sjcurtis

looks like a straight on hit with bonnet bowing down also the rh lower front edge looks reworked a bit too. After seeing that, look forward of the headlight ears, below the headlight buckets. You should look low down just above the main rails you should be seeing wavey/ creased metal or even cracks if it happened with force. This is where the impact force would have finished up and is rarely repaired. Cheers Steve:classic:

Hi Bruce, I got to ask any chance of some pics of the 280Z, showing the conversion or even some shots showing what you have changed. When you do get back to the Big Island look us up if you come threw the Newcastle area. I guess the ditch is getting much smaller now we are all getting to this site. Do you have many Z people in your area, or are you in the desert full of HON@# & TOYO*&% cars. Cheers Steve :classic:

Here you go, from the drivers perspective cheers Steve :classic:

I like my mirrors in racing red! my 2c Steve:classic:

240z, sounds like a bit of bad luck with the filter. I recommend pull the airflow meter reverse flush with air pressure to dislodge any dust and sand, also check the flap moves freely with no restriction, if you are happy refit. I think you should look for a better filter element, it sounds like your filter paper is not fine enough. You should have only very fine dust below the filter that only lightly marks a white rag from one filter change to the next. I use a 77Z standard housing with no top cover fitted (standard filter element costs $10 Aust) It is RB30 filter element for Skylines and VL Commodores very common here and a good paper element. Hope this helps you. Steve:classic:

To fstr240z, I hope you make a quick and complete recovery. It will be good to hear your up and around again. We are all thinking of you. Steve

I agree with the Deftly Daft one it is good to see we have more than one opinion on a subject, and debate lives. I think we should reframe from public flaying of the individual and keep it all above the plimsoll line. When flaying is on the menu though, at least give the rest of the Turkeys enough credit to strip back the crackling for themselves. As for Samuri, a very interesting subject. My 2c Steve.

Thanks Trex, for taking the time to put this information in print, it made great reading. I did know Big Sam had history. I did not know much about Spike and his efforts, but nothing of the (L) tax plated road car. As for Win Percy he is an exceptional bloke. I was fortunate to meet Win Percy a few years ago here in Australia. Thanks again Steve :classic:

Hi Guys, Just me Annette, Steve's wife...just have to say that all belly button fluff is blue...yes they have done a study on this and no matter what you wear or who's belly it comes from...apparently it is blue...I just had to comment..my 2c Annette

AVGAS from the pump, the bowser at ORAN Park pumped avgas for years, I never though anything of filling up before going home after the meet in the 80's & 90's. even the occasional 20lt drum for ron. Burn rates and addatives are the killer with avgas. they nearly killed the Australian General avaition fleet in 1999/2000 by F@#%$^** up the mix rate by a thousand to one for one additive. LRP is fraud it does not protect or stop the effect of Zero Lead it just takes your money as and acts as a placebo while your engine goes thru its normal degrade to end game. they just found another way to suck money for nothing. For my money pump ULP into the tank and rebuild as or if required, you will save money and have peace of mind getting there. Important = Oh and re-tune for unleaded. Cheers Steve :classic:

I thought a standard valve seats on the E88 heads where hardened. Did the states other than California get a diffrent spec E88 head with soft valves and seats. I had heard that the E88 was the first of the zero lead tolerant heads and was a change driven by the California smog requirements. cheers Steve:classic:

Is 280Zx correct terminoligy for a S130, or is it a 280z. just curious Cheers Steve :classic:

What an excellent choice. Good to see it arrived in one piece from Bris-Vegas. Love that engine all those cubes, with power and reliability in one. Annette, my wife won the bet, she said you would buy the V8 Z. When you decide to go test driving, try out your new found reliability in a northerly direction, come up to Newcastle so we can get a good look over the new Z too. It looks great but some of us did not get to the nationals for a close look ( read drool). cheers Steve :classic:

I a going to add one of these babies to my shopping list for JUSTINE (just in case). I would hate to get caught up for the tow and find a moustache bar on the day. Cheers Steve:classic:

For me a 300hp L series is exactly that 83/280zx turbo with full drive train, high flow TO4, big intercooler, after market injection and management system. But the real problem here is the prep of a classic Z to handle the power increase safely BIG BUCKS. My 2c Steve:classic:

AH!! the plot thickens. Wonder if this is a more regular problem than we thought. Steve:classic:

The rap around feel you get from tye existing dash will dissapear if you could get the 70-74 dash in it will appear to small and also far away it the 83 shell. All the function hardware is totally diffrent the electronic an vac plumbed climate control system will have to go and a basic heater aircon fitted. the biggest killer is the wireing and the space conjestion that would be created you will need a wheel wrench to get it all in the new dash. For my 2c find an old Z drive it if you are happy keep it. cheers Steve :classic:

Hi Guys, this looks like mixture theory 101 BACK FIRE - thru the carby = "lean mixture seeking Fuel". AFTER FIRE - thru the exhaust = "rich mixture seeking Air". These two theories apply to normally aspirated carb & injected and both types of boosted engines using a 4 stroke cycle. My 2c cheers Steve:classic:

I vote that Ozzy Guy is an import all the way from Europe but I dont know where. cheers Steve:classic:

I think you will find the center instrument finisher (vent and control cover panel) is to wide and does not tapper sufficiently to fit into the space on a 240Z dash. The map light that ocuppies the top position in the 240Z is also not compatible with the 260Z finisher. The contour also prevents the fittment of the 260Z map light. cheers steve:classic:

I agree with Alfadog and go further it would have a shoe horn on the boot to get the driver in and out. I too hate the lights and would love to see a retro change the door handles same. My2c Steve:classic:

I am running 2.5 pipe off a H&M Header set into a Hot Dog (read reasonator) just behind the gearbox and on to a glasspack at the rear. I got some reasonance problems in the last few months when I changed the glasspack at the rear. I even got the glasspack swapped off and a diffrent brand fitted the reasonance stayed. This all happened on a system I have had no problems with for years. I took it back to the shop for checks, for leaks and body clearance checks. My reasonance was at low RPM. I serviced the air flow meter and everything returned to normal no reasonance (perfect). "Sometimes we have to look out side the circle" my 2cents Good luck Steve :classic:

That is an interesting mod on the forward mount. Is it similar to the mount the Zed Workshop in Brisbane is offering for sale. I would be interested in just how stable it is under load, hard to monitor though. I still have a strap on top tensioned down with a fresh lower mount, it is working for me but I am not producing big HP, I only run the standard Zed stick profiles. Good luck with the new moustache Bar, the drags should check it right out if you can stay consistant in your bracket. Cheers Steve :classic:

If the out put wire is black it will piggy back black on E in this situation. Steve :classic:

on page 146 of the haines manual fig 10.4 shows at the top the connect up position for the wiring. accepting that the two pin plug will just clip in, then at post A you should connect up wire white with red line. at post E you should connect up wire black. both A and E posts are clearly marked on the rear of the assembly. E is a bolt head, secure under. good luck steve:classic: