sjcurtis

The seal set included all the major positions I am now only waiting for quarter window outers surround seals at $25.00. "Alfadog" what is your view on the seal kit price. Steve

A the modern age. Thanks for the hot tip on using the phone. in this case it appears you are right I still have no response from my emailed request. I will say that three weeks ago I sent an Email to the restorer hotline store in Adelaide to chase down weather seals, $700.00 AUS and I had an email responce within the hour, got to love it when the guy who owns the store owns a classic Z. Thanks to "Alfadog" & "Z Kid". Steve will now use the Phone.:classic:

Thanks to "Z Kid" for the info on the supplier in NSW. I checked out the site and it looks good, I have emailed the Z workshop here in Brisbane and I am still waiting for a reply at this stage. Thanks Steve

I returned to the wrecker (bone yard) at Blacksoil to that 260z 2+2 I had a look at the drivers door and it has the alloy lifter fitted. I am not sure if the 2+ some door lifters are the same cattledog part number as the "sport" but it is there. good luck Steve :classic:

Thanks for the imput "hmsports" & "Alphadog". I will try the Zworkshop in Brisbane. If I get no joy I will get on the blower to motorsport auto. Thanks again for the help Steve

I have to agree with "beandip" headlight covers are the go, smoke colour yes please. I dont think I can even get the clear one here in Brisbane. Does anyone know where I can get a set in Australia or overseas(not the model for the fairlady with chrome surrounds), the after market set with rubber dust seals and stainless brackets. thanks Steve

In Australia the 260z (2 seater) coupe came in early 74 followed by the 260z 2+2, (2 seater and some) I am not sure of the in date I think it was late 74, the 260Z (two seater) was phased out here in late 77 and the 260z 2+2 was phased out mid 78. we never officially recieved the 280Z (2 seater) or 280Z 2+2 from NISSAN in Australia. I am not absolutely sure about the dates maybe someone who Knows could help out!! well you get the idea hope that helps Steve

I am not to sure, as I said before about the aftermarket stuff. The oxygen sensor is not nessasary It really only interests the smog fiends in Cali. or a digital fuel managment computer to control the rate at which your catalitic converter clogs up, costing you money and stalling the car. In your case the oxygen sensor might have leaned the mix a bit. I would have thought that a coolant temp switch would have picked off on the pin next to the thermotime switch to cut the start injector in and out. Maybe this model computer direct reads the resistance from the coolant temp and controls start injector internally. wish I could see what it looks like, I am sure we could have your engine screaming in no time flat. Good Luck Steve

The 260z 2+2 is at the Blacksoil motor wreckers on the Towoomba road about 30KM out of town. Steve

I found this by Dave Hoerl and It explains theairflow meter well. Airflow Meter Calibrating & Repairing From: dfh@ariel.com (David Hoerl) Date: Wed, 25 Sep 96 Subject: <MISC> RE: Air Flow Meters If you have a mechanical Air Flow Meter (with a vane and an embedded potentiometer), you can calibrate it. These things are factory calibrated to a spec, not to the car. Metric Mechanic sells for $5 a procedure to calibrate one. Don't know how good it is as I haven't gotten it yet (I ordered it in August, they cashed my check, but no procedure yet :-<). Basically, to calibrate it, you need to first pry off the plastic cover. After that, you position the thing such that you can access the springs and adjustment screws. The O2 sensor is disconnected, and you put a voltmeter on it. While monitoring the voltage, you first adjust one of the screws (probably the arm angle offset) to get a .5Volt reading from the O2 sensor. Then, you increase the engine RPM to a higher setting, and adjust the big round spring tension adjuster so that the voltage is again .5 Volts. If the Air Flow Meter is good (ie, all resistors good, carbon track good), you can get it dead on, and it will now be "calibrated" for your car. NOTE! I'm guessing at what the exact procedure is - so don't follow the above as gospel. Generally, older engines tend to run "lean", so you need to richen them with less spring tension. Good luck. And, if you are a DIYer, call Metric Mechanics. David Hoerl 84 633CSi Okay now that tells you what you need to optimize the running and also to add spring pressure to reduce rich running. with the system now running at good mixture stabalise the air bypass or leaks to achieve a more acceptable idle 650 to 700 rpm with no cold start running. the bosch computer is the basis for the nissan ones, so it should have cold start capability in it. you will need the cold start circuit wired up for ease of cold engine start/running. also check that the throttle switch is not stuck at full throttle (max fuel imput). good luck Steve

I take it that you are running a nissan computer on the L28, if you are running an anilog system then you can reduce your rich run by checking that your cold start valve is closing off( the thermotime switch functions. then go to the mass air flow meter this item has a variable in it other than the bypass air you can increase the spring pressure on the airflow flap lying about the amount of air going thru, that will in turn lean out your running mixture To check for a analog system go to the airflow meter again check the imput wiring plug it should have five contact pins. to confirm go to the throttle valve switch it should have three contact pins. the most probale reason for the rich running is age of the spring on the mass airflow flap, it has gone soft. For the computer you have if it is nissan it will have a tag with part numbers that nissan will be able to date and tell what model it came from. good luck "inject them all" Steve

In my travels I came across a 260z 2+2 at the wrecker1977 compliance. Like a good Practitioner of Z theory I quickly removed the parts I needed and used plastic to secure them before the next practitioner arrived. I scored well. I took my new complete set of door locks with no key to my local locksmith. I requested that he manufacture two keys for this set. he looked at the locks, took the RH lock barrel imput the ident code from the barrel and cut the keys. they worked perfectly. I questioned him about the location of the code he said the right hand barrel was the standard position. I have one of those chicken and egg questions. Does a zee have its lock ident codes on the lh lock barrel or the rh lock barrel ? I take my wooden spoon and stand back. Steve :devious:

if the hand throttle was in my car with a 12/71 compliance plate / then is anyone out there with a 1/72 or later HS30 car with it fitted and if so what is the chassis number. Does anyone have an early 72 without this fitted and chassis number so we can try and see a cut off or change out in production similar to hatch to vented quarter pillars. Steve :classic:

Hi to all I thought I would buy into this little discussion . I know it is a long way past the points made but!!!! my automatic pillar vented shell HS30 001638 was produced from what I can deduce about 10/71 and AUS complianced 12/71. this car has a late style hatch to conform to the pillar vents it has dealer installed aircon circa 71,72 and a choke next to the hand throttle, my ashtray and lighter are fwd in the console. I guess my point is the hand throttle must have gone into 72. Steve

I have managed to get my hands on some of the paint colour sheets for datsun production. I chased theses sheets down when trying to source the colour of my cars factory paint scheme. I got lucky, after talking to Dazza about the ones he got from EBAY, I thought I would ask at the repair shop doing the work on my car. the owner came back with two really dusty lever files,within two minutes I had my cars colour mached (colour chip to screen support inner lip) colour red 110. I convinced him to let me scan the sheets that could be done. dulux/duco/dulon import sheets 1971(2 sheets),1972,1974(2sheets),1975, 1976/77,1978,1979, 1980, 1980/81, 1981/82. Australian local build sheets 1970, 1971,1972,,1975/76,1977,1977/78,1979/80. Spartan paints Datsun import sheets 1972/73 (3sheets). Spartan paints Datsun local build colour sheet 1973. all of the of these sheets are average condition, I can email any of the above but they average 3-4 meg. I hope this information can assist those who want to do a factory colour.

Ijust grabed my 82 print of the s30 body manual, looking at the PD section of the manual it states that manual cars have 3.7 R200 and autos have 3.545 R200 diffs. I have attached the schematic of the R200 take note of the extra size, strengthening ribs on the fwd section, and the large rear raised attach pad for the rear mount bracket R180 does not have this feature, also from the rear the R200 housing normally appears oval when compared to the R180. Steve