Kurbycar32

Wow way to follow up on an 11 year old post for a car you haven't had in 6 years

Chuck just listed exactly all the right equipment to buy. Weight distribution hitch, airbags if necessary and a nice trailer brake controller like Zulaytr detailed. With those three things on a decent truck you can reach towing nirvana. Seriously though give the ecoboost a good look, it sounds right up your alley.

Whoa bringing a thread back from the dead! Funny enough Matria's car ended up in my hands anyway so I feel some obligation. My first set of advice is to just get the AC unit in and set your idle to about 1100 RPM. The most important thing is to make sure everything works and not worrying about the fast idle will make things slightly easier. When that's working I would use an electronic solenoid to kick up your idle when the AC is engaged. There was a conversation about this last week with pictures and sources: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/51811-servo-diaphgram-and-control-valve-for-ac-on-a-240z/

Quick note on octane. Here in the People's Republic of Kalifornia we have at LEAST 10% ethanol and there's a movement to get that number up to 20%. It's hell on small motors.. The highest octane fuel available to me is 91, which is all I use in the Z and dirt bikes. There's a place in town with race fuel for $9/gal up to 110 octane but you have to pump it into a container, they shut you down if you put it in a car on the road. Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

Rebello says to set the timing at 33 degrees at 5500RPM. Blue I'm sure I've never lubricated my distributor which means it's likely never been lubed. I bet my vacuum advance is stuck. I did notice on my last motor the vacuum advance didn't seem to work and this is the same distributor. I'd love to get one of those 123 ignition units.. Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

I tow a toy hauler and have towed various trailers related to dirt biking and the occasional car moving. First off I would hesitate to get a full sized pickup with a V6 unless your talking about a Ford ecoboost which is turbo'ed. My real world experience with v-6's is that they list unobtainable fuel economy and are underpowered, creating a condition where the v6 is running at high load all the time. In this setup your v6 is getting equal or worse mileage than a v8 with none of the benefit. That being said any full sized v8 pickup should handle your load. I buy Dodge trucks. They have a better interior and ergonomics than the Ford or Chevy. The hemi is a great motor and the Ram 1500 and Jeep Cherokee is now available with a small diesel. If you want to go big time get a Ram 2500 with a Cummins. Mine unloaded will get 23MPG, it has infinite power, outruns most cars on the road and has a GCWR over 20,000 pounds I like Ford. They had some issues with the early Triton motors and also with their diesel motors between 2004-2009 which was when i was buying. I dont think the interior is as good as the Dodge but its OK and better than the Chevy. The new ecoboost system is pretty sweet, if i were shopping I would consider one. I dont buy GM. My whole family on my dads side works for GM, i get family discounts and I still wont buy one. From personal experience i can tell you the build quality is the worst in the industry. My last truck was a Dodge Dakota V8 and it out hauled a full size Chevy Silverado V8 to the point we stopped towing with the Chevy. With the exception of the LS series motor and the Corvette that company is dead to me. Nissan and Toyota both make nice full sized pickups. Usually they are priced much higher than the American options, especially used. To summarize my top 5 pickups would be in this order: Ram 2500 Cummins Ram 1500 (Hemi or Diesel) Ford F150 (Ecoboost or 5.0) Nissan Titan V8 Toyota Tundra V8

First thing that comes to mind here is a bad ground. The glove box light on my early 260z only has a power wire and is grounded to the bracket its mounted to. This makes me think that your power circuit is good since the glove box light is at one of the ends of that circuit. Steve gave you the correct advice but my suggestion is to change the fuse like Steve said then find all the grounding points and clean them. If fixing your grounds doesn't fix the problem on its own it will assist you with diagnosis. I detailed my experience here: https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/electrical

What model car are you working on? My early 260z has strange clips made out of a spring metal that keeps those cables where they need to be. I had a discussion about finding those clips with another member here a while ago, there were a few good pictures: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/44382-need-help-with-a-heater-control-cable-clip/ I assume a 240z is the same but I havent worked on one personally. The late 260z and later used a vacuum controlled system

Why 12v? I have a 5 gallon shop vac with a HEPA filter mounted to the wall in my garage with 15' worth of hose. It reaches the first 2 car stalls or all the way down the driveway in the first stall. Its one of my most useful garage tools

The 260z distributor is electronic, do i have a mechanical advance?

I was about to ask you the same. I havent done any excessive tuning but my idle timing looks like its -33* degrees, which seems crazy high to me. I am using the stock 260z dizzy which Dave said was going to work. I intend on upgrading the whole ignition system after this is a fully functional car again

The motor lives! Setting the timing was a pain. the motor does not have a timing marker with various degrees listed, its just a pointer and a mark on the crank at TDC. I called up Rebello and got some helpful advice on getting the motor running. After purchasing a super bad arse timing light (Innova 5568) that would allow me to adjust the timing flash to a specific degree of timing everything got easy. In addition to dialing in my timing preferences the light also has a tach, voltmeter and measures dwell. Essentially i left the light plugged in while using my carb flow meters so i had real time feedback on what the engine was doing while balancing the carbs out. This motor is rev happy! Next up is finalizing everything, triple checking the installation and then a quick drive over to the exhaust shop since i literally blew up my muffler. Next on my list of tools is a wide band o2 meter. Oranngetang what model did you end up with?

Im trademarking "Kurby's dirty switch" I took this image of a dome light shamelessly from the internet. You can see the whole circuit is exposed metal, and I bet yours looks gross. Make sure every metal-on-metal connection is nice and clean and then rough it up a bit with an emery board (use an old fingernail file). you may even need to bend those contacts a bit so they have a nice tight connection. The rotating map light is the same idea but i couldn't find a good picture, just refresh all of the contacts. My experience is that almost everything on these cars can be stripped, cleaned, reassembled and brought back to life without buying new stuff.

I have an early 260z and there are no relays between the dome light and power. You likely have a problem with the fuse or wiring. Remove the light fixture and test for power behind it. If you have power your fixture needs attention or replacing. If you do not have power do a continuity test on each side of the circuit to determine if you have a wire fault. My money is on a bad fixture, and that you can probably clean the electrical switch to get it working again.

That gasket kit did fix the problem and it was dirt cheap, only $7.30 each at Courtesy Nissan. At the same time i fixed my backfiring issue so the motor runs pretty good and fuel doesn't squirt everywhere

All black or all polished, pick one. I almost went black, but then I went back. The polished trim adds to the cars classic looks

Awesome, ill just order one of those kits. I stole this from another website that includes parts listing

Ill see if i can find some soft aluminium or synthetic crush washers and re-tighten everything. Ill update when that happens

Yup those vents are present

Exactly. If the pressure is currently exiting the fuel system and i seal that, is it just going to blow a gasket between some of the carb parts?

I bought these SU carbs used and have not run them yet. The visual inspection looks fine and I had Rebello do the big bore conversion and give them a good once over. The motor has never run so a backfire is to be expected while i get things sorted out. What concerns me is that on backfire fuel is shooting out of the banjo fittings on the sides of the carbs when the car backfires. My first thought was to replace the banjo crush washers, but if i seal those up tighter where is that pressure going to go? There aren't any leaks with the regular fuel pressure using an electric pump.

pm sent

I pulled it from the front using a folding cherry picker that I borrowed from a friend. After disconnecting everything the motor came out in under 15 minutes. I think the trick was pulling it at such a steep angle and having 2 guys guide the motor out while the third worked the lift. The black block is on its way in, the blue one was being removed

Im thinking valve and suspension springs might benefit from something like this. Also those damn springs on the AA battery holders..

Even the wife jumped up and down a little. The key giveaway was seeing orange paint flakes in the starter hole, the clutch is a centerforce.