sjcurtis

Can I recommend keeping the flow route from the rear of the head to the forward T piece/ radiator hose fitting, this flow allows for an even temperature sink through the engine at operating and warm up, it eliminates any sediment build up at the rear of the head in the fluid galleries this may not be a problem short term if you intend to rebuild the engine every season and use a good cleaning process but if you intend to sustain the engine for years in this mode you may set up for a problem be it blockage or component failure (head). For piece of mind keep the flow, change the method to stainless steel aeroquip style fittings at both ends a similar inside diam and get a stainless steel tube fabricated to install between the two. this method will overcome the hose problem and keep the flow, allowing for disconnect at tare down time My2c cheers Steve:classic:

Nigel, is there any chance you could post a list of what you actually got in your package from the states. I am interested for myself and I think Dato Zed may be interested in a similar package. If you don't want it on the forum could you PM. cheers Steve:classic:

17MPG for in and around town is good I agree I would expect at least 23 mpg and the highway with the automatic. and only a resetting your advance curve may give you a bit more. As for ZedRally those are great figures "from your driving" I think they are bogus as everyone else has 65litre tanks or are yours 160litre tanks and you left the 1 off I agree with Victor Laury Z driving is about adrenalin flow the more the flow the better you go. cheers Steve:classic:

That oil pressure switch/ safety sounds good pulling the relay when the low oil pressure light would illuminate, this should mod should easily merge into any fuel pump relay diagram. The Mercury switch method is very touchy and adjustment/serviceability check could be interesting. but reliability is also questionable as some types develop memory and others don't take corrugated roads to well. I run a safety in my fuel relay circuit in the form of an in series Nissan diode plastic covered(black) forward of the radiator support to cut fuel flow in event of a frontal hard impact. cheers Steve :classic:

ZedRally, thanks for that. It is always nice to hear the basis for the Z passion. I guess I was just hopping you had been extremely lucky, and another good CAMS Group C car had survived the trees in the southern forests. Does your chassis conform as a 260 or 240 underneath, I take it the additional plating and bashplates are fitted. From the CAMS requirements you must be talking, I have an alloy cage why steel, back to small brakes and carburation. cheers Steve :classic:

drunkenmaster, VH45DE is the designated V8 engine of the INFINITI V8 sold by NISSAN Australia circa 94, so your hunt can be a local one if you want to instal some NISSAN V8 grunt. cheers Steve:classic:

Zedrally Does your 240Z have any features that are outwardly different to standard production as we know it for a 240Z delivered in Aus. Did you get hold of your Z as a going concern,competitive club rally car or did you work it up for the dirt yourself. I don't no of a later HS30 serial in my area ( lower hunter NSW). Qualifiying statement: I always have an eye open in case one shows up at the right price. cheers Steve :classic:

Trex, have you checked the main chassis rails. The two main chassis rails on a 240z should stop short by about 6 inches from the rear of the floor pans, if the chassis is late enough and it sounds like it is if you have 260z style tail lights you may have the longer rails that go right to the rear of the floor pans. Also do you have two large rubber plugs under the rear bumper bar (covering the cut out holes for impact absorbers). Does your Zed have aircon in the dash as part of the package . Cheers Steve:classic:

Bruce, that 280Z of yours looks great. I have to say the exterior colour looks magnificent, I have only ever seen two Zeds that colour in the flesh and they were 76/77 manufacture but both looked magnificent in the sun. Has your got Black beige Coffee or Brown interior with that colour, is it the factory Gold Metalic 304 or is that just a great grab at a good colour for a Z. I also noticed you have early style bumper bars and not the Federal Impact absorbing style. Thanks for putting up the pics cheers Steve :classic:

I had a poor grainy photo of the 74 compliance plate so i typed all the letters and numbers. THE ADR'S ARE EXACT. THIS VEHICLE WAS MANUFACTURED BY NISSAN MOTOR CO (AUS) P/L TO COMPLY WITH AUSTRALIAN DESIGN RULES NOS 1 2 3 4A 5A 6 7 8 10B 11 12 14 15 16 18 20 21 22 23 24 25 27 28 DATSUN 260Z SPORT 2/74 OOO647 GVM LBS SEATING 2 THIS PLATE IS AFFIXED WITH THE APPROVAL OF THE AUSTRALIAN MOTOR VEHICLE CERTIFICATION BOARD All you need now is the photo of a complete engine bay, and a copy of ADR,s from Main Roads. good luck Steve:classic:

240Z I think you have really hit the nail on the head with the package low HP change for the small change. I opened the front of my airfilter housing up to assist with free flow thru the standard 280 paper elememt fillter and housing. I really get a good air flow acceleration with significant reduction in restriction over the standard 280Z config ( read "roars like demon when serious RPM is applied"). I have allready got the high flow/match ported intake and plemmum runners with Hemi combustion chambers on mine and the mid range to high range operating mileage is very good. I think a healthy airflow meter and good un-metered airflow management helps though. I am still interested in about a 65 mm TB as I am operating the twin butterfly model it is not that bad, but I would like better. Cheers Steve :classic:

MicksZ, I suggest you talk to Warren at ALL Z parts in Thornleigh Sydney NSW. Warren normaly has them as an on special item., for about $125.00 AUS. http://www.allzparts.com.au/special.htm Cheers Steve:classic:

It's got to be gunmetal.It's got to be gunmetal.It's got to be gunmetal.It's got to be gunmetal.It's got to be gunmetal. did you get that gunmetal is the ultimate colour. WHERE ARE YOU GETTING THE "Watanabes". Steve:classic:

240Z, I think you are probably enjoying very good acceleration from the standard system anyway if your inlet air ducting is right up front. I was told to head towards 60-65mm plus tb, tb type is open as long as you increase the butterfly size for more air down low but with an annalog airflow meter we are still restricted. I guess its trial and error to overcome the any real airflow shortfalls from the front that are encountered. I have never heard of someone changing back. I will also be very interested to hear any of the spin on this mod someone must know how to do this properly. cheers Steve :classic:

Brett240, The moving carpark on Sydney roads kills Z engines for a number of reasons. I used to drive Richmond-Mascot and Mascot-Richmond dailly for a while saw some high temps doing that. With thermostat choices and supply, I now it is hard but shop around. You need a thermostat that will fit straight in "Bulb down", ideally an all stainless steel construction with a bleed by hole in the perimitter land ( this coud have a borbal attached). Look for quality in the build. Also for Sydney traffic go for a low temp value to give you early opening, even the coldest of these will warm quickly and clear screens in the mornings. With you fan system is it restricting flow through the radiator core when you are mobile, effectively not performing to optimum mobile, I still use a clutch fan to minimise this. Hope this helps Steve :classic:

Hi, This is a good discussion on a great topic. I agree with the 2 types of G nose theory,if we state " 2 types of GRP base G noses with Metal attach fittings and hardened rubber Bars. Both of these two basic Nissan items I would say could include radiator and ducting baffles/ guides and lower lip extenders as bit parts depending on application and source date. To the "METAL G NOSE". It could be said it does not exist, and after reading this thread with all the current wisdom available I would say never happened. Reality: I trust my eyes when it comes to what I am looking at with fabricated metal structure. I have been scanning the YAHOO, JP sites for a while and on one such excursion to the pictures on a garage site. I came across pictures of a G NOSE sitting and obviously being sorted for a retro fitt to a Z or fairlady. there were about five diffrent shots of a green G nose with rust marks at the attach points probably from normal mating metal to metal. I did not think to much of the marks, I just put it down to the metal fittings on the GRP. Another picture caught my eye. "Fabrication" What I saw was rivet lines and spot welds under the green paint locking the fabricated structure together forming all the channels and plated airflow direcion control surfaces internal. I can say that the the internals were done in such away to suggest stamped metal fabrication of the small metal interconnecting parts welded or riveted together. The G nose appeared to be in very average condition. A lot of the fabrication was around the drop away for the brake cooling guides inner end. The flow charecteristic of this lower section was very standard single large area for radiator flow and brake cooling guides falling away to the rear on the extreme outside lower inner surface lh & rh. This particular G nose although well weathered, appeared to be well engineered and fabricated, to much so for the aftermarket boys. Yes I will take the hammering on this, because some idiot cant find the floppy I saved the pics too. Since this thread started I have tried numerous attempts to find that site again with no luck, at least now you guys will keep your eyes open for it on YAHOO JP. Not a complete metal nose set, metal in the internals of a lower section( possible grp outer). Had to say something before the thread finished, the yeti is out there. Steve :classic:

Alfadog, In Australia Nissan delivered the RB30 single carb engine for a few years in the Y60 SAFARI or (GQ) Patrol ST30 Petrol in Aus. This engine will match up to the 5 speed from Nissan for the RB and VG series engines for fittment to a Z. My2c Steve:classic:

Nigel, good to hear you got Tockico and all the good bushings. You definately got the right brand. They are exceptional when you work them hard. Did you do an upgrade on your spring package at the same time. cheers Steve:classic:

nickbean, good to hear you chased down that mechanical noise to the valve rocker adjustment, great to hear it was not oil pump. cheers Steve:classic:

That baked on coating, the colour is indicating age heat and oil type. If you had pulled the sump at say 3 months after engine build you would of seen a light brown fine film that cleans off quite quickly in the parts bath. Add five years many ours of hot hard running and you get what you found. It will be back. Sump Fitment Place sealant at the front and rear joint points (rear main bearing cap to sump gasket edge & front cover plate joint LH & RH). When fitting up cork gaskets use a light film of aviation forma-gasket then tension up the bolts to manufacturers spec 4.3 to 7.2 ftlbs ( caution be aware that some gaskets are not made to spec and may split and push out under pressure) ideally the correct scenario same all around with a thin film of forma-gasket visible at the outer edge of the gasket the residual forma-gasket in the gasket holes,on the bolt threads locks them for you and prevents roll back. To the other positive crank case ventilation system (gas recirculation) issue quick check, if you back off your oil filler cap, engine running uninitiated shut down should occur if the engine is correctly sealed up. Other check, disconnect hose at PCV valve, plug the hose, start engine, a hiss should be heard from the valve if it is working properly. The air flow is in from the hose to the manifold thru the Valve. Cheers Steve :classic:

Temp affecting oil pressure, Hmm I have seen this problem in many forms, what I have read on the previous replys I must totally agree with 2ManyZs the mech guage is a must, you need to know the PSI variation. The one I have not seen is (Engine warmed up) you stop at the lights oil pressure dropping down indicating low when you leave the lights and off down the road revs build and oil pressure returns to normal. NickBean If you have associated mech noise change in the engine you have an oil flow problem stop shut it off before you loose it completely, check quantity & (most probable cooked oil pump) lack of flow. In this situation check with pressure guage immediately to assertain pressure and flow. I have heard of big power engines flashing out in 10 seconds when that 20c spring in the oil pump fails. My 2c Steve :classic:

I have one of those. "240Z" I found a complete column mounted switch unit in a 260Z, 2 by 2. I grabbed it because it was in good condition and the button was on the end of the indicator stork and the best bit, for $5.00 AUS from my local wrecker in Brisbane. I wreckon I got a steal. My 240Z did not come standard with this option. It now lives in my spares cupboard Cheers Steve:classic:

I did not get mine from this spot, but when I bought mine, I was then told " they are cheaper at Mustang Auto Parts Brisbane". I do not think you will find cheaper than the price below XY GTHO Parts. GTMR MIRROR - DIECAST EXACT REPRO 95.00 RH GTML MIRROR " " 110.00 LH Site Address http://www.mustangautoparts.com.au/Falcon/FbadgesExtrim.htm Cheers Steve

That 260Z Looks great is that factory red. I only fitted the two vent covers in the pillars and the bonnet front. My reason was to reduce any chance of future rust in the hatch or the guards. I figure you can read it is a Datsun on the Bonnet and if you look at the pillar you see the Zed. Cheers Steve:classic:

I would say for quiet driving it is never ever going to be totally wisper stuff because of the cars design and where we all sit. I will say for the quiet the under tail shaft flow thru is a must. For the rear position, I normally got thru mufflers to get the right one at replacement time. Last change in Dec 02, I settled for the MERCURY glasspack 2 1/2 center in offset out. Nice around town, crisp in traffic, still gets loud above 4400 with power on. cheers Steve:classic: