sjcurtis

The 240k gl coupe is here in large numbers but the GT version is a bit thinner on the ground. Steve:classic:

Thanks for the imput "280Zone" I will keep your offer in mind, are the power antennas new surplus or used, do you have the activating switch for them.

I had one of those twenty years ago paid $800.00 then to a car dealer on Parramatta road. It had aircon five speed with twelve months reg and a defective left hand rear swing arm(bushes dead), replaced the swing arm, car drove like a dream impressed the new owner so much that he paid me $1500.00 just be for the rego ran out (Evil Steve). Seriously it sounds like finding a good companion vehical of the right brand is very hard in Finland. As "Rod" said we have 240k everywhere here, is that a good thing(sometimes). Good Luck with your hunting Steve:D

I have a dilemma. Nice fresh 110 red paint, car reassembly underway, pioneer cd player(model DEH1350) ready to instal but no suitable power antenna for a hole in the rear quarter panel. I request your advise as to a suitable model and brand of power antenna that is both functional and suitable for a 6/73 HS30 . Steve:classic:

I have attached a picture of a plain perspex LH cover for an idea. the rust marks are the screw attachment points, right angle bracket are attached to the headlight bucket at these points sitting on plastic isolators with self tapping screws securing them. there is also a dust seal that goes around the rim of the perspex. you place the cover in position nad use self tappers to attach the cover to the brackets(trick for young players use stainless steel screws and brackets). Steve:classic:

That change over of consoles to accomodate the gearbox change sounds like it is on the money, more reactive change on the Z production line. The timing sounds about right as my 12/71 has the ashtray/lighter forward and choke/throttle in the middle with switch blanking plate behind. I have no electrical swiches on the console. Steve:classic:

All I can imagine with the car rotating is all the fluids running out eg. diff gearbox and such. Seriously I must agree with Mike it seem sensible to reduce the weight right down for the restore then you will get full access to any of the items that may need restoring. Difficult to remove any heavy components if you can not stabilise the item and the rotissery. good luck with the restore Steve:classic:

try again

I found the attached picture of a fully configured late model 240z fwd console panel. I am not sure exactly which country a fully configured panel is commonly found in. Most of the 240z vehicles in this age range that I have seen have only the black inserted plastic blanks or maybe one option(the demister switch). I thought it would make interesting viewing. What have you seen in your area. Steve:classic:

This subject is one I was looking at the other day , both my tail light assemblies have the blanking plugs and that appears to be all. I would say if there are any cars in AUS they would have been redirected off a euro delivery. There may be one or two with the system active I would be suprised as our environment here does not support or mandate its use, it is primarily for use in high density mega cities with on street parking EG in London in the early1970 these systems were a manditory system if you intended to park on the street. So if you are going to get any good information it will be out of the UK or Europe. I have seen a lot of cars here and no parking lights Good luck Steve.:classic:

" Biker " The breather on the L series rocker cover is an air inlet. the reason the factory has the tube like they do to the air filter box is to supply a clean dust free air source. Many of the sugestions Eg a breather tank or coiled hose will fix your problem. the best remedy is to fit either a ten micron filter right on the end of the alloy tube, even a piece of stocking and elastic bands would do as an interim fix. The breather does need to operate with minimal restriction, preferably with a filter , because the pcv valve is in the system causing positive crank case scavenge ( sucking large quantities of air in through the rocker cover fitting), this means if the air is not clean IE lots of dust shorter engine life. I appologise if I have offended with the way I have put the information as I do not know to what level your knowlege of crank case ventilation systems extends. bottom line PLEASE fitt a filter Hope this helps Steve

I just had a look at the classic z register with the engine number you have found on the engine. The engine is the right age for the car to be the correct engine on the tags. from what I have seen on the register for this engine your body number should be in the range HLS30 13013 and HLS30 14373 or just outside that will date the car to about 11/70,12/70,1/71 or 2/71 allowing for production holdups. my money is on 12/70. If you can find the body number that will really narrow it down. Your body number should be on the data plate (TAG), in the engine bay as posted or is there a build plate(TAG) inside the drivers door jam area. hope this will help Steve :classic:

I have been running my 73 tacho with no real problems backing up to a 1982 280zx Hitatchi electronic distributor for about 7 years and the only mod I did was remove the crancking circuit from the ignition (balast resistor) and run a full 12V ignition with a late model high energy OEM coil. In my opinion if you have the equipment on hand give it a go, there are people on line who can help with the small setbacks Hope this helps Steve:classic:

Thats is excellent, I have been scouring every wreck I see for those slippery little suckers, my car had badly perrished rubbers that I have now replaced but only with short life items. From now on I think the auto parts store will provide me with new ones. Thanks for the great idea. Steve

This is an interesing subject to get into, as interior is so hard to chase if it is not black. I have beige as the interior in my 73 z with the outer as Red (110). I found a chart that cross references colour of interior to external colour. Publication SM5E-0S30G0, the S30 chassis and body. Color number Body color Upholstrey/interior color 1. 110 Red Black,Beige 2. 214 Brown Metalic Black,Coffee Brown 3. 216 White Black,Coffee Brown 4. 240 Dark Green Metallic Black,Beige,Coffee Brown 5. 301 Bronze Metalic Black,Coffee Brown 6. 302 Leaf Green Metallic Black,Beige,Coffee Brown 7. 304 Gold Metalic Black,Beige,Coffee Brown 8. 305 Light Blue Metalic Black,Beige 9. 306 Silver Metalic Black,Coffee Brown 10. 307 Blue Metalic Black,Beige 11. 362 Dark Purple Metalic Black,Coffee Brown I think this covers 1974 and on but I am not sure if it relates to vehicles destined for America. As for the frequency of interior colours, no idea, a car sequence five bodies after mine also red (110) had black interior. If someone can find the early production color to interior chart, please share it with us. Steve

Thanks for the imput "dohc", I have spoken to Andrew at RARE SPARES in Adelaide, he has been really helpfull with all the rubbers for my re-paint. I got on to all z spares Sydney and purchased clear light covers at $125.00 AUS on special. thanks again Steve

"halz" three colour charts "spartan" for 1973 are on email they are quite large. Steve

I have just replied to "Eric B" about R200 diffs using the same site through a diffrent entry point then the next thing I do is read your post ("Beandip"), and realise that we have both been at the same site. I think the information at this site is excellent with some great detail for hunting the correct combination of parts. worth the visit Steve

I have attached a picture of both diffs together the r200 is on the left. I got the pic at this site below. The site below has some good information: www.geocities.com/MotorCity/2824/engine.html Hope this helps Steve

I am not familliar with this particular calliper, but I have worked on braking systems for over 25 years ( multi-cilinder and multi- disk). If you have an exposed casting like that it usually houses the oil inlet a or balance port between the two cylinder to provide even pressure distribution. the reason for it being where it is, is cost and room. The manufacturer will only used enouh material over the port to cover pressure related failures +10% for regulations. please do not grind that lump off prior to an internal inspection behind both pistons to confirm it is only excess alloy. Grinding material from break systems components only ever becomes a problem when brakes are in very high use at high temp and you become become the news. Sorry about the sermon, but please move the calliper and the disk first. Best of luck Steve :classic:

"biker" three colour charts "spartan" for 1973 are on email but they are quite large. Steve

I have to agree with "Dazza" If you have a speed problem with the indicators flasher pot swap it out for electronic. The first step is to look at your flasher pot so you are familiar with what it looks like. then either buy a new one from "supercheap" or see what the electronic one looks like, then off to the wreckers as most cars have the same item. BE AWARE you have to make sure the terminal alignment will fit your particular car as this is the diffrence from car to car most nissan cars will have the one you want, fitted into mid to late 80's. The advantage with electronic flasher pots they last forever, any change to the normal mode and or rate of flash may indicate a blown bulb or similar system fault not nessasarily a flasher pot failure. Good luck Steve

here is a copy of the 1971 import colour chips. the two colours not showing are on the flip of this page they are: "tahoe red" - 13320 Group 3 Code 701 "turquoise" - 15039 Group 3 Code 562 No silver or grey there. Hope this helps Steve

"Alphadog" Are you sure you want the 1971 datsun australian build colour chart as this is not a Z colour chart, it covers mainly the locally assembled 1600, 1200 and comercial vehicles. Steve

I thought of contacting Victoria British for thier 17 piece Kit , but I was not sure of the contentand how it applied, after talking to Adelaide I confirmed by parts list and genral disscussion, decided to buy the parts, with Adelaide they had all the parts I was after including the front of door rain water deflector rubber, that are held in with the plastic button clips. Even The Z workshop carries some of the package. Time wa also a factoras my car will need some of the rubber next week for door assembly.. As for all Z parts, until two days ago I thought they had sold all thier inventory of shore, to support the nissan classic Z project. Steve