sjcurtis

I think , if your engine still has life, and we can be positive that a decompression plate is fitted, then you will see lower numbers for pressure. You could probaly expect, Janspeed set the engine up in the range between 7.8 and 8.5 as the Compression Ratio. So I think this could be why the numbers are low, as well as worn engine. Lowell Marx, is on the money whith his suggestion, can you try the bleed down check. I still think though you will have to callculate the engine rebuild into your purchase price, as it may operate for a while, but it may not pass the inspection for road use in France. This is your guess. It would be very good if Janspeed can give you information for this car. Good luck Steve :classic:

I have run into a problem with the headlight switch fitted to my 6/73 240z. When the switch is actuated to position 1 the parkers and tail light illuminate, moving up to position 2, all existing lights are still illuminated, no low or high beam, no power to the fuse for the low and high beam lights either. Does anyone have a fix for this problem. please help Steve :cry:

Lance Pull the airflow meter up to gain access to the filter end and see if the gate valve is moving freely, if it is seized solid use boeshield or some sot of spray lube to free it use a screwdriver to work it back and forth until it moves smoothly again, remove excess fluid and refit. I would also look at the fuel rail for a leak at the back of the injector, where the short hose fits or may be a loose fuel clamp. after that I guess set your ignition up again. hope this helps Steve :classic:

With a decompression plate you can get low pressure readings on the guage, when boost is applied it will normally improve pressure significantly. It is a steel plate that looks like an extra gasket below the head. good luck steve :classic:

I agree with the pressures as they appear the engine wear is constant all cylinder are deteriorating together as far as pressure goes it is low but ask why they are all low could be the gauge. Warm the engine before doing the check. Did you see a decompression plate between head and engine block. The L series engine will drop pressure to the rear (6) with age so don't worry to much. As long as the pressures are close together it will all go smooth. The 10 % is a guide, this engine if it does not blow to much smoke could still run for a while good Luck Steve:classic:

Hey guys can I tell you some stories about lash pads. I used to think I new it all , had a good 510 with webbers and an oversize L20b bought a great cam billet profiled to works numbers with yes you guessed it lead lobe internal oiling. well got the head fully serviced new valves and springs in. got home had all the right gear set the cam in used the original lash pads that I had. Everything went together sweet it all looked great even the wipe on the rocker pad was looking good. Absolute hero, WRONG, I drove off from Townsville to Melbourne the next day 3200kms (roughly) For the first 500KMS car was a legend sat on 140KMs for two hrs at a time between towns. The second half of the trip the performance started degrading with minor increase in rattle. I new I had a problem at glen Inis so I limped down the New England highway to Singleton then through the putty road to Penrith. by this stage I was not getting anything like normal 80KM max. went to a mate called BARRY at DATSPEED. Pulled the rocker cover all looked good except all the cam lobes had troughs in them so next to no lift at the valve the hardened rocker pads run through the trough. This was caused by not centring the contact point correctly and effecting a lobe over run basically destroying the hardened surface. I had a cheaper regrind cam fitted and lash correctly set up, oil flush and webbers retuned. A very expensive exercise. For my 2c please get it professionally set up. Cheers Steve:classic: :classic:

240z in OZ, If you look at the compliance plate the colour other than black appears to be 918 Kalhari Tan, a Dulon colour that is the right age for a Zed with a chassis number HS30 00738 compliance 5/71. So My guess is that Zed Came from the factory as 918 Kalhari Tan. My 2c Steve:classic:

My sentiments exactly George, I think Carlos just sold another good Zed. Hawkwind, when you can, let us see some pics, and tell us all what The new Zed is like. Its a great investment enjoy it to the max Cheers Steve:classic: :classic:

The thrill of the drive. I must admit when I started down the coast I was a bit side tracked by all the failure possibilities on the trip, but then as we all Know the Zed draws you in as you drive and the mind set changed, well there ended any chance of Zed failing on this road, up went the rpm and out stepped bullet proof Steve, and made for most enjoyable run to Hornsby. As for the weather, I just spent hundreds on new seals all around so I felt super confident. Annette packed our rain coats in the back, didnt see a drop of rain when we were on the road. I think European weather would be very trying on even on the most dedicated Zed owner, good luck. cheers Steve:classic:

I think we are all enjoying the chase. I think over the next few years as what remains of the classic Zed fleet around the world becomes more visible to the online community, we will get a much better picture to set the records straight. hopefully we can work threough all te build annomolies as well. Cheers Steve:classic:

RogerZ, I must say I have not found a good supply of belts from another vehicle type. I think you will have to find an early 260Z or 240Z to provide the belts. There is the possibility that replacement belts may be available thru Z spares suppliers. If you after second hand: Try Carlos at http://www.sportsclassic.com.au he has a large inventory of 240Z/260Z second hand. If you want to chase new surplus: Try Warren at http://www.allzparts.com.au he gets all different types of parts in from Japan and other places. Hope this will help you good luck Steve:classic:

I made it. Went on a cruise to Hawkesbury Heights, over 3 hrs (down in daylight) from home and 3 hrs (back at night) to home no breakdowns. Got on the motorway north of Newcastle set up in 5th with the rpm at about 3700 on the Tacho all the way to Hornsby (used minor bursts of throttle to separate out from the occasional traffic). joined the moving car park on the roads thru Pennant Hills, Thornleigh, turning for Castlehill, Kellyville and thru Windsor to Richmond. Short run towards Penrith on Castlereagh road to Agnes Banks, cross the Nepean on the rickety old low water bridge at Yarramundi , then of exorcising the suspension up the pass to top of the escarpment to Hawkesbury Heights lookout. That is one place the Zed excels up tight winding steep climbing roads. Sat around with friends for a few hours. Then back to the drive the thrill of the drive started well descending rapidly from the lookout to the coastal plain, short high speed run back towards Richmond then pedestrian rate of about 55-60 kph through to Hornsby half a tank of cheap gas 97 cents a litre for the run home. Back on the motorway with virtually clear road in front as it is already after 8pm start running with some faster traffic at about 3800-4000 rpm for a good 100 KM towards home get passed by two cars at that speed just before a fixed speed camera, I am sure they achieved a citation if the camera was fitted, moved back to the earlier speed after clearing the speed camera zone. got home feeling very happy with the run all systems worked well. the exception was the beam light circuit threw the light switch, I had made a jumper lead with switch before the trip connecting from the tail light circuit fuse to the RH headlight fuse supplying power to the relays in my beam circuits and gave me faultless lighting It is a good get around. I am happy that I can travel long distances now. how is your Zed going for reliability Cheers Steve :classic:

I run a H&M header for 240k on my Zed, the secondaries had to be realigned at the front end of the gearbox to meet the tunnel access correctly I also had to make a joint at the end of the header to facilitate gearbox change, but that has been the only problem. The primmary pipes are square port to match the p90, thats what sold me. Assess your need sometimes minor changes when the system is new may save you money in the end. My 2c Steve:classic:

The only one I know for sure is, at the lower attach point for the seat belt, a white tag stiched to the belt, carrys a production date. Other items carry dates like interior lamps wiper motors even the interior plastic panels did have stickers on them, panels marked with a Showa date, which relates to the year of the reign of the Emporer. I am sure that most people call out " ALAN HELP ME " at this point as ALAN has posted some great info about showa dating of Zeds. Your problem is convincing the MOT people that the sum of all parts dated X means zed dated X no tax here. Hopefully ALAN can give some good guidance about dating Zeds. Cheers Steve :classic:

Escanlon, thanks for your information on the foglight system power and wire connector position. From your discription, it is two wires from the wire bundle behind the fuse box is that two clear plastic covered individual connectors or is it one of the long thin stacked cream plastic coloured female connectors. George, That is interesting obviously there was a large transport time to Britain for delivery. I think your Zed is a 73 production (early)Jan or Feb, can you cross reference some of the parts maybe even the seat belts for a manufacture date. I think my Zed was produced about late April or early May. Using the vins two months = 700 built, just theory. What do you think. Cheers Steve :classic:

Rick, I protest. I always get the banana skins in without lifting the back up, it takes the high pitch squeel out, quiet things down a bit for a while. I just worry when the day comes when I am driving along and it goes quiet behind, is that just before I see my back end going past. Seriously these back ends can be a very interesting proposition. good Luck Steve:classic:

when you are finished trying around Brisbane and you can't get what you want quickly. TRY http://www.netwarehouse.com.au/mainpage.html The guy to talk to is called "DREW", he has his own Zeds, he sells all the rubbers and he is quick about three days from Adelaide to Brisbane. Try them. Cheers Steve:classic:

Michael, I do not no if there is a surge tank. When combined with the 280zx external fuel supply hardware it is better or has a better surge capability than my 240Z tank, it has worked for me. I have run this set up for over ten years and have never had a problem with running out of fuel durring heavy operation, no cavitation ever when I am driving. I run the L28 5speed R200 diff, puts a smile on my face when I use it. cheers Steve:classic:

Alphadog, No not like the fixed back (look home market), and no not like the gallery. Yes reclinners cloth upper (like a nylon weave) colour same as both pictures. The gallery car interior looks like the GL. Cheers Steve:classic:

For the baffle and fuel line problem, select a late Australian 260z tank, use the standard plumbing configuration, you will find the outlet and return are the same size. This setup should be more to your liking . I also installed a second supply line to replace my 73 narrow return. my 2c Steve:classic:

Alfadog, I can not be really certain but I know It is all about trim level. Mine had diffrent interior to the GL better finnish and realy smart seats,stereo was two piece and diffrent to the GL. Under the hood and running gear same asfor all ADR cars. The good cars didnt get to Australia through Datsun delivery. Cheers Steve :classic:

Alfadog, Yes I was a REV HEAD 1600 Modifier, I have experienced the thrill of big cubes, locked diff, 76 degree cam,with the ultimate thrill, flat pedal, sucking 45 Webbers on a Datrally in the dirt with plenty left in the tank, You need to experience the 1600, to truely appreciate the Z. I owned a Gold with Black interior 240K GT full option pack back in 1984 and I thrashed it, that is where I got the taste for the L series six good and strong. Sorry I do not have anything left now. cheers Steve:classic:

Hi George, good to here back about the manufacture date. Sounds like your Z was a month or two later on the production line. You probably find your Z and Ben (Z Kid) late 240Z are close in production age. Ben put his chassis no VIN HS30-103353 up earlier. Mine is VIN HS30 102660 even with 700 Z difference in production number they are all similar in build, final spec. When I got my Z the previous owner had put the bumper indicators under the bar in the fog lamp hole. As for the question on loom position, the two indents in the dash on the left of the steering wheel, I run cigar lighter top, and hazards through the standard loom position low, I would suspect that the switch position is the top hole, I do remember extra connectors on the loom behind the dash at that point. Cheers Steve:classic:

I stand in both corners, I have owned 3x1600, 2x240k coupes, 1xr30 Skyline. Now 2x240Z Its just got to be datsun, 1x GY60 (GQ)wagon 4.2d Nissan. As you can see some people have a foot in both corner. My 2c Steve:classic: :classic:

Bpaccaud, These oil seals have been standing so you get two diffrent seal failures, the valve seals dry hard in possition and wear out from being brittle. Check, warm engine accelerate and come back to idle fine mist at idle then burst of smoke when you accelerate again valve seals. Turbo bearing seals, these seals dont like sitting they flatten the feather edge with the main shaft when stationary the longer it stands the worse it gets. Test with a warm engine you should get small puffs of smoke when off idle 1000rpm+ for 2 minutes if the puffs are a lot is worse. if the turbo seal is realy bad put finger in tail pipe at back of car you should feel oil, if not look at exhaust joints under car fo oil dripping out. If the turbo is really bad there may be external leaks at either end of the centre bearing housing where the oil goes in and out. This may save you taking the turbo off. my 2c Steve :classic: