sjcurtis

Here is one Rare Spares in Adelaide South Australia the contact is Drew (Andrew) his email is reshotsa@chariot.net.au he carries a selection of parts an rubber Drew also has two Z's

Bizza, this spoiler is AUS manufacture, mine was purchased some 7 years ago in Sydney at Z/16 Kings Langley. This year I added a lower aerofoil section to the underside lower edge with cut outs for the wheels to move through from lock to lock. When I had this mod I had standard panels fitted, you just do not realise how effective the full spoiler is until its taken away. I believe that a fiberglass workshop in the Archerfield area of Brisbane actualy produces this spoiler on request. A friend who's 74/ 260z I posted for sale in the for sale area on this site actually contacted the manufacturer for himself, his contact detail is on the post maybe that will help you. I believe thier price was under $300.00 AUS in Gel Coat at the point of sale. Good luck finding a spoiler:classic: Steve

For my 2c worth this is the road spoiler that works for me Steve:classic:

Ozzy, does the whole seat rock or just the seat back. If it is the whole seat you will find the attachments under the slider rail front or back may have loose nuts. when you look at these four bolt threads you should see directly below the slider rail a single plastic spacer on each position or maybe even more than one if the last owner was shorter than average this is where the nuts are that may need tightening. If it is the seat back only moving check the mechanism attachment screws for tension and movement tighten as required. If it is the actual mechnism lock and ratchet tongue you may be able to shim it out a bit. I have never attempted this shimming thow. Good Luck Steve :classic:

Ozzy, have you talked to Shannons Classic Insurance yet about an agreed value policy, to cover your investment. Sydney is a wild place when it comes to traffic. With such a great car I would hate to see it on the road with no cover. Enjoy your first day of rego, I bet we will be able to see your smile from Brisbane. Good Luck Steve:classic:

Ozzy It is normal for the inside button not to lock the door mechinism when the door is open, or not fully closed. this part of the lock stops the key from being locked in the car. Is the paint colour in the pictures the cars original colour (Scarlet red 664) with black interior or has the car been painted from another colour to the red colour. Cheers Steve:classic:

For my 2c I think it looks like a remote safety kill switch or emergency power off if those red wires at the terminal end are ignition colour code. By the terminal plugs is that car a 260z or a 280z as it looks later than 240z. Steve:classic: Also the light are still on in Australia no flickers yet, thats Australia with one I got ya.

Ozzy, glad I could help. Congratulations on an excellent choice of a true Classic sports car. I think you will find that your classic 240z sport will give you years of imense pleasure I wish I was closer to Sydney so I could come and have a look. The pics on your other post look great. I will catch up with you on day for a look. Say G'Day to Carlos for me. Good luck with the Z Steve :classic:

To go in a little deeper now that we have established that a fuel pulse exists in the fuel rail, lets look at the possibilities for that pulse if we have the regulater operating correctly the flow will be good and pressure should be 38psi +1 or -1 psi at when engine is running with the optimum fuel plume coming from the injector into the cylinder. If you now rev the engine the vacum will drop increasing flow to the injectors still at 38psi still pulsing now that pulse at high rpm and high flow is still at optimum plume because the excess is absorbed by the damper. when you come off full power that next two seconds is critical when the damper has to be fully efficient and earn its place in the system, because any excess flow to the injectors when vacum is restored and the regulator closes down the flow, will destroy the optimum fuel plume and the atomization of the fuel in to the engine causing in worst case piston wash. and the bottom line is all the hard work you just put in showing that honda your tail lights will disappear in a coughing splutering mess after you change gear. I hope I have put this across in a way that does not affend but that is how I understand the relationship between the pump the regulator and the value of the damper (critical part) in the system Good luck Steve:classic:

Jeff, If you go after the fuel pump and the damper and attachment hardware on an existing vehicle Z/ZX get the whole mounting plate and flex hoses damper - everything you think is related. then you can mount it all up fwd of the fuel tank of your Z. My zx fuel pump is mounted on the OEM suspension plate with the damper and pre fillter right up next to the spare wheel tub under the floor mounted to the rear parcel shelf floor by three bolts just behind the rear right strut. themore bits you have when you start the better and quicker the right result, you can always shelve the excess parts. If you dont grad everything when it is there in front of you it could take a while to get the job done. for pump wiring use the existing rear harness connections located with the fuel quantity loom to the tank. at the front of the car where these two wires come up to the main ignition loom you will need to in stall relays which are controlled bi the fuel management computer. you will also have to run a relay for the efi computer as well as a start lead in. Well we can talk more about electrics later. good luck Steve :classic:

I have just put my car through a $6000.00 AUS respray and metal repair clean up, in the work shop for three months still fully moveable, and to quote the owner of the workshop ( MAN INTO 60'S PONTIACS) " you know for an old car it is great it always starts first time"and thats with no intertown runs to charge the battery. The efi upgrades are good but like yourself I will be looking very hard at any new components I introduce to my Z as I currently get about 28MPG on a trip and have been running this set up for over ten years, it is sweet. Good luck with the repaint, I hope the guys doing the job are as good as the people I had then you will be very happy. Can't wait for the installments on the EFI upgrades. Steve:classic:

"Doehring" I am quite sure you have the good part in your hands, the 260z 2+2 only changes its dimensions to the rear of the windscreen pillar. you can not use the complete doors the rear hatch ore the rear quater windows. the front screen and all of the parts forward will fit a good 70-73 car and that is for any 2+2 up to the 78 boby change. Here in Australia these 2+2 car are quite common and we get lots of bit parts from them. Hope this helps Good Luck :classic: Steve

I have to be honest , I do not know anything about the N47 so I will not comment other than to say if it came off an L28 it should be good if it is open chamber, only caution might be watch your compression ratio. Pumps and regulators, okay this is what I know any fuel injected nissan car that has an engine capacity between 2.0 L and 3.5 L can donate a pump for your project, the only caution is if it comes off a turbo car it might flow high. The standard fuel reg on the nissan manifold will regulate any of the pumps from above. If you decide on an aftermarket pump bosch are good brand you need a pump that can operate around 35-40 psi I am not sure what flow figures but the store should be able to give you information on that for a bunch of diffrent cars and then you choose." Some of the aftermarket pumps can be very noisy". My favorite is the standard nissan pump from the 82-83 280zx, they are super reliable "quiet" and they are at every breakers yard. any way good luck:classic: steve

Jeff you need to source a late E88 head, I mean one produced after 1980. This head will give you the acceptable 240Z head and all the relief for the injectors this head is the standard head for an L24E out of the R30 series Skyline. The engine was used in a variety of cars your Nissan dealer should be able to help. So 81-85 production E88 will do what you want. good luck Steve:classic:

I am running an L28E in my 73, I am only using standard 82 (annalog) equipment by partno from the nissan cattle dog, computer, airflow meter, injectors and throttle body are all standard I am using the progressive twin throttle valve body but it is not huge. There are plenty of 65mm and bigger throttle bodies out there, but I have not got there yet. Here we have an advantage we also have cars running rb30 engines and rb30 turbo engines so fuel flow and digital fuel management is at the local wreckers yard. 65mm throttle bodies comes on every ford 4.0 litre injected sedan since about 1986 here so they are everywhere and that conversion is very affective on an L28 engine. I choose to run the annalog computer because I can vary mass airflow figures to trick the computer. When I hit the ignition to start it purs when I dump the clutch and hammer it it roars.very happy. Is this the kind of thing you are after. Steve:classic:

Ozzy, try http://www.sportsclassic.com.au contact them by phone Carlos has a large stock of all sorts of Z spares and he does have complete cars for sale at diffrent times. You might get lucky tell him what you are looking for and let him know what money your looking to spend, he might be able to put you on to the right Z. good luck Steve:classic:

Hi Team, I must say I find this disscussion fasinating. I do not Know that much about the Z in its HLS form or the early days of pre-production or early production and country distribution. I do Know that there is a lot of grey area now through intent or just lack of broad based Knoledge. I do Know this ,When you place the indicator arm on the steering column you place the on the LH side for LH drive orientation and on the RH side for RH drive, orientation. Did they make a diffrent switch unit on the column for light and indicators on HLS versions. When I switch my lights on the arm indication is not viewed in an upside down position in my HS30 orientation. One item that definately is produced for the HLS and is diffrent to the HS version is the bonnet/ hood safety catch, it has changed to suit the actuation cable orientation. ETE ETC. The P510 sedan is sensational I had the advantage of cutting my teeth in some fine 1600/P510 cars in many diffrent guises. Thanks for the quality of the thread team. Please keep it going. My 2c Steve

Mike thanks for posting the guide to 1, 2 and 3 cars it was very informative, a great explanation and my hat off to Karl Beck for putting it across so well. From where I am standing I think probably qty 4 cars in this country would rate a 1 but then the line dulls through the cars rated at 2 which is probably 50 cars in reality here. In competition the 2 rated cars rarely confront a 1 rated car at judging so that is where the line dulls. I can make that statement as my meager efforts could probably achieve a car rating of 40 in a 10 grade rating system. So as not to confuse anyone when I stand 20M from any 240Z I always see a car rated 1 (my eye specialist confirms). thats my 2c Steve:classic:

Mark, I can see your dilema. If only we could all be faced with the same dilema. The best combination in all cases is f54 and p90 so It may be a turbo. To change back just go a set of flat tops pistons to bump your compression. factory carb, Mikunis, Webers or even Delortos will bring it to life for you. The P90 is a updated/ revamped version of the old E31 head from the older 240z cars, with the added extra of all the modern changes built in. The P90 will still take your z carby manifold and carbs. the F 54 again is the real deal it is the last evolution of the L28 and it can crack the wip. I run an injected L28 in my daily runner, f54/P90 and more. For my 2c I would say forget the carbs, go injected or turbo injected with an L28ET f54/P90. Good luck with your dilema Steve :classic:

With the Hella H4 you are buying the bench mark in a good all around light unit/ insert. What stands the H4 hella up among its peers is it meet the regulatory requirement of most of the civilised world, and it is very functional it has a great reflector and it can stand lots of diffrent light inserts from pedestrian 56/55 watt up to the really evil eye burning inserts like 90/130 watt or more. Shop around for a good insert, the golf unit, some of the early fiat units, the lada niva units, even the good old nissan Koito inserts from the 280zx are H4 pattern lenses so you still get the correct light dispersal in high and low. the diffrences is the quality of the reflector and how long it will stay bright and reflective. At this time I am using lada H4 75/100 won my C20 Cheverolet Pickup, Koito H4 on my 12/71 Z 60/55 w and a set of old lucas carrillo H4 in my 6/73 Z daily driver. My wife has Koito H4 halogen sealed beams in her nissan patrol TD4.2. My favorite lights are the "Prince of darkness" specials "Lucas Corrillo H4" 90/130 watt with rellays fuses and heavy copper wire fed by an 55 amp alternator (Hitachi). So for my 2c H4 is a world lighting standard pattern. And Hella is a well known supplier of a pretty good package. Good luck with the hunt, Please use relays and seperate wires to feed your new lights on high and low beam. Steve:classic:

about this swap I believe this is possible if you are attempting 2 seater to 2 seater I just trashed my two 06/73 doors and fitted a pair of 4/77 doors, yes the lock mechs had minor updates and changes to attach hardware, the lock barrels were different. I removed all the mechanicals cleaned and lubricated and then selected the best set of hardware out of both door sets and matched it up , I selected both of the older latch assemblies, and had zero problem the door operation after completion of the work. I recommend get the best doors you can buy then make it happen when you are ready. I paid $500.00 (AUS) per door for the two I got, and the shop spent a further four days on each shell, now they are perfect. good luck Steve

This practice is not common in Australia. Hope you guys dont have any emergency that you need to move your z by road. I think salt on roads Sucks even from here. my 2c Good Luck Steve:classic:

I agree on the 73 and earlier the return is the small one on 74 and later they are the same size, that is of course if we are talking about the two fuel lines that run through the trans tunnel. Not quite sure what the problem is though. please explain? my 2c Steve:classic:

Good response Enrique, excellent imput. You mentioned courtesy lights, I take it you have utilised the footwell lighting wiring loops in your car and these lights come on with the rear dome light, when the door opens. well thats what my courtesy lamps do. No burnt wires please. Steve :classic:

Dave, is that the worst of the two rims in the picture. If it is the worst, I think you will be in luck for repair. I snapped out a 3inch section on the bead lock , and bent one similar to that after comming off(diesel spill on a corner) the process is a straight tig weld build up and then machine to restore the surface. It might not be cheap but it is worth it. The only hold up may be the alloy content of the wheel hopefully no magnesium. I was lucky with my Enkies as they were straight spun racing alloy and tig worked. Happy hunting good luck Steve:classic: