sjcurtis

drunkenmaster, I dont think you should have any restriction running injection without that extra line. I run a 6/73 HS30 Zed with injection and no problems. I will say though if you can get your hands on another primary fuel supply line from a 2 seater fitt it up in place of the original small return line ( 240z problem), or did yours already have two lines the same size from the factory it was one of the changes nissan made for the intro of injection on the S30, I do not know the dates. Cheers Steve:classic:

Thanks Z Kid, Sorry all, a bolt of lightning for me. I do remember also seeing the system in a late 2+2 260z and I think it was causing a weird problem at the time..just cant remember the exact fault. Cheers Steve :classic:

drunkenmaster, The system is designed to capture and burn the evapouratung fuel vapour, with a vapour lock in the tank when you open the cap to refill. I think you will find only the very first HS30 Zeds had this feature, after that it was dropped ( read cost) as our pollution control was not stringent enough to require the system fitted. I dont think it even appears on the latest of the RS30 production Zed for export. Cheers Steve :classic:

Thanks Joseph, I will put your HS 30 Zed information in to the spreadsheet, I am raising. I will not put owner detail in just area, state and country ie SYD NSW AUS and the date entered that way no one will get upset. Slow old process, do you have original engine detail. Chears Steve:classic:

Hawkwind, I have followed back through the thread, I saw all pictures, the Zed you ended up with looks good. You said the Zed you bought was 10/71 I was just curious as to the HS30 serial number. Cheers Steve :classic:

Thanks Alan, for the clarification on the wing mirrors. This information should be very useful to the Australian members of the site, wanting to utilize these superbly fashioned items as part of their S30 package. I guess it is now up to the individuals to take up your offer of assistance. Thanks again Steve :classic: apologies: back to the thread topic

Just a side track, I have just viewed the attachment supplied by ( HS30H )a front on view of S30 diamond mesh grill on the right and along side on the left hand side is a clearly marked representation of the HS30 grill. For my 2c is the reference data primary (OEM documentation or secondary (Non OEM), as the picture clearly shows wing mirrors on the HS30 picture. This would represent proof that this is correct fitment for the HS30, maybe not in all but in some markets ( Hong Kong and Singapore or Malaysia maybe). At least it provides leverage on the local registration people here if it is primary documentation. just curious. cheers Steve :classic:

Hi Alan, I agree with the view every HS30 has provision for the rear sway bar. Australian delivery appears to have been sporadic with rear sway bars. Both of my Zeds came into my possession with no rear bars. I investigated both sets of mountings appears never installed. On enquiry with local agencies and repairers, RS30 appears to have donated most HS30 rear bars in Australia including mine. As for the early delivery HS30 500 and down I can not offer comment, as I have had not enough exposure. With the R180 I agree that clonk will always be there in some form and it is amplified in the S30 rear end, due to design considerations. I guess what is important here is the premis that the clunk will always be there with an R180 in some form. The trick is to determine what is normal for you. I have found the semi elliptical trailing arm system and rigid front diff mounts on 240K, R30 Skyline and 510 with only minor differences to each other suffered a lot less from the clonk affect ( an exception can always be induced with power application ). Cheers Steve:classic:

I believe the Serial HS30 you have would have had a front sway bar as standard. The rear bar could be an optional one but I do not think it was deliverd like that. You would have to show digital pictures to get a clear idea yes or no for what it is. For the clunk in the back end, a number of individual things by themselves can give the clunk. Loose top canvas strap (front diff mount), worn diff (increased backlash) failed or failing half shaft universal, drive shaft universals, and the list goes on. You can check rotating bits easily and also establish backlash conditions in the diff. Best to get it off the wheels with it out of gear and the hand brake off. then play around with the rotating bits feeling and looking for play. Spin a wheel by hand backwards and forwards you should feel the backlash as you change direction. Hope this helps Cheers Steve:classic:

If the hand throttle is not working, it may be disconnected at the attach point, check in the cabin next to the steering column it attaches to the normal throttle set upat the top, you should be able to see it clearly with a torch when you actuate the throttle lever. Cheer Steve :classic:

Here is, looking from the back LH R200 and RH R180 notice the R200 is larger with a more rounded look. cheers Steve:classic:

With those pivot positions, I went with "Factory New". When I installed my fresh R200, the shop techs told me that factory rubber units for those positions was best then they showed me why with demos of condition and movement from race/road/and rally use. Reason + the existing system works and is not subject to early failure, after viewing my original items I considered that opinion as on my rubber units only light distortion was present with zero movement from original production.I installed as stated circa 1991 never had to revisit these pivots. So for the rear go rubber. Cheers Steve :classic

Yeah I know some clutse has five thumbs. Gav, thanks for the info I had no idea that the early series export model HS30 did not get sold here until mid 1970. I have seen a single serial HS30 in SYD in the mid 90s but the history was not traceable and the condition was not good either. This guy must have a good story to advertise it fo sale as what he is saying. Someone in Melbourne needs to see the car and check the documentation. I wish I was in Melb so I could go round and get some pics of it. Thanks again Gav. cheers Steve :classic:

Hi Gav,

For all the boys in OZ that want a low production number, I just found this in the Melbourne trading post. Has anyone got a look at this car, or possibly taken pics. MELBOURNE TRADING POST 7/12/03 DATSUN 240Z, AUST. delivery Build No. 91, only 300 1969mdls built worldwide, good condition, stored since 1995, paintwork average, body & interior orig, ready to RWCert. Vin.HS30-00091, $12,000. (0417) 786815 Pearcedale. cheers Steve :classic:

I use urethane on my 240Z 6/7 73, on all positions on both sway bars. On both steering rack mounts and the steering shaft joint and both radius rod adjuster ends for the street. I also run all four srtut urethane bump stops. Highly recommended, go get them you wont regret it my 2c Steve:classic:

I just want to jump in here for my 2c. The information that KATS has so graciously shared with us is ground breaking stuff. Yes these discussions are great reading when you get input from ALAN and CARL, two people I think we all have great respect for, both are very well read and have established set positions that are hard to dispute (sometimes). S30 build on the production line in more than one guises from the start. My point here is the marketing strategy was brilliant, ramp up all production on all lines. Release the HLS 30 to the American Masses on ship and a prayer. Creating a good home market product and a growing sales position. Hold an ace up the sleeve ( the export HS30 SPORT ). Yes I say from my exulted position above my sunlight soapbox, " If the HLS 30 had fizzled on the dock in San Fransico Nissan would still have created history with the High Spec Export HS30 SPORT ". This was NISSANS black powder that it was keeping dry. An S30 sibling still under raps with the best export pedigree yet to be tried. I now climb down of the sunlight and hide under my box. G'DAY Steve:classic:

I am suspicious of the of the locator pin hole spacing. I was sure that the pins for the NISSAN auto badge of that age group are closer together, like on the P510 and the 240K autos. My 2c Cheers Steve :classic:

BartZ240, When NISSAN built the Z they already had an established practice of manufacturing sets of locks/ lock barrels and keys for each vehicle. In your situation with no delivery documenation and no original keys, there is still another option. All Datsuns have a master barrel assembly in the door locks. Either the lh or the rh door locking barrel that you put the key in will have a set of code numbers stamped in it. with those numbers a good key cutter can cut a key to the correct profile. This fix will cover both doors and the hatch and the glove box I am not sure about the fuel cover, on Australian Z's this is a standard feature so it would be covered as well. As for the ignition barrel I can not offer a solution if the keying is diffrent. Hope this Helps Steve :classic:

Agree C production thats where it got started, a lot of other diffrences in those engines to run the high octane fuel. I dissagree with the rational that repositioning the cam within the three dowel hole range will affect operation adversly when utilizing poor fuel grades as legislated in by the State legislators, a lot of other engine build considerations come into play. I do not know what restriction or fuel you are running so I can not advise there. To my own situation my cam is a standard profile "smog" Z cam set up to position three, all gear was as new at engine build. My last smog test on this engine was CO 2.11% and HC270 PPM with unleaded about 87 Octane fuel and that was carried out under full test conditions by the Pollution Control Commission of NSW. I was well within optimum range and the engine was passed as acceptable. I hope that someone can advise you guys for the California Requirements. Good Luck steve :classic:

what if the box does not bolt up I am not up on the Pintara boxes as I do not know the engine series they are using is it Z 20. I do Know that the R31 Six is an RB series and I was told that the RB and VG series engines will interchange boxes, because the attach patterns and imput shafts match. How does that go with the L series And Z series. I think this is an issue as well, just becuase if it can go wrong it will. cheers Steve:classic:

It sounds like you have an L series engine about to go for the long rest at boot hill. With that breather problem, your crank case is pressurising, so you will be better off fitting a hose and jar set up to the hose, or run the hose down the outside of the engine so excess oil can flow off when you back off. for the spark plugs, spark plug cleaners are like sandbasters that you direct the flow into the coked up end and blast until clean. you can do this as much or as little as you like with each plug. re-gap you plugs at every removal and if you are pulling plugs alot use the TQ wrench so you don,t screw a thread as well. The situation sounds serious and these are all short term fixes. If I where you I would start planning a strip down and repair or find another engine. good luck Steve :classic:

looks like you got some good information. Can I just add, set up on position 3 if it is not to late,The L series Six loves it there for some reason the four cylinder l series engines like position1 and position 2. The v notch is good up high on the slot like that if the rest of the alignment is good. cheers Steve:classic:

Those 2 keys on E BAY. From what I have seen in Australia. The left is identical to the single key from the 69 model 510 delivered in Australia. The right key is identical to the ignition Key for 71 / 73 240z. cheers Steve:classic: