Kurbycar32

I dont see how the electric fan and fuel pump are related, except maybe you bumped something during the header installation. Did you adjust your carbs to compensate for the new header? Installing a header increases the breathing ability of the motor. Your motor is now sucking in more air and it needs to be compensated with by adding more fuel, if you haven't accounted for this your motor is likely running way too lean and running poorly. Lean conditions make for hard starting, excessive engine heat, backfiring on deceleration and a few other things. You did the right thing by checking the spark plugs but if you dont have a bunch of mileage after you changed the pipe the plugs may not read white or light grey yet, a symptom of lean conditions.

Just today i found some heater cores listed at the datsun store. Oliver is a way cool guy: http://www.datsunstore.com/index.php/page/2/sort/2a/cName/heater-vents-and-ac-z

Kazoku I have owned a early 260z for about 2 years and have been pleasantly surprised that most repair parts that I need were available at the local auto parts store. I just walked in and ordered gaskets, hydraulics, a starter and dozens of other things. When they didn't have the parts i needed I ordered repair parts from www.rockauto.com. The Z store www.thezstore.com/ is a great place to find Z specific parts as well as www.blackdragonauto.com/. A nissan dealer in texas still stocks parts and i have purchased a few things from them as well: www.courtesyparts.com. If you come across something totally impossible to find Z specialties have their own personal datsun junkyard and can get used parts www.datsunstore.com/.

My local radiator shop had no problems getting one for my early 74 and it was in much better condition than all of the big box dealers.

Funny: LeonV I totally expected you to hop on here and give a recommendation since you're in the area. I assumed Rebello was going to be overkill but while their website is fancy, I havent heard anyone recommend them yet.

I need my N42 head serviced but there are no reputable machine shops in my immediate area. Can anyone recommend a machine shop with datsun experience in the northern California or bay area?

Normal people would use the UTQC when shopping for tires to compare tread life, its almost like a benchmark. I think the idea like Arne says is to just make sure you have "street" tires on your ride and rather than a complex set of rules they just adopted a minimum level of an existing standard. Tire rack has a good article explaining the whole topic: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=48

I replaced the parking brake bracket on my early 260z which im pretty sure uses the same mechanism. You should not have to cut the cable to get it out. I have a picture of my replacement if it helps: https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/Mechanical/parking-brake

Whenever i buy tires the UTQG rating is listed, but you are correct thats its not on the sidewall. I would just see if you can lookup your tires at tirerack.com and see if they list the rating. Its important to note though that not all tires need to have that rating, i know mud and snow tires are exempt so its possible certain race tires have the same rules.

Awesome, thanks captain. There were at least 3 priceless tips in there that im glad i read BEFORE opening and probably breaking my seat belt system.

It does split in half if you want it to but there is also an access panel for removing the core without yanking the whole box. On that last picture notice the raised area near the flap and water valve mount, that all comes out as a unit. One other word of caution: I was never able to find a decent heater core at any regular auto parts store. Autozone had a model that didnt even fit and the rest of them (napa, kragen/oriely/advanced) kept giving me corroded cores. Eventually i found a good replacement at a local radiator shop and they pressure tested it on the bench in front of me before installation and it still wasnt a perfect fit so i shimmed it with rubber.

I did the heater core in my early 260z recently and took a bunch of pictures. Check it out: https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/Interior/heater-box-rebuild and especially the last pic on this page: https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/Interior/heater-plumbing I would absolutely plan on changing all of the small hoses down there. You should be able to do the work without removing the whole dash, but if you have other things planned now might be a good time to remove it.

I have zero knowledge of the K series but this is a popular subject for the Z cars. This link covers the relay modification: http://alteredz.com/Headlight_Relay_pg1.htm Also if you check that out and it seems to work you can get a pre-built kit from a few sources including the Z store, im pretty sure they are made buy one of the guys on this forum or hybridZ

All of the above. The retractor thing is obviously intact but barely works, the pull-latch engages if you look at it funny so its annoying if you do things like breathe or lean forward to adjust the radio. I'm sure its all fixable but I havent gotten that far and having a pic of one torn apart will be helpful.

Yes it would. I have this exact same problem

Carl, the picture i posted is from an early 1974 260z

Theres your roller:

ahh, everything is clear now.. Just a few years ago they banned getting plates manufactured by third party's. Rewind to about 5 years ago and you could order period correct plates from this place online and as long as the plate number matched everything was good. Then California outlawed it. In retrospect it appears it was just to get rid of the competition.

I also dropped my tank. In the end it was worth it though because i found a bunch of rotted fuel lines that were about to fail and i got to clean the tank up a bit. Its not hard to remove if the fuel is mostly gone

I would bet money that if you switched to selling gasoline by the liter for $1.25 each, half the population would throw a party thinking gas was finally cheap again. (For those not hip to the metric system that makes gasoline about $4.73 a gallon)

Thanks again John. Ill see about getting my N42 rebuilt or exchanged for the same model and sell/trade this header. Problem solved!

Thanks John. I wouldn't buy a head to match my free header but maybe you can chime in on the differences between an N42 and N47 head. After reading some threads on this site and others my understanding is the N42 was built for leaded gas, has brass valve seats and square exhaust outlets. The N47 head has similar flow but steel valve seats and round exhaust outlets. Since I plan on buying a rebuilt head anyway I figured I could hold on to this header and buy an N47. The only good machine shop within about 50 miles of me closed (probably because they were assholes) or I would just have my head rebuilt locally. My motor is in an running fine with the stock manifold BTW.

Actually your thread made me start thinking about the whole thing.

I have a L28 motor with N42 head in my 260z, it was like that when I bought the car. A friend of mine had a header literally lying around his shop and gave it to me. Its got round ports and appears to be ceramic coated so score. The main goal is to be able to reduce under hood temps which I figure I can do by wrapping these headers, I have done this on dirt bikes and v8's with excellent results. My N42 head has square exhaust ports, this is a round header.. 1. Will this mount properly with standard gaskets? 2. Obviously there will be some restriction going from the square hole to the round one, but will it still perform better than the stock manifold? 3. I plan on buying a head that's already been rebuilt in a few months, should i move to an N47 to get the better valve seats and round ports?

Mine was pretty nasty but generally intact. I brushed and grinded as much out as i could then coated the entire thing with rust bullet (same idea as por15). Eventually ill have the motor out for something, when that happens i plan on replacing the battery tray completely.