Kurbycar32

Thanks guys. I wasnt aware of the top gear indicator switch.

I have a 5 speed manual transmission that I just pulled and cleaned up a bit. I have read the following articles and i think i have identified it as a wide ratio 5 speed due to the fact that it has two mounting ears on the tail and the spedo cog bolt is at 12 o'clock Technical Information Page ..... Transmission Differential Ratios What confuses me is the three sensors located on my transmission. Logic tells me that one of them should be for a neutral safety switch, one of them for a backup light and theres no need for a third. The third sensor was also disconnected on my car. Can I get a second opinion:

I considered an engine swap. Among those options were ford 5.0, LS1 and a VQ35. Realistically i was going for 250 to 300hp which a basic junkyard v8 could provide with minor effort. Ultimately i found it more cost effective and infinitely easier to buy a worked up inline 6 as a direct drop in replacement and meet the same power goals.

I turned it in for core. Everything looked rough when I pulled it. At least one valve was stuck, the valve seats were all wasted, the pistons were pitted, half the threads were stripped in the head. I did find stuff that was once cool, but its all junk now. Before deciding to buy a new motor I inspected this one and did what I could to keep it moving but I was new to Z's and wasnt able to identify specific parts like I can now. This time on teardown i knew what I was looking at

I used the windshield seal from the Z store kit without issue. also FYI the vintage rubber door seals for a 260z have the same fitment problem as the PRP/MSA/BD system. In my discussions with VR i found they believe they found a previously unknown rubber composition specific to 260'z and are working on reproducing it, but its been almost a year since then.

Tesla: not sure they can be topped in this subject

Things learned after complete tear down: 1. This has a mild cam in it: Schneider 274F 2. Flat top pistons 3. the head is an N42, but there are no fuel injection ports for it. Rebello said they have only seen one or two of these in person, but there are no issues with using it. That explains why it took me several attempts to get the idle circuit perfect.. It also reinforces my theory that somebody loved this car, I'm guessing in the 90's.

Budget double the posted price for any of the racing experiences. They charge for insurance and other fees. The one my brother did advertised "on a track" but it was actually a set of cones set up on a skidpad that was located at the track

I hit up Vegas at least once a year. We might have different tastes in life but I go for the fine dining and entertainment. My typical day is usually sleeping in until about 10am, have a glorious breakfast, spend a few hours in the pool and then get ready for the night. Night starts around 5 at any decent looking bar followed by at least a 4 star dinner then one of the fantastic shows. Ka is amazing and rock of ages is an inexpensive blast. The cheaper cirque du soleil haven't been very good (mystere, zarkana). Stop by a half price tickets stand before 2pm to get legit discounted tickets. I live close enough to drive (7 hours) but I'm not aware of any wrecking yards in the area or even anything Z related. Machine gun experience is damn fun if your even curious about guns. The grand canyon is a whole day trip as its a 4 hour drive in each direction just to get there and back, but a helicopter tour can do the whole thing in under 4 hours if you have $400 a person for the flight. The hoover dam can be on the way if you drive but leaving from Vegas its a 5 hour bus tour filled with retirees I suppose just like an inline 6 Vegas fun is a function of cubic dollars Where are you staying?

Old motor out!

when I was refurbing my parking brake I totally removed the cable, then used a cable lubricator for a motorcycle. First I sprayed in wd-40 to clean everything out, compressed air to removed the wd-40 then cable lubricant. one of my other hobbies is dirt biking so I had a cable lube tool lying around, but gravity and light oil will give you the same effect. This is what i used

Seems to me theres probably $40 worth of parts in a rear drum assembly. I suspect your springs are worn out or the brake adjuster in the drum gave up. In either case a full brake job seems cheap enough to just take the shotgun approach to this problem.

I would imagine this early 260 would weigh close to a 240 and neither of them would be approaching 2600. Franky my car weighs lots more than it probably should with all the stuff I added to it, and I weighed it with fuel and tools inside

The early 260 had hideous bumpers, but not as bad as the "park bench" style on the late 260. Thats subjective I suppose Nope. Custom door panels with generic aftermarket windows and locks kits. I mentioned those because they all add weight that wasnt there

I was curious and got the car weighed. There were no attempts at weight savings here. The car has power locks, power windows, larger battery, sound deadening material, aftermarket seats (not sure if thats + or -), a false 3/4" wood floor in back, speakers, amp, tools, about 1/2 tank of gas and my cup of coffee . Any weight savings would be from my removing the hideous bumpers and spare tire. The motor is a 2.8l with dual weber dvg carbs and an unknown 5sp transmission. Hopefully this helps somebody

I used to be of the mindset that bodywork was less important than a running motor, now I'm the opposite. Get the straightest rust free car you can with an engine in almost any condition as long as its all there. Motor work is much easier to do in your garage than bodywork. here in CA its literally illegal to paint your own car with anything but lacquer, paint options are extremely limited due to environmental requirements and the equipment required to shoot CA legal paint is cost prohibited. On the other hand you can do a complete rebuild on a drivetrain and nobody says boo

Correct, they wont be brighter. I used these: #3893 MINIATURE BULB BA9S BASE, T2 3/4 12V .333A, 3893,#3893,#3893 MINIATURE LAMP,#3893 MINIATURE,#3893 BULB, #3893 LAMP, #3893 INDICATOR, EIKO#40659 The real problem is that these gauges have bulbs in the back, that reflects off the sides and actually are lit from the front. LED lighting doesnt reflect well so it doesnt come out looking that great

My recommendation: Abort the LED mission. Pull the gauges, clean the insides, paint the inside walls white and use new brighter bulbs. If that isnt enough bypass your dimmer: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/51875-converting-led-bulbs.html

They did actually. The first one looked OK at first but after deep cleaning they found a few cracks that were not repairable. The second head was warped, and again too far gone to repair. The third head looked OK even after cleaning, they started doing the head work and found a dark spot which ended up being aluminium corroded below the surface likely as a result from sitting exposed to the elements. I am not a machinist but my experience has been to check the following: 1. has the part been exposed to the elements for an extended period of time 2. is the head flat or warped 3. clean the heck out of it and inspect thoroughly including for discoloration These parts are getting old people

Small update and change of plans: Rebello has gone through 3 different N42 heads (2 purchased for this project) and ultimately none of them are serviceable. Since I have a functioning N42 head on the existing motor the plan is now to pull my motor first instead of having the new motor ready when the old one comes out. Motor removal party July 13th

I dig it! that green/silver car almost looks like it was sectioned together at a body shop

Wrong direction! Here in 'Merica we practically breed assholes here, and we welcome them into the country.

Oh Canada: how i miss you and your delicious donuts for breakfast, sandwiches and soups served on a silver platter and the feeling that the entire country is a gated community that blocks assholes at the border.

Glad to hear you got it all working, keep that car rolling!

Using DOT 5 requires that all of the rubber parts of your brake system be resistant to silicone based fluids, to the best of my knowledge those parts arent even available for our cars. Given the uncertainty of what the PO did I would flush the entire system with DOT 4 brake fluid, not any type of petroleum product or a solvent. I always use DOT 4, its the same general chemistry as DOT 3 plus some additives so its completely compatible and has a higher temp rating, its also required in modern cars and motorcycles. Theres probably no downside to using DOT 3 though. Always use fluid from a brand new sealed container A complete flush is certainly something you can do at home but it will take a few hours and lots of pedal pumping. A mechanic with a power bleeder could probably do the whole car in an hour or less so you might consider outsourcing the job.