sjcurtis

I need to add my 2 cents here, I have enjoyed driving with metal kings, they are fantastic for heavy braking confitions, touring and light club work. Like 'Nacks', I advise caution if you intend to city drive on cold pads you will come unstuck these pads need heating to operate at optimum. good luck Steve

Kirby, welcome to the minefield, the advice you are getting is sound, your production date for a 260z rh drive is about 2 months earlier than your ADR plate compliance date at the outside. what exactly are you short, have you resolved your supply problem yet cheers Steve

In the early 90's A guy had 7 or 8 shells repaired and stored in a place on Marigold street Revesby (Sydney Australia). The guy had a sliding price scale then with the lowest being AU $400 to AU $3000 for a really good shell with a serial under 20. That was then for my money a shell in good repair with minimal rust and a full set of matching tags even a 5/71 shell with a 1/2 and 1/2 build has to be worth AU $1000. By the way what is the body serial. good luck Steve :classic:

thehelix112, Dave the demonstrations I was shown was interestingly enough a comparison of one season running Sydney Oran park in modified production and sport categories for track only cars and a visuals of factory rubber assemblies pulled from other cars of various histories cars that had been wrecked out and my own car in tear down. On this particular car up on the hoist with the struts disconnected from the swing arms the rate of effort to move the swing arms was vastly different. after full tear down visual galling and distortion on one side was evident do not know why and all the cups where nice and shiny. Even the old stuff in my own car seemed better so I went with factory rubber again. Still only use my car for street though no problems, with race application you may have different loading on your car to the car I saw, that will maybe give you a more even effect. hope this will help Steve

Hi EGO2511 I would like 5c of this one. In my humble opinion identifying what you have will be easy according to your question if you have an early classic Z form Japan market (home market) the Manufacturers Data Plate will be written in Japanese. If you have an export model for world sales the Manufactures Data Plate located in the engine bay will be marked in English with the words DATSUN TYPE or in Spanish with the words DATSUN MODELO across the top line of the plate. If you post information from this plate to this forum someone should be able to tell you more. hope this helps. Steve

I have seen a whole range of diffrences when I have been chasing the information held on these plates. The 2 by 2 is the weird one because some of these type plates do not carry the engine number just the 2600 L series information and this appears normally just forward of the battery access panel. For all of the 2 seaters the most normal position for the type plate appears to be drivers side front strut tower half way down with the ADR compliance in three common places along the on the drivers side, most common near the voltage reg fwd of strut tower dirver side. next common on the strut tower above the Type plate, and the other position when fitted is below the washer bottle on the curveture, rolling down the inner guard. the other position is no ADR plate cars dellivered before Dec / 70. the others are missing compliance plates for a meriad of diffrent reasons, mainly falling off from poor attachment or rivet failure. re attached plates tend to be where they fit in. my 2c Steve

Mr C, I will send you all the information I have for conversion to the online format as soon as I can for upload. I am away in Toowoomba QLD on holidays for another week. I will contact you when I get home to Newcastle to affect the transfer. cheers Steve :classic:

The L28 has a number of build combinations because of diffrent heads blocks cranks and compression, these are caused by production changes mainly to meet polution control targets in diffrent markets. What you are seeing is some of the spread that makes up the combinations. The main deviation is for head combinations and some pistons will not run well together in standard form, If you fit a P90 head to an purely N42 built engine it will drop the compression out from about 9 to 1 and give you about 7.5 to 1 great when you fire up the garret but a slug when normally aspirated without any modification. To find variation in pistons under the same head comes down to poor or sloppy work practice. It seems to me if you check the cylinder with the rogue piston, it will have a diffrent bore measurement as well. sounds like Someone repairing on the cheap at some stage. good luck my 2c Steve

great discussion, I have run both the RB30E and the L28E for a few years in completely different body styles, (read as VL commodore & 6/73 Z). I say to all of you who are not familair with the RB30E it is a very smooth and extremely willing engine. A crisp well prepped RB30E on speed is exceptional and free reving, can be an absolute a joy to drive. I would find it hard to discourage anyone from using an RB30E after my own experiences with them. Like wise the L28E is a great package and is highly recommended, I have run the L28E combo in my zed since 1991 has great zZZZZZZZZZZoom mode. I think the decider for me comes down to the cost of operating both types I found the RB combo cost more, due mainly to parts consumption in the ignition system through bit part failures in the standard form, failure about every 80,000-100,000K (not large cost just frustrating and time consuming) My wife identified an RB30 failure on a friday afternoon in South Brisbane to a red faced RACQ repair man who was stumped, she suggested he check the crank angle sensor for damage. He checked and then called a tilt tray to pick up the car. The wife said the look on his face was priceless. finally dont be scared of either combo, both go like cut snakes if you squeeze them properly. My 2 cents Steve

Hi Mick, yes I know I am slack but I have talked to Annette about posting the data as a pdf file on our optus home site, but not quite there yet, I can still email individual files if thier is a specific year group ie 73. As you know I am always adding to the data as I come across more Zeds, so unless I can get it up online it will only ever be a snapshot. cheers Steve

Sean, thanks for the input the information was excellent I have placed all the info in the register. WA has two zeds with 6## numbers and two with 7##, still active in my records. Good luck with the RB resto. cheers Steve

can you tell me any more info on the damaged 240z compliance date body number colour man or auto and such. also how bad is damage. cheers Steve

Hi all, just posting this for those of you that are not aware of this thread. I am chasing build information on 240Z, 260Z,and 260 2+2Z. cheers Steve

This is a very complexed issue. I to fall into the category of filling my hard drive with pictures for personal use. I feel that everything I have "captured" is fair. I take great pleasure in finding that picture of a production variation in components listed on auction in 'J'. I must say I would not willingly display anothers so called digital property in the public arena without expressed permission and identification. any other way is cheers Steve

Rick, the one indisputable change on the shells is the main frame rail length. that 240z main rail below the floor pan stops short of the end of the floor pan, the 260z frame rail continues to the end of the floor pan. I think is possibly one of the best defining lines between the two shells. cheers Steve :classic:

Thanks for that, let me know if you need any thing from this side of the trench. I will see what I can do. Cheers Steve :classic:

Great looking Zeds. Good to see such quality is available for the right buyer. Can you help me with some info, if you come across any production detail for either of these two Zeds please let me know. I have very little information on Zeds in NZ and these two look like they will be around for a while. I would like any body number, engine number, trans type, colours, age / compliance plate, that is any production data plate info even delivery if you find out, so I can put it in the registers. thanks Steve. :classic:

I have to agree with Zedrally, the Targa T is a known Zed killer. As for the Zed in the add, I have no dought it is top notch, all thier work is. For my money, I can buy a lot of bang for those buck in AUS, something that will flash throught the forest, I dont have to leave Sydney to get it. They are surely not looking to sell that Zed in Australia my 2c Steve :classic:

240znz, here is the information you requested. Highly recomend you use a phone or a fax not email. from my past experience, Warren is a great bloke and he will bend over backwards to help, but his weapon of choice is not computer based email. All Z Parts Unit 1 1 - 5 Chilvers Road, Thornliegh Sydney, Australia. Phone: 61 2 9484 8257 Fax: 61 2 9857 2731 Mobile: 0410 549 070 Email: allzparts@aol.com good luck Steve :classic:

I have got one for the list RS30 export spec RH Drive 260z first registered under T reg in the UK in Sep of 1978 so the 2 seater 260z had a good production / sales run. My thoughts on a good 260z in Australia light weight with plenty of power, this would have to be an early Z. I think the late model smog carbies would have been a killer and very restrictive in the power department. Those intrusion bars are useless they may have met the intrusion regulations for ADR but all they achieve is an extra way to set up rust in the door and totally trash the door in aside impact making driver or passenger recovery from the vehicle a lot harder and writting of the door no worries. my 2c Steve:classic:

Datto-Zed, I think it is quite possible that 874 also has same size lines on the chassis rail as you and mayb an event has occured with the factory fitted tank in earlier days, the result being those who fittted the 240 spec tank did not know. cheers Steve :classic:

Datto-Zed, your Zed could have the later spec tank as it is the RS30 tank, as stated before the earlier style tanks where probably excess on the first few batches from AUGUST 73 on. For your own peice of mind compare the fuel feed and fuel return lines( metal ) on the front right hand rail if they are the same size then your tank is probably original. cheers Steve:classic:

Hi all, the picture in the first post ( flyer4100 ) is as stated a 240z style tank it differs from a later 75-78 style tank, in that the later tank is visually identified by the fuel feed and return lines being identical in size where as the 240 return line is smaller. my 2c Steve:classic:

Hi all, list them all I say. Every S30 series ZED we see has the potential to increase our group knowledge even those no longer viable. I grab all the information I can and put it in as reference data. I have been entering dead Zeds in red with an explanation of cause of departure along with production detail and anything different spotted. Gav good to see we are all still chasing the information. for MR C to date in register format 1970 = 24 hs30 1971 = 40 hs30 1972 = 12 hs30 1973 = 30 hs30 21 = grs30 all 15 = rs30 all and for reference data = nearly 500 hls30 and growing. always open for any information on an S30 series. The hardest part about going to public with vin data is as you stated the relationship to the owner. I have some data that I can not release due to request by owner and I hold this information seperate for background info. It would be great if you guys can bring up a workable interface so it can be front loaded by the owners. cheer Steve:classic:

I saw that one today , I agree awsome job. I checked out the vin number and the engine number and I put it down as late 76 build, ( 12/76 AUS compliance). the back end looks well fabricated for the boot lid. cheers Steve :classic: