sjcurtis

halz, now that is a real pleasure see, this photo realy shows of a smart looking Zed. You got the shipping address wrong thow, all late 73 Zeds go to Newcastle on the East Coast deliver to Steve. just kidding. Gav240z, just thought I would pay out on the comment, but then I walk into my garage on a regular basis to, look, smile and go back to what I was doing. They are just the best, and ONE is called precious, lucky Rick. cheers Steve:classic:

CZCar, Hi welcome. I hope you find what you want on this site, there are a large number of people who know a lot about the classic Z and information in all things Z. What you have here is a site full of like minded people. For anyone to assist with issues about your Z It is important to identify what you have. Can you look in the engine bay for a manufacturers data plate. On the data plate you will find similar prefix to those related by HS30H. So the information brakes down to chassis number and an engine number, these two items if complete with prefix letters will instantly identify your Z. I think you can probably get answers to any of your questions once we all know what we are looking at. hope this helps you Cheers Steve

LanceM, I understand the function of the item you have described. I have always known this item to be mild steel that has been cad plated and the ball bearing lock one piece spring steel. I would love a dollar for every one of these I have stripped lubed and rebuilt. Sounds like you have got the best fix working. Hope you have many trouble free miles. cheers Steve :classic:

LanceM, I have come across these plastics used on the internals of the factory distributor. My experience is mainly with the digital mapping distributor on the RB30 engine, the plastic in this case was a bearing shield. the bearing shield has an important job as it protects the electronic sensory equipment from the fine dust and such that is cause by the bearing in motion. primary cause of failure is normally heat. Nissan normally sell the new bearing and plastic shield as a kit. also if you find the dead bearing and plastic shield it is usually because the sensor module packed up causing you to wait for the tow truck. I am not sure exactly how the plastic failed in your distributor Lance, but please check the bearing as it could be on the way out if we are talking the same piece of plastic. cheers Steve :classic:

240znz, Have you confirmed the leak is from the head gasket area. the pre heater plumbing in the intake manifold is susceptible to corrosion. A leak onto the block on the left hand side at six could be a leak from the rear pre heater hose fitting, dripping onto the block. A leak at six right hand could be the rear head hose adaptor leaking down and staining the block. Non of the above is very likely, when it is happening at the same time, but like Gav240z is saying check every thing before pulling it up. Be very careful with that temp getting to high, when it goes its all gone. I hope you sort it quickly. cheers steve:classic:

Zvoiture, great effort, working thru the frustration. thanks for following it to conclusion. I think we has all kinda thought that Tockico was doing something like that, we know the facts now. To Tockico being another manufacturer stopping production on parts for early series Z, not yet( for USA) so glad to hear that. I wish they had stayed in the AUSTRALIAN market, they pulled right out of the market and we are limited to inporting these fine strut inserts. And we will!!!!!!. Cheers Steve :classic:

Walkingpig, yes if you have information on any RHD 240Z 0r 260z Zeds I am definately interested. please forward any info: Body no, engine no, colour in and out compliance details even extras. cheers Steve :classic:

Those photographs are amazing. thank you Kats. cheers Steve:classic:

zep, when you had a good look at the Zed in pieces did you happen to see the ident tags. I am putting together a register of RHD zeds, and would be interested to know some of the data plate info Body number and Engine number from the data plate , original colour and interior colour. If you do take another look could you let us know, that is if the owner does not object. do you know what year the parts Zed is. was this Zed imported from the big island does it have a compliance date. cheers Steve :classic:

blitzkraig, I two have the unintrusive mod like Victor and Daniel, I use the right hand head light main loom plug to supply power & switching through an extended relay loom. I have had it on line for over ten years with only one or two minor failures, I had a problem with getting the lights to illuminate after long periods of vehicle inactivity, and high beam taking the lot out when switched up ( that wakes you up on a dark night). I found I had lazy switch gear that was at fault, once I rebuilt the light switch assembly and dipping switch assembly, I fixed everything. If you want dual redundancy I suggest using the left hand loom plug to supply power & switching to build a second relay loom set for the left hand lights, that way you should always get power to at least one light. cheers Steve:classic:

280zx Fever, To rule out #2, #3 ecu input to the injectors try the following. You will nead a basic auto elec test light (twin diode type, red & green) about $35.00 AUS if you have to buy one, borrowing is better. Clip the light lead to the fuel injection manifold. with the engine running place the pointy end of the light into the back of the fuel injector loom plug on both wires. the idea of this test is firstly, establish that lights activate on both loom plugs. You should see the light flash at a constant rate on and off. to confirm what you are seeing is correct functionallity check a known working injector loom plug for the same light and rate. also confirm your results for both wires. You could have a faulty dropping resistor or connections. cheers Steve :classic:

Sammy1970, Your last photo of the build data plate had the original engine number on it just above the body number. Unfortunately I can not make out the number from the picture. Could you please have another look and let me know what it is. cheers Steve:classic: Anyone else have info on there Z they would like to share. cheers

280zx Fever, Well that makes it more interesting, my next move would be a fuel pressure check against the book (for idle fuel). If that is good, I would suspect an injector blockage/failure. I would now move a failing position injector to a working position and so on for another operational check, and see if the fault moves. Cheers Steve:classic:

HKSZ, Hi Steve, I think you have a replacement engine, your engine dates as late as 05/77 build. I know the problem with the ID TAG it was a special on the 2+2 notifying engine type and SAE horsepower rating but no engine number. For a block as you have indicated for your 2+2 I would have expected to see L26- 144000 through to about L26-159000. If the number is correct could the position of the numbers be out of sequence, a 0 at the front is a real killer. I would expect it to read L26-175550. as to a L24- block the 0 out the front is to early 10/70 build highly unlikely with your casting mark. as L24-175550 would be 6/73 build. It all depends if the numbers are in the right sequence. Cheers steve :classic:

I have to agree with LanceM I am running 14X7 Enkies with 225X60X14 falkens, very minor clearance problem but mine is to do with my rim offset. With your change you should be able to go out to maybe 215X60X14 with your rim and offset. if I went back to the 215X60x14 I would have about a 1/4 clearance at the spring seat. Sorry I did not address the 65 profile problem, but as you know it changes rolling distance with width. hope that helps Steve:classic:

1 Bravo 6, come on Rick give me a break, I always getting that line from Annette, word for word I'd say. cheers Steve:classic:

Hi guys, maybe I can help I have lots of engine numbers for 240 and 260 in the data base, either post or private message me the full engine number and I will check it across the info I haveand let you know what it is. I will need the info below to cross reference. Can you tell me the body number from that data plate that says L26 and has no engine number area. also maybe the colour in and out and the compliance date cheers Steve

280zx Fever, 2ManyZs has offered some very sound advise on the efi connectors and electrics, and your reply suggests you are happy, that it is not the connectors or injectors. You could still have a number of problems , maybe a blocked fuel filter only allowing enough fuel flow to sustain four cylinders I say a big maybe. mor like below my first advice is pull the spark plugs from the faulty cylinders and change them for one from the good cylinders. See if the problem moves from one cylinder to the next. Just because it sparks when you are watching does not mean it will work in a compressed enviroment of the cylinder. You may be up for a set of plugs. Cheers Steve:classic:

Gav240z, glad to here you got to the bottom of that. 76 degree cam sounds excellent who made it is it internal oiled is it billet profile, let us knw how it goes. I am interested in the mitsubishi dissy you pulled out, amy chance of some pics and maybe the main body part number, as you know I am running mitsubishi and my spare is identical so I would be interested to see what you have. cheers Steve:classic:

240 in OZ, Joeseph, I understand what you are saying. All I can do is ask. I would say in this case could you please ask the owner if he minds sharing the manufacturers build plate information. It is private, someone's personal information about their Zed. If the owner is who I think it is I believe we could be talking about more than one set of data if he is willing to share. Anyway Joeseph can you ask please cheers Steve :classic:

Chris Iglehart, Hi, I have never seen a 1981 ZXT, I would like to. I have seen a number of variations in L28 fuel and ignition management, I believe the ignition package and fuel package is you are running (factory Digital with external crank angle sensor). Your engine should have a serrated pizza wheel as part of the crank V belt pulley on the front end of the crank, below the fan. if you look down at the lower pulley, you should see a sensor module on the edge of the pizza wheel directly below the distributor, recognise the module by a thick black plastic covered lead to the main loom, the module is secured by two 16mm bolts to the support bracket. Firstly is this what you have. cheers Steve:classic:

240 in OZ, hi Joeseph, good to here you are sourcing parts from comparable age donors. To the engine number variations, if you look at the engine number flows for the HLS30 you see whole batches of numbers out of sequence, I think it is the same thing you have seen locally. I think the engines for what ever reason do not reach the end of line for OK and installation, so they return to a restart point could be hundreds of serials behind, can be a production shortage of a minor component, or a defective component batch. Any chance of more info on the donor Zed, maybe compliance, data plate and colours Please. cheers Steve

Rick, That engine number should be on your manufacturers data plate, on the front RH strut tower area. If that engine is in your car I would say it is the original, or it was changed at the factory before dispatch. engine numbers I have seen for that time run from L24 048961 to L24 O54737 8-9 month of that year and your engine falls in 8 month. cheers Steve :classic:

Gav, okay you get an instant hesitation and bang, I think you may have a problem with your distributor wiring. The electronic Distributor wires terminate on a two pin plug into the black box on the side of the distributor, check for loose or damaged connectors, when these distributors are on injected motors sometimes people put the wires under the air induction plumbing and movement gives a similar result to what you are getting spontaneous bang when one pin looses direct contact. The fix on the injected engines is simple you just pass the loom over the top of the air induction pipe so it rests on top instead of the pipe resting on its no pressure breaking contacts. I suppose what I am saying is have a look at the wiring and see if it could be working against a good contact of the two connectors in the plug. now I have more. are you mixing components on your electronic distributor, is it Hitachi or mitsubishi, do you source your parts using the distributor part number. regards Steve:classic:

Zvoiture, I run Tockico "Gold" non-adjustable front and back, when I got them both fronts arrived ( short Cartriage) they where identical and only one spacer between to, the first thing was source another spacer. The shop that did the install said this was so Tockico could build one shock for multiple applications, just change the spacer. I do not like the idea of diffrent travel maybe see if you can change one out with the vendor. the spacer type are good, do not be scared of two with spacers they will work great. The right size spacer spreads the load correctly. hope this helps cheers Steve:classic: