Kurbycar32

I believe its a rebuilt OEM clutch slave cylinder, exactly the same model Zed just linked. I disassembled, cleaned and painted it which is why its silver. Its definitely very heavy and formerly rusty steel.

That hose is indeed shorter on the slave cylinder side. Earls hose is a subsidiary of Holley so its a big company at least, that doesn't speak to their quality but i guess this is their chance to prove how well their customer service works. Im going to contact Earls and see whats up, maybe they can make me a new hose or refer me to another model.

Called MSA on the phone after not receiving a reply to my email. Garret on the phone was familiar with the issue and stated that the connection gets made on the inside of the slave cylinder and the nut at the top doesn't not fit flush as expected, so this whole situation is "normal". im not sure how i feel about that fitment

i edited the post to remove the word brake, its a hydraulic hose built for this purpose but not a brake tube. The slave cylinder was replaced about two years ago but it exactly matched what came off of the car, being 40 years old though it may have been replaced by the PO so who knows. The tube though I am convinced is OEM and is clearly shorter than the replacement part. I emailed MSA with pictures but have not received a reply yet. i could cut the threads off but i was worried about the tapered end and the narrow center section of the threaded tube fitting, i dont know how far down the fitting the narrow part goes

I have a slave cylinder that came off of my running motor/transmission and the decrepit rubber tube needs replacing. I was already making an order at the Z store so i added their stainless steel hydraulic tube to my basket: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic22b01e/21-2171. After pulling the rubber tube i found that the stainless tube has a much longer connector at the slave cylinder side. I threaded it in anyway and found that the tube bottoms out before making a connection. Are one of these parts incorrect?

My tank vents via the carbon canister line. The canister itself is gone but the line is there and runs from the tank in back to the engine bay

yes the cap is vented Ultimately it was always vented through the gas cap. The vapor tank was sealed into the same system when it was in place, it didn't have a vent either. The whole idea of the vapor tank was to accumulate gas vapor, allow it to condense and drip back into the fuel tank instead of venting glacier killing vapor into the atmosphere. I have nothing against the system but it was broken and I prefer my interior not to smell like gas. I'm no engineer but I think running gas fumes through the interior of the car is also a terrible idea and potential safety issue.

Those guys say they rent: We also Rent Torque / Honing, O-Ring and Pressure Test Plates!

My 2005 Yamaha dirt bike had brass plates blocking off access to the carb main jet that I had to actually drill out. With CA gas being so terrible I had to drill that out just to unclog the jets within the first 60 days of ownership

Somebody tell me how I screwed this up, but the car ran perfectly (until I pulled the motor) and I had no fuel smell. Using this diagram graciously made by Travel'n Man: removed the vapor tank completely discarded green hose, capped vent on tank discarded blue hose, capped vent on tank discarded yellow hose connected orange vent on tank to yellow vent on fuel filler By "discarded" i mean "allowed to disintegrate after touching". I kept the vapor tank just in case but i cant say I've missed it. This is how the fuel venting works on dirt bikes and the few classic vehicles I have worked on that existed before emissions regulation existed.

I found what appears to be actual text and pasted it below. in the case of your mostly well running 280z this would work, but its not smog exemption per-se. The vehicle owner would have to make "necessary" emissions related repairs, which does not appear to have a spending cap. it might be an extreme example but the smog referee could say to go get your pistons replaced first.. I also don't see how this would protect a motor swap situation http://www.leginfo.ca.gov/pub/15-16/bill/asm/ab_0501-0550/ab_550_bill_20150326_amended_asm_v98.html SECTION 1. Section 44011.7 is added to the Health and Safety Code , to read: 44011.7. (a) The owner of a motor vehicle that is required to obtain a certificate of compliance pursuant to Section 44011 may elect to pay a smog abatement fee of two hundred dollars ($200) if the motor vehicle meets all of the following criteria: (1) Is 30 or more model-years old. (2) Was manufactured during or after the 1976 model-year. (3) Fails a smog test required pursuant to this chapter. (4) Fails a subsequent smog test after necessary repairs were made. ( Payment of the smog abatement fee established pursuant to this section shall be made to the Department of Motor Vehicles at the time of the registration of the motor vehicle. © Fees collected pursuant to this section shall be deposited in the Air Quality Improvement Fund created by Section 44274.5.

I used a stick welder and filled the whole hole, then ground it flat. after repainting its hardly noticable. Those brass plugs diseazd did look pretty slick though, that would match the freeze plugs. In my case the connectors were completely frozen/stripped so i started by grinding the area flat first: no regrets.

If this were mine i woud tap it and install a decorative pan head screw with thread locker. Brass, chrome or maybe zinc coated like the other fasteners if you can find one. super simple, wont get sucked into the motor and looks like it belongs there.. I think im less of a perfectionist than some people here though..

I agree! Find a real body shop that does decent work

They were around $6 each, and came out of a sealed package. Additionally i ordered the replacement nut and it matched the hoaky hood bumper SAE threads and not the stock parts so they know whats up. I ordered about 15 other rubber bits for under my hood area and they all looked like great parts as well as all of the other parts i have received from BD in the past.

I ordered a set of hood bumpers for my early 260z from Black Dragon and a bunch of under hood rubber bits to go with them. I was disappointed to find the hood bumper bolt was a standard phillips machine screw, and i was more disappointed to find that it was an SAE thread which did not match the car. On the plus side the rubber bumper looked to be the right size so I was able to put that on my old hood bumper. All said and done i got enough parts to get what I needed done but it sure missed my expectations. Attached are a side by side pic of the old and new, a pic of both with the rubber removed, my hybrid assembly and finally the finished installed product.

You need a leak down tester tool, you might be able to rent one from orielly or autozone. The gist is you use compressed air to fill up a cylinder with this gauge attached and it tells you how quickly it leaks out. Its not hard to do but its not a tool most people have lying around. I googled this guide for you: http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/116-0406-cylinder-leakdown-tester/

The basic smog check here is done at idle and at 2500rpm. An "enhanced" smog check is done on a dyno with the vehicle under actual load, but I think the car needs to be OBD2 compliant for that test. My first requirement for finding a project car was smog exempt which here in kalifornia is 1975 or older

Back in the day you would buy a replacement CAT based on the type and weight of the vehicle so there were like 10 generic options that you could walk into an exhaust shop and have installed. Now you have to have a CAT with either a direct replacement or CARB executive order (official waiver) declaring that exact CAT is approved for that exact car. On newer vehicles this is a royal PITA but for cars this old many of the universal CAT's are on the executive order list. http://www.magnaflow.com/02catalytic_converters/02product/shopdisplayproducts.asp?portal=CALIFORNIA&year=1975&make=Nissan&model=280Z&engine=2.8L&splityear=PRE

I do. I'm not a professional mechanic but I did perform a motor swap on a fox chassis Mustang that required seeing the BAR "smog referee" for a very in depth review. Ill tell you that more important that your actual output, the smog people are going to test your car to its exact specifications as detailed by the emissions sticker that at least once existed on your car. The timing and idle speed have to match exactly and every vacuum line must be perfect or you fail the visual inspection before they even probe the actual output, and Im not positive but they might fail you for not having the sticker too.

The real mistake was made years ago when they thought people weren't buying their cars because the warranty wasn't long enough. If they made great cars people would buy them, but they make mostly junk. Do people ask about warranty periods and free tire rotations when buying a Lamborghini? By the way half of my family lineage works or retired from GM, I get employee pricing and I still wont buy one..

A weird former roommate of mine did close to the same thing by using a boost controller on a Volvo wagon turbo. The gist was that the boost controller manipulated the waste gate to bleed off pressure as desired, his was fancy enough to make a program similar to a fuel curve. Mechanical controllers usually have 2 boost levels controlled with a switch, but you could easily turn it down for smog testing Getting a turbo swap smog approved is another story though

The last time i walked into Orielly auto for a valve cover gasket I went home and found the sealed box was empty! I don't think the people in the store believed me but since I had been shopping there for 20+ years they gave me the benefit of the doubt and gave me a new one. Other than that I have used dozens of their gaskets without issue, but dad taught me to massage all surfaces before installing the new gasket.

After many months of behind the scenes effort, acquiring another Z and some dollars in paint i made some noticeable progress:

Hagerty refused to insure my Z during the phone interrogation after i said its possible i would take my son to the ice cream shop. I do have a daily driver for each member of the family. They also said that hypothetically if i did insure the car and then experienced a loss while doing something like daily driving they would deny the claim anyway. It seems only good for insuring cars that don't get driven. Ultimately i just called my insurance company and got a policy on agreed-value. Note thats not the same as stated value, make sure you understand the difference before buying insurance.