sjcurtis

The Zed you are talking about (what a great paint job) could very well have been delivered in Australia or anywhere else with those indicators in the guards because of the early build. Some Zeds in that series where delivered to Australia with both front and rear guard lights, just like the HLS version for the states. my 2c Steve:classic:

110 red is one of those colours that can change depending on available light. For my Z to look like the AVTAR for dogma420 I would need exteeme bright sun light and a distance view. To look like the Z picture of mperdue I would think last light maybe ten minutes to sundown or the sun disappearing behind a huge storm cloud. The truth is this colour can vary so much under changing light conditions and sun age damage that any slight mix rate variation would tip the scale away from the standard. I would say that both probably qualify as 110 red just oppisite ends of the mix spectrum. my 2c 110red/beige 73 steve:classic:

kyteler, Sounds like you have got yourself a bargain. You did say 14X6. I can't wait to see the pictures of the Watanabes on your car. Hope the deal goes well. cheers Steve :classic:

zorro, I must say there are a number of us who really appreciate late 73 build 240Z. Faults, sorry I am always full of superlatives after a qiuck blast in mine, only fault is the rate at which the tank will empty when fun is being had. From where you are sitting a 69 build car is still posible but you will have a lot of competition from others out there. Nissan only advise that HS30- build production started in Oct 69 from build Number HS30-00003 but non was released in Australia to the public until early 1970 due to a shortage of engines and other production line issues. HS30-00501 was released Jan 1971, so I would suggest that most of what you can possibly find will be 1970 build with serials below HS30-00501. I do have access to some local Australian and O/S delivered serials covering some of this group, and the compliance details, so if you need any help in this area, PM me and I will see if I can date what ever you find. I think the number of suvivors is probably less than 20 in the early category. cheers Steve Cheers Steve :classic: :classic: :classic:

Z Kid, very nice Chris, love those flares. Did you get a set of long throw bonnet hinges to suit the new panels. Did you get a bumper to suit. Can you get more thru the same route. cheers Steve :classic:

DJACEY(UK), I hope you still have some of the parts still fitted. You know the original accelerator arm from the pedal to the firewall and the brackets at the top. maybe even the lever frame (base). For your installation maybe someone from the states can help as it is HLS build configuration and thier maybe some subtle diffrences. I dont have any spares for this particular system as I have not seen any out of a car that I could buy. Good luck sourcing the parts. To another intrigue, what five speed did you fit does it have a bolted flange to bolt the tail shaft too, or does the tail shaft slip in and out of the gearbox on a splined yoke. cheers Steve :classic:

DJACEY(UK), It all depends which 5 speed gearbox you have fitted. A 1970 A series 5 speed gearbox will match perfectly to an early console in a 1970 Zed. If you have 1972 240z then you would need to run a B series (late series) 5 speed gearbox and a 72 or later console. Mixing the two, is tricky as I believe the shift lever are centered diffrently, so the console match may be difficult. I am interested in your Z, you say it is a 1970 240z, what you have is pretty rare in the UK, is it a left hand drive import or a special import from ?. Is thier any chance, could you tell me more about your Z, the body number, engine number and colour scheme from the factory the numbers should be on the data plate in the engine bay please tell me any other information that may be interesting about it. You can send this information by private message if that is more acceptable. I may be able to help further if I can narrow down the exact age and body style, LH should start HLS30- and RH drive should start HS30- or S30- if it is a home market model. cheers Steve:classic:

The GTX hard top with L28s has a water cooled oil cooler and offset filter attachment it came in either hard top or sedan in manual only with an R200 diff. and as far as I am aware is not listed for L24E,(looks like another retro Fitt). Cheers Steve:classic:

Rusty1, can you please tell me some production information for your Z eg colour, interior colour, manual, auto, aircon , engine type and engine number number. so I can put it in the register for GRS30- you can send it by private message if you want. your Zed is early 74 build and the engine number should be about L26- 46995. cheers Steve:classic:

Rusty1, You are the owner of the sequence NUMBER 692 for a Right Hand drive 2+2 Export Model. Thier are a whole lot of diffrent production line sequenses for S30 series Z but only one for GRS30 cheers Steve:classic:

So are you guys saying that the all rear spring compression rate for super low is higher than it should be or have they sent 2+2 rear springs packaged as 240Z/260Z 2 seater. Did anyone confirm free hight then compressed hight as a check durring install. I think I will be after a new set at 200LBS front and rear and I am not sure if super low or low will be better as I want to have some flex when it is squeezed in tight. cheers Steve :classic:

stevegee, sounds like you have the basic L24E Aussie Skyline engine sold in Aus from 80/81-85 when ADR polution control took them out of Skylines. I am agreeing with Ben on the head, sounds like someone either cooked the original or was after a big valve upgrade to the L24E it should have an E88 late series injection small valve head (standard) with a cam profile (248/248). For interest sake what is the serial number of the L24 block, 240Z blocks finish at about L24-188200. I expect a number a lot higher in sequence. The L24E should of had a " Middle Sump"( normal Z possy is Rear Sump), that was probably changed out when it was installed in the 280ZX. What you have is an engine combo that will definately please if you drive the rev range and keep it on power. the L24E breathing well does hummmmm. My2c Steve:classic:

Z-point , HS30-01342, is definately a 1971 build, most probably mid to late September, to get any closer than that you would have to use the engine number, and some of the other fittings to cross reference. The glove box hand book would seal the issue if it has been dealer tagged, and in existance. My 2c Steve :classic:

Hi all, I just like to add my 2c here I suffer the same intermittent type (seasonal failures) I have got so use to the different fuses going off line that I just go straight to the culprit pull it out spin it around after inspection and refit to the same position. I have also had the situation when apply fan (no operation) re install fuse (nil op), leave the selected position on the fan switch and as you say presto starts working when ready. My fuel injection control circuit relays have two fuses piggy backing the fuse boxes and every so often when the ignition is turned to on no fuel pump, fuse out fuse in presto, pump on and start. I think the major short fall in this is the fuse type however they are known and easy to access. I will be very inteested in what is at the bottom of this maze. cheers Steve:classic:

To all, My source worked (sales) at Capitol Motors in Johannesburg (South Africa) in the early seventies. And It appears that all Zed sales where special order imports based on the RH drive platform. sales numbers where very very low figures of a dozen or so is all. Not sure about the badging but I posed the question as " what can you tell me about 240Z sales", they would have been prime for the HS30 with the Traffic Rules/MOT, roads and fuel at the time. I would not be suprised if some of these Zeds where very high spec items. cheers Steve :classic:

brake handle just visible. compliments to NISSAN AUSTRALIA. cheers Steve

Luke240z, are you going to put some pictures in the gallery, can't wait to see what your 71 240Z looks like. Is your Zed an early or late 71, is it manual or auto. You will do well with KYB they make a good honest product that is built tough. good luck Steve:classic:

For the interest, the AUS delivered 350Z has the park brake handle on the passenger side of the tunnel. So that would mean it is exactly as the S30 to hard to change over in orientation for difrent markets. my2c cheers Steve :classic:

This one is for the guys from NZ. I was looking through the trader and spotted a 1972 240Z for sale for NZ $13000.oo. has anyone seen this car or know any of its production information. for your interest: www.trademe.co.nz cheers Steve:classic:

Mr C, go for it, I am in agreement with Nick I got all mine in Sydney a long time ago for all Sway bar, steering rack clamps steering universal and all four Tockico chrome bump stop positions. No adverse affect. To the rear sway bar if you are going to support a standard setup find a 260Z coupe rear bar not the (rancho wagon) type it is bent wrong and will not fit. I Also HIGHLY recommend Andrew RESTORERS HOT LINE he will go the extra yard to get you what you want. Cheers Steve

Mr C, oops big square fingers

This sounds promising, you may get away with just clipping it back on, worst case you have both pieces and one weld line to come. They normally crack and vibration does the rest, with you ending up with 2 pieces if you atre lucky. I have six doors and only three of these suckers. good luck cheers Steve :classic:

You have found a common problem with the door glass, some do not last to long the bracket cracks and the whole lot goes crashing down inside the door. Durring my last rebuild, I had one dead on the passenger side, could only get one for the drivers door so I had to get it modified to fit the passenger side. If you can identify no damage, a good clean and lube and re install. Position for installation is under the external weather strip about 8 inches from the front, you may have to pull the other one up to get a good reference it just clips down on the ledge and pushes lightly in against the glass and stops rattles. hope you understood that cheers Steve :classic:

With this Zed I think you should look at the engine. The engine number is found on the right hand side of the engine. Below number six spark plug you will see a flat surface on the engine block witht the numbers stamped or ground in in this case it should start off L26 - XXXXXXX the X represents the serial number. You may need a torch and a clean rag to see the serial number clearly. The serial number on the plate will be your body number, this number is also on the firewall at the rear of the engine bay above the brake master cylinder, sometimes hidden by wiring and washer tube. worth a check to see what is stamped there. Cheers Steve

Hi all, this Zed is rare due to its age I would say mid 78 and sequence number is high, some points of note: 1. charge light 2. engine type not serial number indicated on the data plate 3. non inertial seat belts. 4. no eyebrow indicator/parking lamp under the front bar, 5. front bar indicators Any chance of letting us know the engine serial number. can you please look at the white tag on both seat belts as you may be able to give us a production date from them. can you also tell us which county you are in and what is the nearest city. Thanks Gav240z cheers Steve:classic: