Kurbycar32

i second the captains suggestion about using a known good battery. I've been in this situation twice and both times a good battery fixed the problem. Borrow one from a working car

100 low lead is already on its way out, though it will take a while. Special unleaded replacement fuels are already being tested by the FAA and alternative engines are being tested as well. Miniature turbo diesels are showing promise in certain small aircraft. It would definitely be wise to stick with a motor that runs on pump gas. Hypothetically if you had to lower compression couldn't an oversized head gasket or shim solve that?

Yes you dirtbag you finished your engine bay and mine still looks like crap. Like you, I also missed my install window. I made the purchase knowing that during the summer I would be working a 4x10 schedule with 3 day weekends and my wife and kids would be on vacation in Canada. Leaving me essentially home alone with nothing else to do and a limitless supply of help from friends. Now I'm back to 80 hour weeks and weekend activities filled with either more work or social events so i only have about 3 hours of work into this since probably August.

And that same good quality wrap will show all but the tiniest imperfections. A guy i know does vinyl signs and wrapped his own personal truck to promote his business. Surface scratches disappeared but everything else was viewable. If you bought cheap vinyl on Ebay or something, and did the work yourself you might be able to get it done affordably. I still think it would be cheaper to drop the car off at maaco or something for a $400 paint job.

I have some NOS rubber bumpers still in (old and faded) baggies. I dont have a 240 though and im not positive these are the rubber parts you are looking for. If you want to get a picture and point out exactly which parts ill check and see if thats what i have

Any pictures of those on an actual Z? I'm extremely interested

Dynolicious is available on apple devices, and supposedly it single handedly killed the G-Tech performance devices. I haven't used it myself as I have an android, and aDyno does look like a hokey toy.

Nice! i wonder if thats the one I saw being tested when i was there on Friday. I have the same carbs and cam selection. The displacement says 200 on there, is that a typo? 200 cubic inches is 3.27 liters

I was on vacation when you posted, but i did this exact same thing except I paid three times as much. Below are the part numbers from the Z store. Since I was in the clutch anyway I bought a stainless clutch hose. This is for a 240mm setup, mating to a aluminium flywheel 21-2013 Centerforce II Clutch, 81-86 280ZX-300ZX Turbo, 84-89 300ZX Non Turbo 1 21-2171 Stainless Steel Clutch Hose, 79-83 280ZX 1 21-2080 Clutch Pilot Bushing, 70-96 Z/ZX 1 60-9930 Clutch Pilot Tool 1 21-2122 Clutch Collar, 75-83 Z/ZX Coupe Non Turbo, 84-86 ZX Turbo 1 After much research I elected to use a clutch pilot bushing and not a bearing. When a bushing fails you get lots of noise and a broken bushing. When a bearing fails it has the chance of completely stripping the transmission shaft. I also have an actual 260z factory service manual, if you need something specific let me know.

I proactively installed digital flashers in my 260z without any issues, the pair of them cost about 10 bucks at Orielly auto. As I have mentioned before, light is more complicated that people assume and the biggest mistakes are using thermal flashers or putting a white LED behind a red or yellow colored lens. You might get flagged for a ticket if for example you install a white LED behind your brake lens, which would generate white, not red light when braking. If you install electronic flasher units and use colored LED's that match the lens they are behind its a pretty simple procedure to convert to LED.

Its officially arrived! I spent the last 2 weeks traveling Europe so that put a bit of delay on things but i took my first jet lagged day back to go get the engine. Rebello had probably a dozen motors wrapped in plastic that looked like they were ready to go and one wicked sounding inline 6 on the dyno with a red valve cover. Ill be working on the engine bay this weekend. Heres the best bad picture with a totally unrelated child in the background jumping with excitement.

Subscribed, i would like to know as well

reminds me of the chevy tornado. Gasoline and not available in the US. These actually look pretty cool in person Tornado 2015 | Camioneta Pickup Compacta | Chevrolet México

I called for my weekly update call. Supposedly the motor is finished, I'll go pick it up next weekend. First post was on 3-3-14, today is 9-12-14. Total time: 6 months 2 weeks also post #100

Just a few months ago i went on a quest to find one of these. I think they might be extinct. Also the cost of lightening and balancing the flywheel was more than buying an aluminum aftermarket piece. I didn't find a single "speed shop" in my area that would lighten a flywheel citing safety concerns, but there were a few regular machine shops.

Seriously, spitz17 said that in the beginning and was dead on. I had about a 2 month delay due to lack of head availability and then some more delay for me to pull everything and send it in. I got an update last week saying that the components were all ready. The head was done, the block has been done a long time now and they finished my carbs, everything needed to be bolted together. I called just a minute ago and got the same update. I have been slowly not working on the engine bay in the meantime. I hung a hammock in my back yard on Tuesday and took a nap after a dip in the spa instead, then my daughter brought me a beer without even asking. While holding a (different) beer and staring at the area I determined that there won't be a need for any metal work so its mostly justa scuff and paint situation. My body shop buddy just had a baby so I think the engine bay painting is on hold for a little while. Once I get the motor ill probably stop procrastinating and do the engine bay over a weekend, then install the new motor on another. On a positive note this is the longest this car has sat still since its been in my possession, including when I first got it and the car didn't run.

My early '74 dropped right in. I used some clamps to hold it in place while the silicone dried, and i put a screw on the bottom of each end. i figured the whole dash was messed up already, one more screw hole wasnt going to change that.

Theres always the fidanza aluminium flywheel Thats how I ended up with a spare

And a header!

I have 2 used 225mm flywheels i dont need, one of them came off of my almost daily driver just last month. it appears flat and you can have for shipping +$20. Pm me if your interested

Even here in Kalifornia you can get R134a over the counter. Theres a core charge of I think $10 a can but anyone can purchase it. Also some parts stores will rent you an vacuum pump and some gauges

You cant jack from the oil pan and its been my experience this is true on all cars. I just pulled my motor for other reasons and I estimate you need about 6 inches of lift to get the mount out. To be on the safe side you should disconnect anything rigid. Throttle, AC lines(if you're that lucky) and exhaust come to mind. Personally i would also disconnect the drive shaft but that might not be necessary

With the aftermarket radiator its doubtful that you will get an OEM shroud from a Z to work. You can try different shrouds from other vehicles but that could be an endless journey. you could make a shroud out of aluminium with little more than a jigsaw and a drill, and it might even look nice if you're careful. This radiator/shroud combo set details what your looking for when you build your own. Notice how the shroud surrounds the fan and radiator: Fans blow air much better than they suck it, and your engine fan is sucking which is why the shroud helps. This is where you need to play it by ear and see what works for you. Start by replicating a typical OEM setup: Mount the condenser right to the front of the radiator and see if both it and your radiator operate at good temperatures, you might get lucky. If you cant keep things cool you can start getting creative: You might consider spacers when you mount the condenser in front of the radiator. Putting a gap will allow air to come through the gap instead of forcing all air flow through the condenser and the radiator. The trade-off here is better radiator air flow and less condenser flow. You could also wire an electric fan just for the condenser that only engages when you activate the AC. Lots (maybe all?) of modern vehicles with electric fans actually do force the fans on when the AC is engaged regardless of engine temp to cool the condenser. You car should idle without fail all the time even in horrible conditions. If you car doesnt you should start there. The easy way to do things is to increase your idle from say 750 rpm up to about 900 rpm during the summer, or whatever you car idles at nicely with the AC engaged. If you want to get fancy you can build in an idle air control valve to automatically adjust your idle when the AC is engaged. Thats sort of a separate topic and you shouldn't attempt it until you have a functioning AC system

My stock 260z overheated just by having a completely disconnected condenser mounted in front of the radiator. more than the internal parts of your motor i would be concerned with air flow over the radiator. You will need to increase that flow by use of a shroud, bigger fan, electric fans etc. Those are facts. My opinion is that this might be easiest by upgrading your radiator and using electric fans, though other members might disagree with the use of electric fans due to the weak electrical system in these cars. Your mechanical engineer friend is overthinking things. Adding an AC to a car requires attention to the cooling system and also a provision for increasing the idle when the AC is engaged. Look at the differences between older cars with and without AC and you will find the major differences match what i just detailed.

That does sound like a timing issue. Older carb'ed Z's run timing at 17 degrees so try setting it there and see how it takes it, some people run in the low 30's so dont be afraid to set the timing by ear. Concentrate on getting the idle perfect: timing, cold and warm start and idle circuit on the carb. After that you can consider a rejet if you can't tune the rest of the carb correctly.