opinion you are suffering from age related failure of the "run- ignition" circuit. the wiring system you are working on has two distinct circuits, Start & run one has a higher voltage when cranking , the circuit that is working and a reduced voltage run circuit (sometimes dropping lower that 6-8 volts) over the dropping resistor if the system is in poor condition, or deteriated. I have to go along with the others and say go to electronic ignition. This does not have to be a huge change from what you have, all you need is a good elec guy and a few junker parts off a 280Z or ZX wreck, and the diagram attached, dont be put off that it is for Australia the theory is sound and with the right parts your Z will run smoothly again. My car has run sweet for ten years with only minor adjustment based on this diagram. Replace the run circuit good luck My 2c Steve:classic:

George, I think that the white square was deliberately put there, and there is probably one similar at the back. The position is used for black numbers during race events. Steve :classic:

George, good spotting, great looking race car , was I reading it right two cars in that price. Oh to have the cash. My 2c Steve:classic:

Skater8j8, good luck with the injection modification. The cheapest way is to do it all yourself using a complete donnor car taking everything you need. When you need any tech support just post the request and you will get lots of help from everyone. I did my conversion to injection over ten years ago and believe me it is one of the best upgrades you can do for reliability and fuel economy you get 30mpg. good luck Steve:classic:

Geof, it is great hear someone is enjoying the power of V8 in a 260Z in NSW. The RTA was really hard on any V8 transplants to the early Z body in NSW at one stage. They had a blanket ban on any V8 manual 240Z or 260Z that presented for rego. Most autos where approved. To this day I dont know exactly why. W.A.ZED, when it comes down to engines for transplant it is endless here in Australia but the two best options are 4.4 v8 P76 engine to keep your balance right. It is as good as the 3.5 but you can probably get better support with the 3.5. For my money go the VH45DE or its smaller brother both built by a true Z affiliate " infinity" by NISSAN. The logic behind this is technoligy power possible power upgrades and fully supported by the NISSAN dealer network in Australia, INFINITY with the VH45DE was an Australian released model. The importers have heaps of the engines around, why go TOYOTO think about it. my 2c Steve

I saw an auto 2 seater Z a 260 I think, few years ago in Sydney. I think the guy who owned it was from Tassie it had the 4.4 President with a holley carb, this was in 93/93 when they still would not let you register with the manual box. my 2c Steve :classic:

My local dealer had a 350Z in the showroom today. The dealer is in East Maitland NSW, the Z was a Silver with Black interior Manual and handbrake on the left of the tunnel ( it looks along way over). This car looked like it had only had an exterior clean as the interior is completely covered with Plastics. The dealership does not have a test drive vehicle yet. Now that I have seen the car in the flesh I must say it is impresive it does not look heavy like previous incarnations. Rating 8 out of 10. Cant wait to hear about a test drive. My 2c Steve :classic:

Ben, yes agreed it is a z series engine but nicely bombed, very handy with the plumbing these guys. Id say by the look of it, it would wind up pretty well ( for a Z series). Cheers Steve:classic:

Rick, the best method to overcome your existing problem of dim lights. you need to get an auto electrician to make up a small loom extension. Run two wires from the large starter motor terminal, with 30 amp fuses one in each on the right hand strut tower set up two relays,these first two wires are the main power supply to your low and high beam, one relay for high one relay for low beam. The next step at your RH headlight to car loom plug separate make up another plug and wires to fit the car loom plug at that point, these wires run back to the relay and initiate the relays to on when required the earth wires from the relays go to the earth return ( the other pin in the new plug that was just made) RH Front. the last action is to make up two sets of wires from the two relays to each head light, and fit loom plugs to install them to the head light loom plug. The understanding is that all your feed wires are much heavier than your existing ones. The new loom can support halogen lights up to 130/150 on high beam and 65/90 on low beam. The critical path is find a good light with a grade a reflector HELLA H4 there are a few choices out there but they are good. If you get an auto electrician to set this up let him now that the 240Z headlight system works on low and high out and earth return thru the switch, and your intent is to use the circuits to initiate only. The only down side is the light looms if you have the time and the money get those two looms upgraded to heavier grade wire and remove all you problems. 1. Get a good set of Halogen Light inserts. 2. select the halogen bulbs you want to run I run 90/130. 3. Find a good electrician. good luck My 2c Steve:classic: