Kurbycar32

Complete Z store exhaust with 3-2-1 header and turbo muffler installed to replace my litterally exploded muffler. The motor is all buttoned up and runs pretty well. My 1974 fuel pump cant keep up so im finally ordering that carter unit

weird. That URL works when you have already navigated to the page once. I updated the link to the home page.

Looks like a "throttle shaft" This might be a good resource for you: http://www.ztherapy.com Check out the spotters guides * updated link.

The first pic is the flywheel with clutch attached. Also be sure to check the length of the bolts holding your starter in. This may have just been my car but the stock looking bolts were too long and interfered with the new centerforce clutch. The clutch rotated but the whole motor made a clunking sound that resembled a broken crank or some horrible dead-motor sound.

I have a fidanza aluminium flywheel with a centerforce II clutch running on the larger (240mm) flywheel size . Clutch operation feels great and i called centerforce to get their recommendation which was this clutch. I dont have many miles on it but it feels good so far.

As usual Captain that was super detailed, well done. Assuming the stock rheostat/potentiometer is in use i gather that you are using a higher draw device (incandescent/resistor) to change the scale of the voltage drop from the useless 10 ohm drop. Thats a cool trick; assuming an all LED system was in place you would need I'm guessing around a 400ohm potentiometer to effectively dim the circuit which is exponentially more than the stock unit can handle. Ill have to try that out

Captain I'm pretty sure that a circuit containing only LED's will effectively be dimmed using a regular potentiometer. The design of the circuit matters though: if a series of LED's are wired in series, each successive LED will be more dim due to the consumption of the LEDs that came before it. However if the LED's are wired in parallel the circuit would behave normally with working dim function. I don't believe an incandescent bulb is required in either case unless we are including a filament based flasher that requires load to function properly. In the case of a series type circuit I agree that a PWM circuit would be ideal and in the case of a parallel circuit the PWM would also work but might not be necessary. For the uninitiated a PWM (pulse width modulation) circuit turns the circuit on and off really fast to dim, rather than a consistent voltage drop (via variable resistance) that a potentiometer would do.

I bought some custom fiberglass door cards with built in speaker holes for my 260 which was already cut up by a previous owner. My speaker system consists of 5-1/4" speakers in the doors, 6x9's in the toolboxes and an 8" sub in the spare tire well. I am really picky about audio but am not quite audiophile status which is why i tried so hard to get a nice system installed, but it ended up being overkill. From my experience my best advice is to get a pair of 6x9's behind the seats and fire them up toward the ceiling with a slightly forward tilt before cutting up your car. The 6x9's in the toolboxes didn't require any modifications that weren't reversible: I simply removed my toolbox doors and built a wooden frame for the speakers using the toolboxes as speaker boxes. Should i want to return to stock i only need to pull the wood out and re-mount my toolbox doors. After all was said and done i found the front speakers werent making much of a difference in sound quality because the 6x9's were closer to my ears. It sounds like audiophile blasphemy but try it out before cutting up your doors.

Like Chuck said, use a good brand and use a Base/Clear. single stage paint is cool but doesnt look nearly as nice as a base/clear. My 260 is painted with PPG with extra clear coat and im glad it got that extra coat. My 4 year old son (at the time) saw me using a electric buffer and then decided to help by hitting the other side with a wire brush mounted on my drill because to a 4 year old thats the same thing. That buffed right out

I visited Kailua Kona in Hawaii last week and saw some interesting car related things. First: Jeeps are cool. I drive a Ram 2500 with a Cummins most days so driving a truck was no new thing to me. I decided to rent a Jeep while on the island because most rental cars are joyless econo-boxes and I was expecting some off-road beach driving . It was a good thing too because with the flash floods I ended up fording quite a few rivers that appeared over the main roads after rainfall of up to 4 inches per hour. The Jeep Wrangler 4 door made decent power, was comfortable to drive and would go anywhere I wanted including some off-road trails to the southern most point of the USA. I have no place for a Jeep in my life but i think my son is getting one when he turns 16 Second: Hawaii is selling ethanol free fuel! Regurgitating what I researched on the internet: Hawaiian law makers repealed the ethanol mandate when they realized that most of the ethanol used in their fuel was being imported and that the environmental benefits were not being realized. Propaganda at the pumps indicate that ethanol free gas will increase your mileage by 10-20%. For us with older cars and anyone that owns a small engine this is great news and hopefully might be a trend. This article is optimistic about repealing the ethanol mandate in other places https://www.hotrodhotline.com/legislators-look-repealing-ethanol-mandate#.VgCLht9Viko I also spotted an Orange Z in Kona, does this belong to a member?

When putting SU carbs on my early 260 i found that the throttle linkage between the main shaft that connects to the shaft between the carbs was too long and caused high revving for me. Try disconnecting the linkage between the carbs and main shaft. After i discovered this i took the worst looking linkage i had and then bent it to fit, everything works now. For the long term im going to cut one of those guys in half, trim and thread both sides, then join it with a hex standoff. That should give me an adjustable linkage

Swapping the distributor solved the backfiring issue. I disassembled the old unit and found the reluctor was all jacked up, the vacuum advance was frozen solid and everything inside was rusty. Whats crazy is that old dizzy was running on that car before the motor swap, fully daily driver status.

I had this problem when replacing the clutch recently. My issue was that the clutch wasn't fully engaging with a pedal push and the problem was resolved by bleeding the hydraulic system and adjusting the pedal. I also drove a diesel truck with wasted synchros that would do this, pushing the clutch in and out twice made it shift normally.

I believe this is the case for all re-manufactured hydraulic parts and is something dad tells you about when your 14, at least mine did. I wouldn't think anything less of Rock Auto or any other parts provider, this is unfortunately an industry accepted standard. Chris I agree with you 100% on tearing down any rebuilt hydraulic parts.

I'm ready to buy a full exhaust system from MSA but now hesitant after seeing pictures of exhaust pipes sticking out of UPS boxes

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I was worried about the centerforce having a heavy pedal, its just fine. I'm rocking the 240mm centerforce II system on an aluminium flywheel and it feels like lots of OEM clutches.

Guess and check sucks, I'd recommend getting a set of these if thats how you tune your carbs now. You cant run these at high RPM but they more than handle idle speed and yes you can tune while the motor is running. im not sure how much better the 123 dizzy could be than this ZX unit. I saw the propaganda video and its clearly better but the electronic unit just before the 123 unit looked pretty darn good too. Its probably better at doing things like cold starts and ultra fine tuning, for the money though i can have this ZX dizzy and 700 (american) bucks to put into another system..

My car was previously running Weber DVG carbs, and these were sold on the Weber website with a rubber square mouth adapter. I have also used the mercury column balance tool on motorcycles, i really hate those things. I have not used the uni-syn but I am very happy with these meters and i think these are more universal because you can buy rubber adapters for lots of different style carbs.

I disassembled my stock 260z distributor and found that it was pretty much wasted. The vacuum advance was frozen solid, the weights were stiff to move around and the Armature was mangled (not sure how that happened). Rather than deal with that I called Rebello about a distributor replacement. Dave said the 123 ignition thing was cool but really expensive (i agree) and he runs the 280zx dizzy on his race cars. I happened to have one of those distributors in my blue Z so i went ahead and did the conversion. The car runs amazing now! I have some cleanup wiring to do post-conversion (temp sensor, tach hookup, relocate the fuel pump power) but this is otherwise a working car. I drove it around the block and put some gas in it, i wasn't stranded so I'm declaring victory. Right now its running 33* timing at 5500 RPM and close to 10* at idle. Heres a glamour shot of my tuning session, its pretty awesome to have RPM, voltage and both carb sync tools working together.

I have a distant connection to public transit, they use this stuff to cover anything that might get grafiti on it. The film comes off clean and easy and it does handle curves pretty well but you might need to make some relief cuts for the headlight curves. Its actually strong enough and heat resistant so you might be able to keep them on at all times and remove a set for a show. http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_WW/Architectural_Markets/Home/product_catalogue/?PC_Z7_RJH9U5230GFR50IASARDF914I1000000_nid=7DZFDZD5XQbeGQFFKKBFDHgl A single roll is probably a lifetime supply. in fact I have a partial roll lying around somewhere

i just did the ZX distributor upgrade on my early 260z. For a $100 part it made a pretty big difference in performance, especially in the higher RPM range

I bought the paint at the auto parts store. You want to be careful with sanding because the surface has a slight texture to it that you could accidentally remove. I rubbed my parts with a scotch-brite pad extremely gently, wiped them down and applied a light coat of paint.

If you are referring to the bezel I recommend a paint designed for vinyl, it worked very well for me

The cooling spray is the same ingredient as canned air, it just blows the liquid instead of the gas. The same effect can be achieved by spraying canned air upside down and its much easier to find.