sjcurtis

An A series box is very logical in a 69 car Alan. Depending on the work number of the car it could be original, and that would explain the Skyline tag if it is in the states, it would be such a rare car. I definately dont think it is B series Skyline, because they have about four extension shaft / case combinations for the L series and the main body is shorter and fatter than the Z box even with the FS5C71B prefix as the primary design master. This disscussion will get interesting. got to go Steve:classic:

All I can suggest is look at photos of the 240z gearboxes you should see minor diffrences in the position of the rear mount on the rear case of the z box to the Skyline box. The second series boxes are the closest in visual reference to each other but this is still the primary way, also look at the reversing switch and the speedo drive lastly the rear seal particularly the size of the housing. sorry I dont have any pics to show you. Steve:classic:

I would be very sceptical that the gearbox in the car is a skyline box. Is the box a five speed, is the engine an L series, skyline boxes that fitt to L series engines have diffrent rear case assemblies even if they fitt to the L series engine the rear mount would have to be modified, or the rear case and rear shaft would have to be changed with a compatible Z box and lastly the ratios have wider splits. I believe the box is probably late 82-83 Z but the purchaser did not see the car. where are you situated, are skylines with L series engines common in your area. hope this helps my 2c Steve:classic:

In Australia the E30/L24 combination is quite common in earlier 240Z cars. It was common practice in the 70's and 80's to instal either the E30 or E31 depending what was available to overcome cracked heads corrosion and other issues with heads. the E30 off an L24 is very efficient and flows well with the right combination of hardware. without the casting mark most drivers would not pick the E30 from the E31. I have a well matched L24/E30 with pre-polution hardware in my 12/71 auto HS30 sport. This particular engine hates Australia's idea of low octane 0 lead fuel but with 100LL is fine. for my 2c E30 is a great head, has anyone got a brand new one on the shelf. cheers Steve :classic:

my list is short for this year 1. Move my Z cars home from Brisbane to Newcastle by 10 Jan 03 with minium loss or damage on the cars and parts. 2. change an upper rabiator hose and thermostat housing on the 73. 3. make a car cover (read carport) for the 71 4. Meet as many Z enthusiasts as I can in Newcastle /Sydney area. 5. Get to Towoomba for the National Z meet at Easter. as you can see just a short list but it starts heavy. Good lluck with your lists Steve:classic:

For my 2 cents, I am always drawn to any car with a rich dark green paint job. Over the last 25 years mainly around the Sydney area I have seen at least ten cars that would most probably have been original 907 Green with black interior. I will add to that loud statement by saying non of these cars was later in build than say late 71 and most were hatch vented. I have come across these dark green dream machines in all types of condition but never seen the paint sticker to confirm the ident ( some where realy bad ouch wrecks). I have never seen one with anything but black interior. my 2c Steve :classic:

Nigel this is a very common place to find some kind of damage. I do not agree with the speed hump. It looks more like an off bitumen lh slide on to a rock and not recently. Check the full length of the rail for any seperation or hair line fracture lines (Read cracks) I take it you are sure there is not wisting or distortion, only what is in the photo. I would think you will probably find one or two cracks maybe even one that is working (read actively growing) this is the one that appears clean along the line. For a repair to what is in the photo. acertain the above if no further problems are found, look for a good repair shop, get the chassis alignment checked straighten the rail up if required then do a weld with plate repair ( 180b Bonnet to patch repair material is good) after the repair is in position smooth back and paint. Professionally done your rail will actually be stronger. My 2c said this damage looks to minor to expend so much time and money for a rail change. Good Luck Steve :classic:

Geoff, yes it definately looks like you have a good case of 110 Red with Beige interior. I must admit I thought exactly as you did, go to black. What changed my mind was driving my 71 with black interior then the 73 with beige only to find the beige interior was cooler ( no aircon) to travell in during the day so I decided to stick with Beige. Do you know of any one else in the club with Beige. It appears that these Beige interiors are just not around any more. Any one else got the Beige interior. Steve :classic: Moving to Newcastle area 09/10/03

My question is this How many of us are running a 240z with Beige (off-white) as the Interior Colour. I would particularly like to hear about HS30 right hookers. It will be interesting to see just how many these interiors are left in 240z,s as I think they maybe harder to source parts for now. So if you have a 240Z or Know of a 240z with the Beige interior fitted please respond with a post to let us Know. Thanks Steve with 73 110 Red/Beige :classic:

Murrundi yes that sounds like it. Biker as you must know then this trip took place some time ago, in December of 1994 and everytime I tell the story it sure gets a laugh from those that here it. That patrol man new he had the right person but he just could not get that 3 second lock at speed. I still reckon he was one of the good guys and we could probably have changed roles with the same result. Any more stories out there. Steve:classic:

Stories you just love to share. I was traveling on the New England highway (HWY 15) from Sydney to Brisbane. I was traveling through a hilly area with sweeping curves short straights climbs and dips ( classic road for Z exibition read 65 to 95 mph). I came apon a small country town, slowed to crawl speed 35MPH through the town, time 10.15 pm. As I passed the local pub in fourth gear basically at idle speed, I see a police car attending to the post closing time sport Read (fight). Steve not being one to waste an opertunity continues out twards the town limit doing the maths( seen 1 patrol car 40 miles south of tamworth, 10.15 pm answer no more patrol cars to Tamworth) and the 25 miles of straight flat road is 10 mile ahead of me. Preparing to make best of situation, reach town limits Read reposition Tacho needle. After seven minutes of good enjoyable Z driving I can see the trees higher than me lighting up on diffrent bends, thinking steve said car, car moving very fast because he wasnt there a minute ago so he is really speeding Read 85 MPH +. I keep running for another minute the trees are lighting up more often. Steve steps of the "Gas" back to the speed limit 58 MPH-100KM on the post. Steve continues as a sunday driver on to the nice flat straight road into Tamworth, very soon read next 25 seconds car directly behind about 1 mile and coming up fast. I continue to drive like grand ma, the car comes up to fifty yards and sits right in behind me. Steve thinks it is a good time to pull off for a break on the shoulder. I indicate and pull off, the car follows pulls up directly behind, I get out and stretch, the nice police officer of the NSW highway patrol greets me G,Day where you headed. Brisbane I say, he responds with good night for it not a cloud in the Sky and not a car to be seen. True I say , then comes the next question where have you come from Sydney I say, Next question when did you leave, about 4 hrs ago I answer. The officer looks at me looks at the car and said you Know some curios things happen in those hills my radar kept on going off but I could not find the speeder, curios I say. He smiles and tells me to take a coffee break in Tamworth and not to enjoy the next section of road as much as the last. With that he gets back in his patrol car and leaves , I gave him a 2 minutes start and went into Tamworth for a coffee break. Curios thing a lone patrol car passed the truck stop when I was drinking my coffee. Thats my story I had to share. Injected L28s are Fun. Steve :classic:

Hi Nigel, Just thouht I would throw in my 2c worth on the subject matter in your attached picture, inset in the purple square. I know I am only rehashing some of the information already posted in the replies. The support assembly behind the fusible link assemblies is commonly known as the Relay Bracket. The items that have the fusible links looping out of them are commonly known Fusible Link Holders. Both fusible link holders are essential loom requirements of the 75 and later 260Z/280Z wiring looms. Fusible link colour BLACK size 1.25 mm. Fusible link colour GREEN size 0.5 mm. fusible link colour BROWN size 0.3 mm. This is the correct combination of fussible links. System Coralation for RH Drive Non Injected is: Head Lamp System Brown Turn and Signal Green Hazard Warning Black Stop Lamp Black Clearance and Tail Light System Black Reversing Lamps Green Instrument Lighting Black Interior Lights Black Glove Box Light Black Tacho Green Water Temp & Oil Pressure Green Voltage & Fuel Gauge Black/Green Brake Warning Green Charging System (through voltage regulator system) Black /Green Heater Blower Black/Green Airconditioner Black/ Green Horn Black Wipper & Washer Green Cigar Lighter Black Cigar Lighter Illumination Black Clock Black Demister Black/Green Radio & Antenna Green I know this list does not cover everything, but it gives you the basic idea. hope this helps Steve :classic:

Happy New Year Enrique. Happy New Year George. Happy new year to all. Best wishes for a prosperous new year to all who read this reply. Steve:classic:

Biker, I have heard of people using devcon or plastic metal to seal the case drain hole and stop the mess. it is only a tempory repair but it will stop that oily mess in the engine bay. The theory is the case drain hole on the body near the attachment lugs is put there to stop pressure build up in the event of seal failure, so if the oil seal has failed you already have a presure relief to the cranl case, and the oil is only splash oil, so for a short term repair you seal the external vent forcing the oil back to the crank case. just a thought Steve:classic:

Biker are you talking mechanical engine driven, or electrical at the front of the fuel tank. In either case if the item is rated for the l26 engine then it will feed the twin combination hitachis you may need to look deeper if you run tripple webbers. You normally find that if pressure (4-5 psi) it should be good. Typical of our dealer network, did you ask them what the supply time would be ex Japan and when could they satisfy your order. Unforunately if we as a group do not persist and place the orders with our local Nissan dealers to be filled ex Japan. We will loose all support due to lack of visibility in Japan. Have you talked to Warren (all Z Spares) in Sydney, maybe he would have what you want. Good Luck Steve :classic:

It sounds like you have a bulk stock L28 with a stock polution cam. Even with the government reducing the octane rating in standard unleaded without consenses your 240Z /72 engine in standard form was produced in a configuration that could deal with the current crop of fuel in oz. The L28 will deal with all your fuel concerns but will only ever be pedestrian unless you tweek its tits off it ( inject it boost the compression and fit a 68 degree cam). The L24 ran so much better because it was designed to provide maximum performance from its configuration. My 12/71 L24 auto with twin hitachi carbs goes like a cut snake I get a little bit of ping from the useless fuel but thats it. I recomend do not tamper with the cam configuration until you are sure both cams are self oilers as the 240Z L24 engines did not all have self oiling cams, so it could be a bit more than a simple cam swap out. The L28 can be a magnifcant engine if you can get a good upgrade package to work for you. Where do you live in Oz as there are some realy good people around that could help you with this problem. regards Steve :classic:

Jimbo, did you install the l28, is the n42 and cam the original set up for that l28. Was the l28 a center sump, rear sump or front sump l28 before it was fitted . Are you running tripple carbs, twins carbs or injection. Are you running electronic ignition. do you know what diff ratio you are running and what is the wheels and tire combination. Sorry about twenty questions. It may help. steve:classic:

I saw a set on yahoo auctions Japan last night, they had a crack about 1/4 inch long in the left lense cover but other than they looked fine. Problem how do you bid an item when you cant read the information, if you can overcome that hurdle these normal sized (fit HLS30) chrome surround covers are still in existences if not factory new. good luck Steve:classic:

Max, sorry cant help you with a supplier. I can say two diffrent sellers in Japan are offering the original multi part ZG nose on The Yahoo Auction site Japan as of date 12/27/2002 have a look there, maybe you Know someone that can translate and deal for you. good luck with your quest Steve:classic:

Rick , as with most thing Z the production dates for these cars is not easy to chase down, as we did not get VIN plates in the door well like the USA build version. You can only realy guess at your production date. My 71 has a 12/71 ADR plate delivered and first registered in Brisbane 01/72 and production was around mid/late Oct 71 by the seat belt theory. The seat belt theory is that if you have original seat belts fitted the manufacture tag on them will date your car,as this is one of the last trim items fitted. The tag that carries the date is at the bottom attach position in the rear floor pan. In some cases sun bleaching has removed the information. As far as general production run info goes someone else should be able to help. Hope this helps you. Steve:classic:

Marc, 2Manyz's has hit the nail on the head, you have to work out where you want to go with this engine. If you continue with the same combination and set up you will loose either an engine or a piston crown. The pitting in this engine is the first sign of inpending doom. With boosted engines the process is sped up at an alarming rate it appears that the fuel or boost management of your engine combo has gone astray at some time. this is the area you should concentrate on once you get the hardware sorted out. Did any other pistons show signs of pitting, scouring or bubbling durrng inspection or even possible edge burning. If so consider replacing the whole set. Good Luck:classic: Steve

"tttz" fairlady with G Nose cheers:classic: Steve

"tttz"Here is the components that make up a G Nose, I got this picture from a Garage in Japan this Morning. you have the two headlight buckets the lower spoiler/air intake the top front panel and the larger front bar. I will attach a picture of a z with it installed next Steve:classic:

Rob, sorry to hear about the bad luck. hope you can get repaired and back on the road soon. I think that Carlos from Sportclassic may be able to help you. Carlos as a large stock of used Z parts that covers from 240z to 300zx. If nothing else it gives you a nother set of prices to compare. here is the address block from his web site. Address: 1077 Castlereagh Road Castlereagh NSW 2749 Postal Address: PO Box 1257 Penrith NSW 2751 Phone: (02) 4776 1174 Fax: (02) 4776 2111 Mobile: 0418 284 776 Email: sales@sportsclassic.com.au Working Hours: Tuesday - Friday: 8:30 - 5:30 Saturday By Appointment Only. Hope this will assist you and your zed's recovery:classic: Steve

Rob it appears I was wrong about these mirrors being off the pony car. This is the site address for the Australian supplier in Brisbane,http://mustangautoparts.com.au/Falcon/index.htm GTMR and GTML are the product codes they stock them under This supplier is supposed to be the cheapest in the country thier contact email is sales@mustangautoparts.com.au hope this info will help you :classic: Steve