sjcurtis

ROOPZ, you have a black lead from the coil with a two pin plug clipped to the distributor on the forward side ( nearest the fan), it is the ignition wire from the coil. now you now what I am talking about I have one question and I think I am probably right is this lead hanging below the intake air pipe from the Air flow meter, if so it is to heavy and occasionally will give a bad contact. Run this wire over the inlet plumbing and make sure the crimp inside the plug engages firmly and your problem should be gone for good. cheers Steve :classic:

I have to agree with Gav240z, the compression is lower range but they are in good percentage across the cylinders. Another hot test is not really warranted, and it is a frustrating job hot. 2ManyZs suggested a cold retorque on the cylinder head bolts, did you get that one done. I supposed lastly I would get it hot and see if I was happy with the power, If it is thumbs up with no leaks problem solved. cheers Steve :classic:

Once you have the ignition timming set correctly, the area to focus for idle speed adjustment is to possibly, two valves on the throttle body end of the inlet manifold, as to the position and type this is market and engine specific, to easily identify to you where to adjust you need to post a picture of the area where the throttle body intake attach, taken from the passenger side of the car. Then better assistance can be offered. cheers Steve :classic:

Hi Guys, this looks like mixture theory 101 BACK FIRE - thru the carby = "lean mixture seeking Fuel". AFTER FIRE - thru the exhaust = "rich mixture seeking Air". These two theories apply to normally aspirated carb & injected and both types of boosted engines using a 4 stroke cycle. My 2c cheers Steve

I would say that another place to look, is look at the electrical side of the cold start(warm up circuit). as you may not have a good connection electricaly to the thermite switch under the thermostat. The book items for to high or to rough idle are: air regulator, fuel pressure, injector leak, cold start valve leak. cheers Steve :classic:

This hight issue, I am sure the home market S30 model had an extra seat carriage assembly that extended the forward reach and also provided a higher ride position. Maybe this factory item is still available somewhere. good luck Steve :classic:

when the oiling of the engine is what you want to achieve, I normally pull the plugs and squirt engine oil in each of the bores let it sit fo about 15 minutes or so the oil moves around the edge of the piston, use this time to prime the carbs and fuel system using an electric pump on the engine side of the engine driven fuel pump when the fuel filter is full of fuel continue pumping for 20 seconds. restore the fuel plumbing to normal check the time. Crank the engine for 5 seconds, install the plugs. Quick scan of the engine for tools and disconnected bits all good fire it up. all being equal you should have arunning engine in seconds. my 2c Steve :classic:

KEINsm, have a close look at the breaker points in the distributor, sounds like you have a burnt set of contacts that may be catching or sticking in operation. The problem of hitting the rev limiter can also be the contact breaker points, if they are burnt out of phase or the return spring is weak. My 2c Steve :classic:

Zvoiture, Now those two pegleg inserts are a sweet look,love the sign writing on the case. I am sure they will be Dynomite under pressure. good luck Steve :classic:

Have you had the throttle body apart from the manifold, if so recommend pull it back off and use formagasket on the mating surfaces refit tightly and whipe off the excess. Cheers Steve :classic:

I do not like that answer, it sound s like all the air settings are screwed up, the adjustments are way out allowing the ngine to run without the oil cap. The oil splash is fine. All I can say here is, you will have to inspect all of the hoses for loose clamps and possible splits also you should have an EGR valve at the end of the intake manifold near the fire wall (it will look a bit rusty around the base), it may not be fully seated (light tap with a small hammer) very gentle. It may be coked up in the seat area below the valve. The fix may be confirming some issues with the temp sensors circuit then adjusting meterd air down to normal when system hot. sorry I am not around the corner, we could probably sort it out in a day. cheers Steve :classic:

drunkenmaster, Thanks for that update, Iwill put all of that in even the 2+2 information as they help in lots of diffrent ways with dating and option /colour trends and such. to the shell I take it this is a goer not being scrapped. "GOOD" is the data plate still there with the factory number for the engine. I will chase you up later about the 77 RS30. i take it from your comments that the 2+2 has a few diffrences, can you expand. Cheers Steve :classic:

drunkenmaster, I have entered all of the information, as I see it two are 1974 and the other probably1977 compliance, can you expand the information, compliance dates, original data plate engine numbers, exterior colours, interior colours, auto or manual ,aircon , mods and such Cheers Steve :classic:

I can only talk from my experience, if you run 225 on a 14X7 rim use them at both ends of the Zed to keep it all equal, reduce the twitchines. If you run reasonable compounds the 225 grip will assist you in departing from the crowd smartly on demand. good luck Steve:classic:

Okay, what you are dealing with. 1. With the engine running at the elevated idle rpm you have an inbalance in the metered air. this inbalance can be from a number of causes, and you have to chase down each possible until all are elliminated, and the correct idle rpm is restored. 2. You also have what you call un-metered air, this is outside air entering any part of the system and in the worst case causing uninitiated engine shut down. The disconnecting of the hose to the center of the rocker cover allowed unmetered air into the system, removing the oil filler cap will do the same. So now it is metered air and the trimming of metered air you need to concentrate on. cheers steve:classic:

It started with TELL ME YOURS I WANT TO KNOW your 240Z HS30 production details. I would like to know the details of your Z, If you have an export model RH drive HS30, RS30 or GRS30 let me know as I want the production details to build a register. My intention is to capture as much information as possible as quick as possible To achieve this goal I need all of your help. I will not include any ownership or suburb detail just nearest city state and country that you reside. To the information. Production body serial number, Data plate engine number Date of production, date of ADR certification or Date of first registration. Original Colour, Colour now, Original Interior Colour, manual or Auto Condition and use. So it would look similar to this HS30-102660 L24173261 06/73 Compliance Manual 110 Red Beige/interior fair condition registered daily driver. mods mags & efi Sydney NSW Australia 12 Oct 03. One variable is date of: M for manufacture C for certification (ADR) R for first registration. Please send in information. Thanks for your input Steve. :classic:

Okay got that. The small hose if you blank off the manifold and the hose what happens. Cheers Steve :classic:

unfortunately the manifolds and throttle body combinations are in the magnitude of about five diffrent combinations. for the age of your Z, I would expect the Bymetal valve (air bypass). Sorry if my previous was confusing. if you lean into the engine bay from the passenger side look for a valve just to the rear of the TB, it has two black hose and an elec loom connector attached, it is attached to the manifold by 2 10mm bolts, at the TB on top the closest hose to you goes to the center of the rocker cover from the TB the next hose over on the TB goes to the airbypass valve. isolate this item (either diconnect the elec or blank hoses). cheers Steve :classic:

Suggest blank the air bypass on the manifold, this can be a bymetal or a black elec initiated valve, if you have the black valve it will be directly below the throttle valve body, just diconnect the loom plug. If you have the bye metal valve it will be on the upper side of the inlet manifold, near inlet runners 1,2,3 with black hoses to it, blank the hoses. see if your rpm stabalises lower. cheers Steve:sleepy:

To all, the highest AUS VIN in the register so far is HS30-103731 10/73 Compliance in Victoria, do you know of a higher serial. cheers Steve:classic:

Does your engine return to 900-1000rpm when the engine reaches "normal running temp" with the timming set to the book positions. Could it be that your warm up system is working efficiently. cheers Steve :classic:

Thanks for the information on your Z's. as you know I am accepting any infor mation you wish to share. I would realy like to know engine numbers as well and if it is original (on the data plate) original colour/ colour know and original interior colour/colour know also any special mods or delivery type detail. To the question of colour batching I had HS30-102660 and HS30-102665 both 110 red one with beige interior, one with black. cheers Steve:classic:

To those bar mounted indicators, they are what gives identity to a 73 HS30, yours is an AUS spec Zed not UK spec as yours had the white parker lights below the bar from the factory. your indicator wires to the parker lights have been turned back at the factory. If you check the bulbs in the under bar parker they normally have dual filaments fitted. if you check the connector plug you will see the main loom plug has a pin missing this is the one that is taped back. If you decide to remove the bar indicators all you need to do is remove the indicators from the bar disconnect the looms go to the under bar parking light loom plug, take the taped back wire and push the pin into the vacant position on the main loom plug and you will have indicators and parkers at the below bar lamp. Then pack the dirty old bar indicators up and post them to Newcastle you know Steve's place, all donations graciously accepted. cheers Steve

yes it is the third listing in the last few weeks for this one. oops I aint no ebay junkie. I have been asking questions of the seller, three times. No prizes what questions I have been asking. My policy is I dont bid until I know what is on offer, I still did not get to bid. I hope the seller gets back to me soon, before it goes off again. cheers Steve :classic:

halz, got the date. To date 85 plus HS30- Z's across the production years about 50 260Z/260Z 2+2. Still after any information people want to send in. Cheers Steve :classic: