sjcurtis

Dreco, from what I am reading your 240 already has an R200 fitted. The change out you are doing is not to hard from this point. the existing CV joints will be held in with a locking circlip. To large screwdrivers under the inner flange and lever away from the body this will seperate the CV from the body without damage. Remove your existing R200 with drive flanges in place (drive shafts attached is okay) from the vehicle. Sit the two R200 next to each other. Remove the left drive flange inspect the circlip for condition and install it on the right hand side position on the new R200 checking that the shaft circlip locks in and engages. Remove the right hand flange and instal in left hand position in the new R200 inspecting and confirming engagement. Install Fresh R200 into the Z with the existing hardware. I hope this helps cheers Steve :classic:

mdbrandy, That is the correct item, I just thought through the fingure control I use on start= both LEVERS up, turn the key, engine fires both LEVERS half down, engine stabilizes right LEVER all the way down set left lever for RPM warm up. So to that for my Z the levers are correctly positioned, maybe it would reverse with the driving position change for HLS body? cheers Steve :classic:

GG's Z, I am not familiar with the 82 turbo, or the loom change out bulletin. With piston washing overfuel, I would check fuel pressure regulator, If it is using the same fuel pressure regulator as other L series engine management systems, you could have a vacuum pot failure ( split or disconnected vac hose) this failure will cause excess fuel flow at idle. cheers Steve:classic:

mdbrandy, just in answer to the original question, I have a factory fitted hand throttle on my 12/71 auto HS30-001638. deliverd in Australia. Cheers Steve :classic:

Hi Daniel, the X denotes the numbers 7,6 or 5 in the BPR series of plugs in the case above to match what is already in the engine. to enable kyteler to buy the right plug. As to heat range I only ever use NGK, but I believe some brands do the same type of coding. ( NGK rules, other brands only get you to the breakdown lane) I run 82 ZX mitsubishi air gap style distributor with external square IC pack. I run standard 6/82 ZX Annolog injection with all factory components wired in and run trimmed by steve. cheers Steve:classic:

Mr Camouflage, I entered the majority of the information 07 Jul 03. I have just put in colour interior and trans. Not sure what I have on the 260. thanks Steve :classic:

inspect your plugs. the oily dark one replace it with your hot plug see if the miss goes away if yes buy 1 BPRXES to fill the dead plug position. It will get you bye for now. cheers Steve :classic:

kyteler, hi,I am not sure exactly what you are trying to rule out. For my money normal operating plug heat range for the L series engine (not full race) cool BPR7ES, warm BPR6ES, hot BPR5ES, the variables are condition and usage. does this help cheers Steve :classic:

Si|v3r72, Hey that first try was pretty close. I got to agree with 2ManyZs instal hotter plugs I run BPR5ES in my L28 as an every day runner, this change should realy aid the clean burn with a re-tune on any average to good engine. good luck Steve:classic:

Sammy1970, thanks for posting the pics, the first one is a definate special, I think you can win some beers on the number of guages in the dash. The manufacturers data plate has the engine number just above the body number. Because of the location it can be hard to read them, very hard to get with the camera, this time we failed. I always use a torch and a white envolope, when you shine the torch down the reflection of white from the envelope held below and towards the engine makes the number stand out. for ease of reading(a scribe secret). Could you try a manual read on that engine number please. I also note your engine bay is inhabited by some inpressive looking relays (lighting or fuel management). Thanks again cheers Steve

To the repair , on Sunday I had a look at mmirror remains (mirror arm) when my mirror smashed I undid the phillips screw with its washers and and the spring from the mirror case and put it back in the arm for storage. The build is two washers a spring and a phillips head screw threaded to attach in the arm on the door. good luck getting it out. cheers steve

Fred, that looks very good from an Aussie perspective, gets your intent across well. cheers Steve :classic:

abas, Sounds like you have got some hard decisions to make. I have no idea what you do or do not know about these engines. Firstly is cost a priority or are you going to keep that engine. cheapest option could be another engine. If you want to keep the block you need to get the damaged cylinder bore surveyed. You need to know what the recovery number is ( the amount of machining required to restore the surface for continuous use). Best case light hone and find a fresh piston. Worst case you are already looking at scrap. With any bottom end re-work always do more than less, always change out the bearing set, even change out the rods on the early 240 engine with a major rebore you are up for six of the oversize variety pistons. then the oil pump should probably be changed out for new(200000miles). all those corroded alloy parts should go for new. new water pump maybe. That is not all but it gives the idea. Other scenario contact a major zed parts supplier, price and availability of a rear sump L28, (hot run and with compression test data) mortgage your next palace and you are away. cheers Steve :classic:

Sammy1970, excellent , boy did I get a shock with that picture, I see what you mean by limted ADR compliance. I was impressed to see a compliance plate, I expected the Manufacturers data plate. any chance of a picture of that, or just PM me the roiginal data plate engine number. It sounds like a lot of money has already been put in on your Zed. Even the engine bay paint looks reasonable. Your Zed is the highest number HS30-00230 I have put into the data base so far for 1970. Just need the original engine number please thanks for your efforts Steve:classic:

Sammy1970, I am curious you say you have a 1970 240z are you sure, is that on the rego or do you know by some other means, can you tell me the body number also what was the engine number on the data plate in the engine bay, maybe I can tell you more. To these bigger engine instals and re-engineering to compliance I think the mainroads people are trying to keep a lid on power to weight ratio. To the round top Hitachis these are the number a great setup for the L series if you have them. They will run well on any size or build combination they are easy to set up and they will hold a tune for months if they are in reasonable condition. with regular checks and some singer sewing machine oil to keep the lube between the lines they will do the job well. To the water manifold on the round top Hitachi carbs Number one reason for this part being disconnected is a corroded tube or fitting leaking water out of the system. Check for this problem if there is no leak leave a water flow through from the thermostat housing throught the manifold around the back of the block and into the heater return line. This loop is designed to aid cold start and cold running ( others would say they are polution control but that is not the whole deal. good luck with the carbs Cheers Steve :classic:

Gee, to information what you have put in your post is great stuff if you can give me the same for your brothers Zed and your friends Zed I will enter it all in. any delivery info dealer delivery date anything at all that may be interesting or relevant, first plate number. Sounds like you have been to the same specialists as me, show you a rust bucket and tell you it is gold bullion. Red is around, a mate down the road has a 9/73 white/red Interior. Can't help with last build number. Hurleyz, Donny thanks for all your input, I hope the dealer can tell you what you want to know. Cheers Steve :classic:

GEE, that is a realy high body number for an export HS30 Z. I have a question, what is your Data plate engine number and is it Higher than L24-189875. cheers Steve:classic:

Geoff, if you had my interior you would cry, off white and badly sun burnt lots of top edges are gone and as you know light colour interior is very thin on the ground. I totaly agree you should always maintain your own plan no matter what. It is all about what you get back when you put the effort in. I guess I will get to Eastern Creek soon. My neighbor Shane went down this weekend to get some ideas on now to set his 240Z. He had a spare ticket he reckoned but I was headed for Taree. good luck with the track cheers Steve :classic:

Geoff, thats probably the right thing holding yard, or could it be the shipment allocation number for delivery to Brisbane. I wish someone could tell us. As for your interior when I saw the 110 code, I remebered the colour and condition of your interior (spotless) comes to mind. A great Zed all round. cheers Steve:classic:

Well done Hayden, that search was worth the effort, very impressive colour, great score. I hope the resto goes well. You have to post some more pics for us. Cheers Steve :classic:

g260, Geoff excellent information, great depth. Thank you. I have put everything in. Your Zed has the lowest serial I have seen so far. From memory yours has the good light interior too. I am intrigued by the Z 167, could it be Ira Berks holding yard serial. could it be one of the key codes. I wander Thanks again cheers Steve :classic:

Hurleyz, The information was good and I have put it in. To the build date the build plate is located I believe inside the drivers door opening, if you sit in the drivers seat with the door open look next to your left shoulder in the door opening and you should see the build plate. For your 240Z it should say build 5/70. I think you have got a great project. Let me know what the build plate said. good luck Steve:classic:

Hurleyz, Welcome, it is great to here you and your son are into the resto. I am sure you will both find hours and hours of enjoyment working on your new 240Z. I wish you the best of luck with the resto. If you have any tech questions on any system or part on the 240Z the guys on this site are arealy helpfull bunch, and they know a whole lot. Donny, to the production details your 240Z is a real interesting case because it is a 70 the body serial and the engine serial can be crossed up. So before I put the information into the data base can you tell me the following in order please. HLS30 - L24 - Build date - - /70 Trans - Exterior Colour Interior colour This info set out like above will let me put it straight in the data base. Cheers Steve :classic:

Rick, I have been collecting a few numbers as you know and it appears that HS30-001224 was buit in 08/71. This is based chassis numbers behind and infront built in the same month. Can you complete the engine number from the nissan data plate in the engine bay L24-05XXXX. cheers Steve :classic:

abas, Hi Andrew, Welcome. If this mirror is what I am thinking it is, you are not going to be to happy. On the inside of the mirror case the stud has a tensioning spring, with the mirror reflector in position you will not be able to confirm the health of the spring hence no retension unless you get really lucky. If you know someone who is a metal forming specialist / coach builder you will save damaging the edge removing the mirror, that is the key. if you are prepared to fit a fresh mirror surface you may save the day if you can relock the new mirror clean. I wish you luck. I see you have 2 Zeds are they both HS30's. cheers Steve :classic: