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Kurbycar32

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Everything posted by Kurbycar32

  1. Kurbycar32 replied to Pomorza's post in a topic in Help Me !!
    If it were bad enough yes but a small leak would give symptoms identical to what you describe. I would still do a compression test
  2. Kurbycar32 replied to Stanley's post in a topic in Exhaust
    Ive heard that several times. I think maybe it used to be true but i have yet to come across anyone that has personally witnessed it. My ATV sits in the elements year round with nothing more than a tarp, i tear through mud and puddles and put it away wet. If anything was going to rust it would be an abused dirt bike.
  3. Kurbycar32 replied to Stanley's post in a topic in Exhaust
    Coat or don't coat, rattle can is just rust prevention. in terms of heat reduction you cant do much better than actual exhaust wrap jet hot is gorgeous but does not reduce heat like exhaust wrap I would ceramic coat the headers and then wrap the whole exhaust. Wrapping brings potential rust problems if the parts get wet and then just sit on the bare metal exhaust, but personally i don't see this as an issue due to the fact that hot exhaust doesn't stay wet and many people don't even drive their Z in the rain. My ATV has 10 year old exhaust wrap thats just fine and its in much more extreme conditions than a should experience.
  4. Kurbycar32 replied to Pomorza's post in a topic in Help Me !!
    I wonder if the red stuff on the spark plug is burnt coolant, indicating a head gasket leak. You might want to run a compression check
  5. Kurbycar32 replied to Zwizzzard's post in a topic in Carburetor Central
    I havent seen one in person, but they dont come with a great reputation. Supposedly they dont evenly distribute the air/fuel mixture to the outside cylinders. You should be able to make it run though and the holley should be easy to rebuild
  6. concentrated simple green is stronger than most people give it credit, and its easier to deal with that noxious chemicals
  7. Dragged home a "Parts Car" this weekend thats way too nice to pillage. I mounted the hood latch and charged the battery, hood shuts!
  8. Interested in wheels and possible interior parts. I'm close enough to swing by on a weekend
  9. I have an early 1974 which is an 8" booster. Special order, but listed on their website: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/OBH3/535104/01305.oap?year=1978&make=Nissan&model=280Z&vi=1209260&ck=Search_power+brake+booster_1209260_3222&keyword=power+brake+booster UPC: 82617061926 BrakeBest - Brake BoosterPart Number: 53-5104
  10. Walked into Oreilly auto and asked for one. About 100 bucks and 2 days later i had a perfectly functioning booster that looks brand new. in addition to being rebuilt internally it was sand blasted and repainted on every surface. Everything left in the engine bay looks terrible, but that booster looks good:
  11. Kurbycar32 replied to rgnewleaf's post in a topic in Fuel Injection
    Cant leave CA fuel for more than 2 weeks in a small motor without gumming up a carb..
  12. Kurbycar32 replied to Steve49841's post in a topic in Open Discussions
    SledZ, how tall are your ceilings? Looking at the top of the garage door they look like regular 10" residential height, but your walls look extra tall
  13. This is the part that threw me off. A selection of jets in a box which I referred to as a "jet kit" for a motorcycle is under 100 bucks and generally universal. You can pull out whatever the bike came stock with and go up or down several sizes.I found this on fleabay, its similar to what i use for bikes and listed to work with a DCOE 40
  14. I come from the world of motorcycles when it comes to carburetors so forgive the ignorance. Why would you fill up a jet and redrill it instead of buying an assortment of jets? Also Capitan, thats pretty bad arse
  15. Francis, let me tell you a tale.. I'm 32 now, but when I was 14 I picked up a used Mustang and intended on rebuilding it for 2 years before my 16th birthday. Technically my first car was a 5.0 convertible Mustang with leather and premium everything, which sounds awesome but it was an enormous PITA. I did get the car rebuilt and running in time for me to start driving but like any old car the little stuff would break almost daily. Things like turn signal switches, window regulators, rear end (16 year old in a stick shift 5.0..), oil pumps, alternators, catalytic converters etc. and being a broke teenager I couldn't keep up with the dozens or sometimes hundreds of dollars in costs. Ultimately I hated that car because it was a bad daily driver and I couldn't afford to keep up with the expenses. My best advice is to go buy a super reliable car to get to school/work in, then buy a Z that you aren't forced to rely on. Also at 16 you are almost guaranteed to hit a drive through window or trash can and jack up your car so make sure its a disposable econobox when that happens. I'm a big fan of Ford Rangers, they are dirt cheap and pretty much invincible plus the truck will be extremely useful for the next 10 years of your life (or forever)
  16. By trade I work in IT, and I dabble in mechanics as a hobby. By chance the two crossed when I was called out to look at a computer built into an automotive diagnostics machine. I fired it up and other than a noisy fan it appears to be working, I was able to guess my way through checking the timing on a car. The man who owns it knows very little about mechanics and is looking to get rid of it, does anyone here have experience with one of these?
  17. I pulled out my notes. Dave says the valve lash is .007 cold and timing should be set at 33 degrees at 5,000 RPM. He sent me a picture of what he recommends for oil at least during break in: "Lucas engine break in additive with zinc" with pennzoil gt performance racing motor oil or motorcraft synthetic blend
  18. Yup call Dave. I specifically asked him for "any settings that would not match the service manual". He gave me some valve lash specs and advised using oils high in zinc, as well as some guidance on timing. Other than that he said it was stock in terms of service and repair. He did not perform a break in on my motor, im not sure about motors that are dyno-tuned.
  19. Kurbycar32 replied to Johnny wick's post in a topic in Electrical
    buy a regular bulb replacement, the old one lasted 40 years. I pulled my dash and refurbished the entire thing so i cant comment on changing a specific bulb, there has to be a way though
  20. Kurbycar32 replied to filletsunruly's post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    I've had two home offices. One was a converted 10x10 bedroom with a custom desk built into the closet area, i built it myself. The current house is nicer but my office is on the other side of the "great room" so its essentially share with the living room. Being mixed in with everyone else makes it feel less like working and my clients actually seem to appreciate the family aspect of the business, though they dont exactly come by for meetings, they just drop off computers. About the wife: i printed mine business cards that say "lovely assistant" and take her our to dinner all the time.
  21. Its an epoxy coat in black. Should be invincible
  22. It was pretty gnarly. the PO sort of spray painted it half assed and i think there was some truck bed liner rolled on in certain parts. I would have just put a new coat of paint on but i was pretty confident that it wouldn't stick, hence the strip
  23. Kurbycar32 replied to Z fan's post in a topic in Internet Finds
    any news on if this sold or not?
  24. Here is where i am at the moment. Good progress stripping the engine bay, and i have about 4 hours blocked out for more progress this weekend
  25. I have an early 1974 260, it came to me with solid chocks

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