sjcurtis

Wish I could buy this L28ET combination (front cut complete) from an importer in Aus My 2c Steve:classic:

Jeff one of the things about the early Z is the small diamiter return line. this could be messing with your fuel flow, that fuel pressure look for 35-38psi constant at the pump. Check your return fuel via the pressure regulator functional check. Remove the vacum line to the pressure reg blank the manifold end listen for any change it should get rough and maybe smokey, but you should get some change, no change, change out the regulator. Hope that helps. my 2c Steve :classic: Edit: Jeff I thought of an obvious fault, EFI wiring from computer, start wire and run wire crossed over so you get minimum start fuel, but full rich fuel when running with start mode off .

I don't no what WA State Rego NAZIS are up to, but the general rule in Australia is "if the vehical pre- dates legislation and is road registered in good condition, they can ask you to change the configuration but not demand the change. It is a volantary action. Dont let the rego lapse as they are in a much better position to get what they want. I use as an example a number of Morris 1000 sedans still on full regestration in NSW with NO SEAT BELTS, these cars are factory standard. The RTA in NSW could probably make them fit the belts but would then be open to law suit from anyone injured in those cars by the seat belts, because the car was not designed for them. With those exceptional looking wing mirrors on a Z in NSW the only thing NSW RTA would do is drool over them. For my 2c Steve :classic:

Gavin, If you have a P90 Head go with it. It may take a bit of setting up but there are people who have experience with them, they flow fantastic and will exceed your expectation. The E88 is good but would require a fair amount of work to match the P90, as for fuel there is no one fix but enriching the running mixture may help. Changing the law on what passes as fuel in Australia will fix the problem. good luck Steve :classic:

Thanks Geoff, I will wait in anticipation for the details on Alan, as I am up at Medowie near Raymond Terrace on the North Side of Newcastle (A nice blast from Sydney If you can find anyone to do the runup with you). Thanks for the info about pricing and the variation. Can't wait to see the pics when the Z is ready to fly with the new seats. Cheers Steve:classic:

Geoff I also want to here about this installation of the Miata seats. Please post up the process for us, maybe even the supplier. My 71 auto has inserts in the seats but I am most suspicious of them, much more like a heavey weave cotton style ( still look good) not like the nylon fabric factory ones. my 2c Steve:classic:

Zedrally, I think you were on the right track, go one step futher the the hood locking plate is reversed and takes the cable from the left side , this change also makes the hood secondary lock swap from RH to LH side of the center spigot. my 2C Steve:classic:

halz, I have heard that the 240z had diffrent entry levels in some markets, and the top entry level Z,s had cloth. I thought it was later cars 72 on. I will be very interested to see some of the posts from those that actualy know for sure. The only cloth I have seen on the early cars in the Sydney area was like black nylon or that kind of material like inserts surrounded by the normalo vynal outer, on the seats with the seat back adjustment nob/wheel. my 2c Steve :classic:

Micks Z must say you have a great looking Z nice and clean, got to love the colour, what is it. Also is it a 73 and if im not to rude what is the chassis number as mine (colour similar) is HS30 102660 6/73 AUS compliance. I also once owned 6/73 HS30 102665,same colour with black interior like yours. cheers Steve :classic:

Micks Z, If you have the money and a need for the best available part , ring Z Parts talk to Warren he even sells to Nissan. Let him know you will pay extra for prompt delivery. All Z Parts Unit 1 1 - 5 Chilvers Road, Thornliegh Sydney, Australia. Phone: 61 2 9484 8257 Fax: 61 2 9857 2731 Mobile: 0410 549 070 Email: allzparts@aol.com Email is not a recomended method of contact Good Luck Steve :classic:

TRS, That spoiler may as well be the one on my 73 Z (AVTAR), I bought mine at Z/16 at Girraween over ten years ago believe me I have hammered it on the open road (in the open speed zones between fixed speed cameras) and no complaints, it has great suck down above 50MPH indicated. If you use that beauty your car will be really stable at speed and your Z's nose wont float or wonder. I have to agree with Micks Z "not all fast Z,s are painted red" but to be fair all Z's painted red are fast. thanks for the imput Alan My 2C Steve:classic:

Mr Camouflage, this is fantastic matching numbers and an early 72. Great buying. The reason for the interest in the body numbers comes back to an interest in the cut overs from 71 to 72, one of the guys over in the west had a 72 Z in the UK before he came over to Perth, his body number was lower than my 12/71 Australian compliance, built in 10/71. Now i would your car is probably built 12/71 to be 2/72 compliance. Now the interesting bits my car has the early console and yours has the later one. My car body number is HS301638 and yours is HS3010527 and they are less than three months apart on the production line. this is the point we are chasing what is the change over point, because you cant build that many cars in 2 months. Also there are a number of ways you can work out the production date of your car, a number of components actually carry production dates on them. Ask HS30H about this as he is right up on it. Does anyone else have a HS30 Z that falls between these body numbers, let us Know. my 2c Steve :classic:

Mr Camouflage, it is great to see your new Z. I have to say it looks great and should be a good starting point. Same question as HS30H You say it is a 72 Z what month is it and what is the chassis number. Cheers Steve:classic:

the air flow meter problems can manifest them selves in many ways. From what you have described you have rich mixture induced by a weak air metering flap spring, if you remove the large black plastic cover you will see a phillips screw locking a piece of black plastic tensioning the return spring, in your situation you need to increase spring pressure by about five increments this will lower the fuel rate and increase air percentage. You need to try a changed setting to check for change, then adjust the pressure on the spring to obtain the mixture rate you need. If you pull the airflow meter apart and adjust at this level. I recommend you spray lube in the metering flap pivots make sure the area coverd by the large black cover is well sealed with silastic when you close up. The last time I did this servicing was last week end and it was only the second time in eleven years so it does work. This work will not stop throttle valve switch full power selection causing rich vapour from the exhaust at low speed. This repairs low to mid range vapour trail from the exhaust. I hope you can follow the direction when you do it once it is easy. Good Luck Steve :classic:

ARCH-Z, both are mine that is a brand new 110 red paint job, but my interior is very sad compared to yours(my next project). Yes you are right there is a lot of activity in the Sydney region, but it is hard to be part of it from here. Cheers Steve :classic:

aRCH-Z, good to here your rework is going well also great to hear you have people to cruise with. I am still trying to find people with Z's to cruise with around the Newcastle NSW area. Cheers Steve:classic:

Went for my first cruise throught the Lower Hunter region NSW today. First blast in my 240z since September 02. I had an aborted attempt to do this trip on Australia day but prior to departure I had an electrical fault the airflow meter mechanical side, the air door had frozen solid ( engine would not accelerate off idle). Today I got on the road, travelled down past the local airport spoted some classic Z's parked and stored around this house 5 x HS30,1x GS30 and 1 x GRS30. who said all the cars are gone. These cars are in light storage in the weather visible from the road, 30KM from Newcastle NSW. I continued my cruise down to Hexam and on to Maitland, more fuel and then on to Dungog for lunch, the drive was good but the road, has a reduced speed rating of 90 KPH for the pot holes and general bad repair. Bottomed out only once minor exhaust scrape. After lunch headed through the range to Stroud and back down to Raymond Terrace, this section had a 2 km dirt road. The condition of the bitumen was much better on the run down to Raynond Terrace and 100 KPH is sign posted, i decelerated through 100KPH a few times. It was really great to get behind the wheel of a Z again after a break. Anyone else been out cruising this week end. Steve :classic:

aRCH-Z, I have to agree with Mike, your car has a magnificent interior. Are all your trim panels and vynil wraps original or have you re-worked them, particularly the doors and rear strut wraps. Also are you on the east coast? SYD/BRIS. I would love to see your cars interior first hand, sometime. Cheers Steve:classic:

Z Kid , I must agree with Ozzy guy. It is one of the hardest things to hide, that "this is it and I am going to have it" look. What ever you do don't ring even if it kills you, and when he rings LIE tell him you just bought a Z ( embelish it if you want) but dont cave in). You have to keep searching, You will get a good Z one day. Good Luck Steve :classic:

If you can get the hold of Falken 225x60 R14 they stick realy well I run them on 14x7 inch Enkie spun alloy wheelsHighly recomend if you stick with 14 inch rims. For a good aspect ratio on the 14x7 225 is the ultimate. I cant go to bigger rim width without coil overs or spacers good luck with your tire quest Steve:classic:

Have I got another great story. Did the right thing got up early 5am took the dogs for a walk disscussed taking the the Z for an early morning cruise from Medowie to Maitland and back before 9am (no thats cruising). Got the woman ready got the Pomerainian ready opened the Garage locked the house set the alarms (let the rotties loose). Now thats a great build up for, Steve gets in the drivers seat too get the Z out for the trip. Turned the ignition on, the pump primes and shuts off. Ignition off then on again re-prime because I have not started it for two weeks start the engine. the engine splutters but will not run. remove the air filter enables car to run at about 500 rpm self sustaining but dies when you hit throttle. twenty minutes of f*&^%$*&&^% around checking airflow meter and such with one agitated spectator waiting for her ride in the Z I gave away the idea of my Australia day cruise for 2003 and diconnected the battery for charging while I go through my analog injection books. That was my Australia Day cruise Steve :disappoin :mad:

In the R30 series the standard fit is R180, you will have to get of a coupe DR30 with the right engine combo ie FJ20ET and if you get lucky you will get the large LSD center 3.9 from RS version. my 2c cheers Steve :classic:

Alfadog, look like a bit of bad luck with the antenna. $80 AUS is not buying QUALITY in the aftermarket world these days, have you managed to sort it out yet. I fear I may be on the same slide I paid $85 for probably the same thing, is yours the model with the replaceable mast insert I put mine in to weather proof the car so I could drivr it. I have not wired it up yet. Good Luck Steve:classic:

Any time you can get a good car its great to hear, when you get it for $1 its fantastic. Congratulations, save as many as you can I say. Okay now for the serious stuff, I have $3 can I order Three 240Z,s and a side order of Fries. Good luck with the 71 Steve:classic:

G260 ,The easy way to see if you have an A series box look for heavy ribs on the rear extension housing below the selector assembly. Is there a plate on the output shaft held on to the shaft by a large Nut. This plate has four holes where the tail shaft attaches. Does the bellhousing seperate from the box(early A series). Easy visible for A & B series. The straight gear stick on the A series box fits into the selector arm thru mounting rubbers, and secured with a washer and nut on the bottom end of it. The A series selector arm has a visible pin and circlip (or nut and bolt ) at the selector arm to selector shaft attachment point The B series has the slip in yoke one piece tail shaft like the 260z Sport, The B series Gear stick has a nylon socket on the gearbox end at the tip, and two nylon bushes where the stick attaches to the box by Pin and Circlip. The B series stick if correctly configured will have A round rubber boot covering the attachment pin and circlip where the stick goes into the gearbox, the bottom lip of the boot sitting firmly over the lip of the selector housing. The 71 box should be an A series and the the 260 Definately B series. Hope this is not confusing or insulting Oh and to get off the track for all those looking for Home Market S30, PS30 cars they are on the ground in Australia not in large numbers but just enough for someone to get lucky, answering that little old lady one owner add. I have seen 2 home market S30 cars in Sydney(brought in in the eighties by importers). I think the chances of any comming in now is slim but they are here so keep searching. Good Luck Steve:classic: