z e r o

Thanks Blue!

Here is an inlet manifold by Cannon. Linkage unknown.

Photo references! Edutainment! Add your photos with descriptions of your carburetors, linkage, inlet manifolds and related parts so we have a visual reference database. So here are some photos of triple Dellorto DHLA 40 with unknown manifold (Datsun 240Z cast into the bottom of the manifold), linkage, and Warneford Design (Bap Geon) air cleaners.

I came here to research, saw this forum and thought, it must be in here! Finding no topics at all, I may as well let you know what I am hunting. I have a set of triple Dellorto DHLA 40s with 30mm chokes, inlet manifold, and linkage. I found a nice fuel rail at Datsun Spirit. Its for a weekend street car. A 260z with a rebuilt motor, bored to 2.8 with stock cam and distributor. As research does, it leads me to a question. The question is what to do with the timing? Ive seen people say to use a 280zx distributor, disconnect the vacuum advance or block it off, send it off to be recurved, use an aftermarket system. I kinda understand you need more initial timing at idle like 15-18 with triples, and that manifold pressure drops pretty low making the vacuum advance not work properly. Im not sure what to do. I have some spare ZX distributors. Do I have someone recurve it, or is there a better alternative? What do I need to do for a good solid set up for my car?

To the OP, do you get the 5 second fuel prime before you crank the engine?

I own 2 1980 280zx coupes. One is a GL the other a Deluxe. Both manual transmission. All 1980 zx used the dual type vacuum control on the distributor. The vacuum diagram in the manual is wrong. Its not the only place the FSM is wrong. Its rare, but it isnt the flawless word of god most people tout it to be. Ive never seen a working dual vacuum control for the 80 zx. I have 3 broken ones. They are extinct. Your only hope is to have it rebuilt, or route your emission system to copy another zx with the single port vacuum control on the distributor.

I have one. The rubber one that is correct for the car. Make an offer and I will consider it.

No resolution in the thread, it became more important for me to look like a monkey because Im a beginner. You may find parts helpful. I will keep you updated as progress is made.

We are fleshing out the problem at zcar.com. Read up on the thread called `Never ending problem.' When you get around to testing, compare what you get with the threads info.

That would be great but we are going to need more help. Do you know anyone on here that may be able to help? I bet there are several people on here that could guide us in the right direction... I just do not know how to get their attention. Do that bat signal thing.

Tested the TPS at the ECU and the part. It passed. Adjusted it by the instructions for the TVS section. That made no change. The problem is still there. Any thoughts?

Its pretty easy to do with a multimeter. I can walk you through it. It would help me if I could compare your test results with mine. Having results from a known good AFM would be better, but I am willing to try anything at this point.

Geeze... what a basket case this car has turned into. Its a 1983 turbo, federal, 5 speed. I got the car, and it had a stumble/hesitation/loss of power at light or part throttle pressure while in the 2-3k rpm range. Manifold vacuum at idle is 20, so no major leaks. Fuel pressure numbers are good. Cleaned the under hood and ECU connections. Did a tune up, ngk spark plugs, cap and rotor, pcv valve, fuel filter, new oxygen sensor. Swapped in a spare TPS. ECU rebuilt. Nothing, no change and the problem is still there. Try to cruise in 2-3k rpm range and you get loss of power/stumble and backfire in the exhaust. Press the gas it picks up and acts normal. Let of the gas, it acts normal. Light pressure on the throttle is where the problem is. Went to the 81 turbo supplement and did the test for the AFM at the ECU plug. Should be 240-400 ohm. I get 199, a fail. Instructions then say test AFM. I get 199 again, fail. Bought one from the classifieds. It failed too with 201. Tried it anyway. Problem still there. I need some help and advice. I dont know what to do. Went to a shop for help and thats how the ECU got rebuilt. They are dumbfounded and told me not to drive in that rpm range. (Wow, great solution) I called the other z shop in my area and they told me they dont like working on turbo cars. (I am alone.) I have nowhere else to turn. My skill level is low middle area. Please, I want to know what my dream car is like to drive. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thats odd, my early 260z had factory air conditioning.