sjcurtis

Sean,I have sympathy for you and the electrical problems in your car. From what you have said it looks just like the normal Z seasonal problems that I have with mine. I find with my Z the indicators , wiper and washer , heater fan power and even EFI fuel pump system and low/high beam will play up occasionally with the change of season or storage time. I did worry and expect the worse like you are right now. The up side is if you can except that you need to make minor changes, fuses an fuseable links, and ocasionally clean the contacts at a lamp or a plug then you will probably find in the long term the wiring loom in your z is still good and maintainable. I have been enduring these season change irratations for the last ten years so now I know when I hit the ignition and I dont here the EFI pump running, I pull the fuse and re fitt it then it runs normally again. This function normally works for all the systems I have mentioned except the beam lights, I know if I do not get low beam when I select it a bump on the road will initiate the change shortly after selection, same for high beam. The lights are due to a relay sticking. I use the high lowbeam circuit in the Z wiring to initiate only all light power comes through the relays for high/low beam. So Sean you are not alone, good luck. Steve :classic:

I have a set of "Tokico Gold" non adjustable with King springs and sway bars. When I throw my car at the corner it stays thrown, I do not use my car on the track so I can not coment about adjustables. Tockico Green was the choice for racing years ago but I dont think they are available anywhere anymore. Happy Hunting Steve :classic:

I have straight glass in the hatch 12/71 and 06/73. It comes down to that option thing. It appears that a lot of cars in Australia had very few extras. like heater demister hazards and such. I have seen two distinctly diffrent styles of demisted glass in HS30 hatches one with vertical lines and one with horizontal. Sorry I can not explain why. Cheers Steve :classic:

I am restoring my daily driver one part at a time, started in 92 and it is in the shop for sheet metal and paint at this time, then comes interior and trim. So that is TEN years and still going, but it is a daily driver. Westfield "WESTFIELD" (HMMMMM !!!!! goes like hell turns and stops) got to love that. So that my story one on restore and one in storage waiting. Thats my lemon yellow 12/71 in storage on the trailer waiting its turn.

To add on your information Lee, The GQ nissan Patrol that stopped and went out of production in Australia in 1997 still uses the same basic sealed beam unit, this unit would pass at any concourse. Nissan still supply this item only it is "Halogen" sealed beam unit. The unit still complies to the original 240Z E4 pattern lense and shows no external tell tail marks. My 2c Cheers Steve:classic:

both mirrors are FORD catologue parts from an aussie built sports special the 1971 Ford XY GT FALCON. I believe they also made a place in history on a mid sixties pony car but I do not know which one both mirrors are flat face so you just manouver it to suit . Held on by two 3/8 nuts about an inch apart in the same plane. you have to drill through the double skin and lock behind, this will be evident when you look at your doors. I should be able to source part numbers and a Aus supplier. In the states they should be available if I can supply the pony car model and age. cheers Steve :classic:

this photo gives a view of the working mirror angles.

This is the other door mirror, and the outers are alloy

When it comes to door mirrors there are many options, these are the ones I selected for my car at repaint.

"Raven", if you can tell us the age/ year of your car, I have paint chips covering most production years. I might be able to help. Do you still have the paint code sticker readable on the radiator support panel,drivers side. Cheers Steve :classic:

I forgot ot attach a picture. this is one I found on a Japanese S30 site. I think it is probably an Australain car out of NSW or Victoria, great looking car, look at the mirror on the door that is the one I think is the most common. Cheers Steve:classic:

From all the picture I have seen of the 240Z one thing I have kept an eye on is the door mirrors. Here in Australia it is legal to register a 240Z for the road without a drivers door mirror as they came into Australia from the factory "clean skin" all the mirrors as far as I have been able to find out were dealer added option. This dealer option seems to have been cosistant most cars seem to have a mirror as follows: crome mounting arm with a stainless steel backed mirror fitted. this mirror was about 58mm on the inside edge, 105mm along the top and bottom edge and about 80mm on the outer edge with all the corners rounded. the mirror surface was flat. I have seen this mirror fitted on both sides of the car but normally only on the drivers door on HLS30 and HS30. This sujests it was a Datsun supplied part. I can not offer any information about the other types of mirror. Are they retro fitt ? I Do Not Know. This is an interesting subject cheers Steve:classic:

Hi Tom , Your Z looks great. I agree totally with Enrique, forget the individual spring, it is far better to source a complete latch assembly in good condition or new, and save the old one for later or just throw it in the trash. If you are going to do any repair your Z do the best job you can the first time and you will save time and money over the longer term. We do not always save by spending the smallest amount to repair the bit parts. Always consider doing your own repairs. The money you save from not using the shop / mechanic will come in handy for your next project. Sorry for the sermon Good Luck Steve :classic:

Time for another 2c worth. I did not know that the bracket on the 280zx in 82 was fixed to the swing arm I am sure all the ones I have seen here in Australia where held on by the 4 bolts holding the bearing grease catcher to the swing arm. It is unfortunate that you guys dont seem to have any R30 series skylines(MR30HFEM) or (MR30HAEM), as they come with either a drum brake on the swing arm or the (CL11H) 82 style disc brake unit, this means the brackets are interchangeable between cars. Now I am pretty sure that this is the donnar bracket we use here and these cars sold until late 85 so parts are around. maybe your parts guys through nissan in the states might be able to help if you use those to product codes to check for the part lists. Good luck Steve:classic:

Thanks to "280Zone" for you imput I will reply by email when I work out what I will do. thanks Steve:classic:

Thanks for that response quick response Alan. I thought it was a parking switch but the fan symbol, interesting. Thought maybe a factory use, oh well!!. I to suffer from aircon wiring problems in my 12/71 auto it was landed here in Brisbane on delivery and sent to a local firm who installed a locally produced system for 240z, switches on the sliding vent and heat controls extra Fan plumbing and heat exchanger on the LH floor and the factory lower switch position left of the tacho has an amber light to show when the system is active. So as you see your not the only one suffering installed gremlins in the electrical system. Thanks again Steve:classic:

"Alan" thanks for extracting the digit on our behalf again, another great effort. You have succeeded again in filling the void when we just floundered. The collective knowledge is increasing, slower in some quarters granted, but that is expected. I have a question relating to the installed panel in your car (late Model) position 1 demister switch, position 2 LH& RH parking light switches, position 3 is ?????? please fill in the blanks thanks again Steve:classic:

Here is a copy of the cleanest diagram I could find for this IC based ignition The top diagram (sel147c) is what needs to happen. Below (sel149c) is how it should happen. The first time I did this I looked at the diagrm for a few hours first to get my head around it. With time it is very easy to do. I appologise for the quality of the graphic, I have zoomed right in and the detail is intact any auto elec person can make this circuit up quite quickly (no ballast resistor) 12v all the time. These diagrams are from the nissan motor co ltd Japan. They are always so helpful. well here is the graphic Good luck Steve :classic:

I have been looking at the 82 z disc unit for my 73 z it is a GOOD MODIFCATION all the hardware ie backing plates and handbrake fittings bolt up (grab everything), it is younger,the most important it is a supportable common use brake across nissan (CL11 unit). I can not comment on the 79 , but I have operated the CL11 units on an R30 skyline for a number of years, they work really well the only problem I encountered was a stuck(frozen) park brake cable to the right rear. these items have have a ratcheting piston assembly for adjusting up and in some cases this part of the system may jam. Recommend go for the 82 overall excellent brake unit. please post results or any snags. Good luck Steve :classic:

I have modified my 73 z wiring to support the electronic distributor with the black matchbox on the side. the loom incorporates a factory diode, are you familiar with this set up. I found that nissan wiring looms from other models a great source of information, basing my system on 81/82 280zx. I will attemp to scan one of my manuals with a clear loom diagram. I understand the frustration with Haynes, I used two of them in conjunction with R30 Skyline OEM workshop manual to get it right (10 years runnung no problems). I do have some cobwebs when it comes to the loom work but I will try to get you running. My next post will be at least twelve hrs from now with a scanned page. Steve

Thanks to "EScanlon" for the specialist imput, yes I think I will go for a good fully automatic aftermarket antenna (more bang for your buck). I would like to identify the the Antenna control switch loom connector plug at the forward console loom base so as to modify the cd player loom to suit (find a suitable connector plug from a colt or a datsun),imput would be appreciated a picture even better. Thanks Steve:classic:

I just thought I should put this post through about weather seals. I got all my weather seals from Rare Spares in Adelaide South Australia. Andrew has been really helpfull in getting me back on the road. All the seals are RSA brand( Australian) 17 piece kit including outer hatch surround seal. so if you are in OZ and you need seals give them a call it might suprise you. Andrew said he can supply numerous parts including rust repair sections. plastic light covers clear they had 1 pair when I talked to him last week. Steve

dont consider the 240k as a gearbox downer for your z as the two gearboxes are not interchangeable, but you need a good eye to pick it. it is difrent in the mid section and rear extension housing. that is what i have been told, and that goes for skylines up to 1986 (same car diffrent badges). hope this information helps Steve

Thanks to "OzLime240" for the info and part number.The price of $300.00 landed here in Brisbane is pretty steep for the OEM type. Please update me with any aftermarket type detail if it is a good one. Surely this far down the track a tech improved item that looks and mounts the same must be out there. About the rubber I will make up a new post. Thanks again Steve:classic:

both of these methods will get you power. supercharging : roots(gear type) or centrifugal (impeller type) are both methods of increasing power but both require tractive effort to produce power, through geared drive systems. excessive loading and unloading of boost on the engine can cause rapid seperation of piston crowns under certain conditions. these systems can go off the rails if your kit is not complete and well governed. Turbo charging: in any form supplies you with free horespower because the method is known as power recovery technology utilizing power that has been set free (wasted) through the exhaust pipe. I have only seen after market supercharging on L series engines and then only the roots design on on the old group c rally P510 cars L16/L18/L20b engines, and the support vehicles. I have had reasonable success with the turbo charging in the past running an isuzu G180 at 22psi (variable boost) as a daily runner back in 1984 before all the good electronic gear arrived. I just had the old TO4 and twin stromberg side draft carbies and a boost controller. For my money, "boost it with hot gas" and more boost is better Steve:classic: