Kurbycar32

Clucking sound solved! One of the clutch slave cylinder mounting bolts were too long and rubbed against only part of the clutch causing the intermittent clunking. The bolts were in the car when I bought it and did not rub on the OEM clutch so I'm not sure if these bolts belong here or were incorrectly installed by the previous owner.

Its like 60 miles from my house to Rebello, and I have a big arse truck to tow cars around if needed..

It sounds like Ill have to get the wife to crank the motor by hand while I investigate. I didnt measure but if I had to guess I am seeing interference at every 1/2 rotation of the crank. I do have an automotive stethoscope, I'm sure it will come in handy. Ill also try and get in touch with rebello today, I dont intend on tearing this down myself if theres some fatal flaw within it.

Pulled the plugs and found no damage Pulled the starter and found no damage to the starter or the area of the flywheel I can see Rotated the motor by hand clockwise and met resistance at what appears to be the top of #2 and #5. Carefully rotated the motor counterclockwise and met resistance at what looks to be the #1 and #6 I would like to think its something in the clutch or transmission but i cant think what that might be. The transmission is in neutral and i still get clunking with the clutch pedal pressed

The motor was not dyno tuned. It is full of oil, specifically the break in oil recommended by Rebello. Regarding the flywheel I mounted it while the motor was out of the car and I'm very sure I torqued down all the bolts properly. I am unaware of any adjustments that can be made to the flywheel so maybe you guys can teach me something there. I think after checking the plugs I'll rotate the motor by hand and hope to find something

Rather than threadjack your carb tuning thread my motor clunking thread can be found here: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/48675-just-ordered-my-rebello-30-now-what/page-10#entry470655 That gear reduction starter should crank that motor hard with a decent battery.

It depends on the event and track. Open track day for "stock" style cars can be as simple as taping anything glass, rolling down the windows and wearing a helmet

Did your gear reduction starter show up yet? I have my motor cranking and it cranks hard and fast, though i have a highly concerning clunk noise that i now have to investigate. Heres the crank video:

Motor installed and mostly hooked up. I intentionally left the drive shaft off just in case and I haven't messed with the throttle linkage, otherwise its all hooked up. When cranking the motor for the first time i got a bit of a scary clunk noise, it sounded toward the rear of the motor.

There is in fact an electric fuel pump by the fuel tank, but both of my 260's also have a second fuel pump up in the engine compartment. On the car in question both electric fuel pumps were active and i only recently bypassed the one in the rear of the car. Zed, i think you nailed it. In my haynes manual it spells out the operation clearly. The motor must be running at 400rpm or higher to engage the electric fuel pump. My goal was to not introduce new variables when swapping the motor so I think i'll hook up the existing (known working) fuel pump with the wire all the way across the car, get it running, then replace both pumps with one good one in the back of the car.

My car came to me with an electric fuel pump mounted just forward of the shock tower on the passenger side of the car. The wiring for the power went out the front of the car and followed the main wire harness around and connected near the coil, ground was connected to the base if the pump. When putting everything back together I found an extra fuel pump that came with my other z. That pump has a two wire connector hanging off of it as well as a ground wire connected to it's mounting base. Looking around I found a perfect mate to connect this "new" pump with solid yellow wires in exactly the area I would expect. I tested this plug for power though and found it was not hot regardless of key position. I was unable to find any info in the wiring schematics either. Does anyone know what this connector is for?

I pulled my needles and took some pictures for you. My needles are modified but look way better than what you showed us. Only one side is flattened and it's a nice even taper. I can't comment on how well they work but at least this looks like a nice intentional grind. Has Rebello commented on this yet?

I'd bet that if you disassemble, clean and reassemble that valve seals up nice and tight. Don't forget to clean up the threads on both sides of the connection.

I did get the "big bore" adjustment done, but i have not seen the needles in person yet. Perhaps you can post a link to the conversation you had with blue to extract the needles from the carbs. Without too much of a threadjack my motor is in. I probably need another 3-4 hours of hook up and plumbing to get it running. Kids baseball is killing me..

Get those needles figured out so i can shamelessly apply your knowledge to my clone-motor

Using a gear reduction starter from a 280 made a huge difference on my car. I haven't tried it with the new engine but I think i paid around $40 at my local parts store

I have a pair of early 74 260's, so clearly I am biased The 240's are worth more, probably always will be The early 260's in my totally biased opinion are easier to bring to daily driver status. The electrical systems are better, more of them were available with factory AC and I'm not afraid of modding a potential show car. I also get the same classic looks as a 240 which was really the whole point Why do the 260's have a bad name?: They were heavier but mainly due to the bumpers and smog equipment, which you are likely to removeThe square mouth carbs are terrible. swapping to SU or weber DVG carbs make a good running car Ultimately I guess it depends on the direction you want to go. My cars are for driving and I have no problems making a functional mod that would ruin a show car. Minus bumpers and emblems most people cant see the difference unless you look at the dash/console. I would take an early 260 over a 280 any day of the week mostly due to the stone age fuel injection on the later model. Also consider smog laws: Here in the Peoples Republic of Kalifornia a 1974 260z is smog exempt and a 1975 280z is basically wrecking yard fodder because they will never pass emissions.

3d printed objects don't really have the finish you need to look nice in your dash/console area. It would in fact look better cut out of ABS. The way 3d printed plastics are created using additive construction leaves waves in the material.

My rule is to never buy an unwashed car. It seems like 3-4k is what you pay for a complete intact but non running 240 in these parts though. There's always the occasional deal This car looks like a turd: parts only in my opinion and most of the parts look wasted

90's mustang OEM missing center caps?

I documented my HVAC installation. The AC is still work in progress but i finished all of the in-dash parts https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/Interior/blower-box-rebuild

Looks just like mine, I like it!

I would check out the balance of the driveshaft, and put that at the top of my list since you said the shaft has been spliced

And here is a sample of some of the shiny bits getting installed with it. I also cleaned and re-wrapped the entire wire harness in the engine bay and then replaced almost all of the fasteners with stainless (and Never-Seez)

I put the motor in with some help from my friends last weekend, here's some motor porn for you guys.