Kurbycar32

Consider CA? I have 2, both of them beautiful.

My early 260z had a fuel pump installed in the exact same location and it was powered by a wire run around the front of the vehicle and tapped off of the resistor next to the coil. My car had 2 fuel pumps that looked like this one, one at the tank and another in the engine bay: I bought a new carter fuel pump and placed it by the tank in the rear at the stock location. After messing with the electrical to power the pump on ignition on (instead of a few hundred RPM) I was able to keep the single, silent, cheap fuel pump and discard both giant loud ugly pumps.

Correct. I supplied the pulley with my core motor. Frankly I thought it was just a pulley and not a harmonic damper, otherwise I would have taken care of it during the motor build

Both cars have AC in their future so im going to need that second row. Ill send the split one out for repair, thanks for the tip

I just got out of the garage, everything is fixed and the car is running. First the fan was an important clue but the problem was actually with the crank pulley. It looks like the pulley separated into two pieces and the round part of the pulley was sort of spinning with the rest of the pulley most of the time. When the broken pulley got out of alignment it would smack around against the other side of the pulley and the timing cover, creating the sound at random intervals. I pulled the pulley off of my other Z and the problem is resolved. The first photo is what it looked like on the car, you can barely tell its broken. The second photo is what it looked like after it was pulled, two totally separate pieces

I turned the engine off as soon as i heard the sound. The sound is awfully metallic sounding

Yes the oil pressure is excellent immediately after the motor starts up and doesn't fluctuate

Some of you may remember that I bought a hot Rebello motor for my early 260z and when I first started it there was a clunking sound. Luckily that problem ended up being a clutch slave cylinder bolt that was too long and it was resolved pretty easily. Since then I put about 200 miles on the new motor and its been reliable. Yesterday I went to my garage to start the car for work and after running for about a minute there was a horrific clunking sound so I shut it down immediately and took the truck to work. Its been cold (for the middle of California) in the low 30's (about 0 Celsius) but in the garage I estimate the temp to be in the mid 40's. After work I took out all of the spark plugs and rotated the motor by hand to see if i could feel/hear any interference and the motor spun nicely. With the spark plugs still removed I cranked the motor with the starter and still everything ran smooth. After consulting with the elders I put new plugs in the car and attempted to start it again, this time on video. As you can see the car starts and runs for about 30 seconds at about 1100 RPM before the noise kicks in. What should I be looking for?

i just found that the Z store has these clips now, and they are identical to the ones used on my early 1974 260Z: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic01e/16-9703 Heater Cable Clamp, 7/72-73 240Z Code: 16-9703 Price:$1.83

I'm a professional systems admin working in a 30,000+ node network; part of my job function is managing backup and DR. Send me a PM with some specific questions and ill do my best to help you out

Some of his equipment is pricey if its rare. Hes a super nice guy too, I wouldn't hesitate to try and make a deal.

You are in Washington, Oliver at Z specialties probably has a pile of them. If you get desperate I have a spare in the garage I plan on getting rid of but shipping is probably an arm and a leg. http://www.zspecialties.com/

Throw a garage party. Thats how i do it. Half of your friends that arent even car people will come hang out and drink beer in your garage, even if it means pulling a motor or sanding something

Yup i got a set from either MSA or BD recently. I also order a set of shifter bushings and i think they may be the same size. I lubed mine with a heavy bearing grease and its got a great feel now vs wasted bushings and whatever sand like substance used to be in its place.

i have a used 225mm flywheel lying around here. i ordered it for my car when the seller listed it as a 240mm unit and got stuck with it because shipping was more expensive than the part. you referenced part numbers and i think you may have been implying the lightweight "frisbee" maxima flywheels, i was completely unable to find one this last summer. Also beware that there are some part numbers floating around for a fidanza steel wheel, these are totally off the market and NLA. I ended up with a 240mm fidanza aluminium unit

Unless using a new flywheel i always drop mine off at a machine shop for resurfacing. The last time i did one it cost about 40 bucks, that's not worth my time to mess with trying to do it myself with sandpaper.

The auto darkening hood is worth its weight in gold, and its like 40 bucks at the old harbor freight. I used a Miller MIG welder and CO2 to make some terrible welds on my car but i had the luxury of borrowing it from a friend

How was the fit for your guys? No joke my system was so long the muffler wouldnt clear the rear body of the car until i trimmed a few inches off the pipe and re-flared the muffler slip on area. Even now its probably an inch or two too long but i convinced it to go in. I also have the MSA header so the extra length might be in that, but the complete kit didn't work for me.

I noticed a huge difference from my old broken electric fuel pump . This one is also silent and I'm not running a mechanical pump. Dave did say triples would be more power but that the modified SU's would do pretty well and are easier to tune

Nothing that great yet in terms of a video. Ill probably do an inside the car video soon with my new go-pro. Again at high RPM it sounds good, but the drone at regular city traffic speeds is terrible.

Update on the Carter P60504 fuel pump we were all talking about: The early 260z comes stock with an electric fuel pump at the back of the car but unfortunately its powered through a set of relays that determine if the motor is running at 400+ RPM AND the starter is disengaged before sending power to the pump. Since I am now using this pump as the sole fuel pump I bypassed the two relays to send power to the rear pump when the ignition is on. That carter pump is damn near silent and provides enough fuel to run the Rebello motor with modified SU carbs. I am very happy with it. The motor is unleashed and it pulls hard forever, this car is as fast as i dare take it on city streets.

I bought the complete Z store premium exhaust and their header, I'm not very happy with it. First it didn't fit, I would say this thing was 3 inches too long to fit under the car so it sure wasn't "bolt on". After trimming and fighting with it I got the pipes close enough to mostly fit under the car but its still not quite right. The engine drone is horrendous and im young enough to still really like some loud exhaust. On the high end the pipes sound great but I plan on driving this car. In the end ill end up taking it to an exhaust shop anyway to get rid of the droning sound and fix the fitment

Dave says its about 10.5:1

Thats pretty slick. if you haven't had the chance to play with one those arduino boards will do darn near anything you want them to. Its based on a programmable EPROM type chip so once its programmed you dont need the computer any longer. When this guy is done he could program the set buttons to forward and reverse the time plus the 4 wires to run the clock and hide the arduino somewhere in the dash hooked up to clean power, it would probably run forever. You could add a wireless controller too to set the clock via wifi every time it gets back to the house. Anyway the options are limitless