Kurbycar32

Mine doesnt do that. My clock does make a clunk sound about every 10 seconds but its really difficult to hear

Most modern sports cars come with this: Its a pretty big weight and storage saving technique. With modern tires I have yet to have a situation that left me with a tire that couldn't be revived with a can of fix-a-flat long enough to get me to a tire shop.

Happens to be on my desk:

Use an actual voltmeter, not a test light. Don't use crimp or twist type electrical connectors, instead use solder and heat shrink whenever possible. When I did my 260z I opened every single connection cleaned with both electrical contact cleaner and a nylon brush and reassembled. Between that, cleaning every ground connection and replacing one bad wire that a PO installed to bypass my brake light circuit all of my gremlins went away. Action photos here: https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/electrical

I just ordered the Fidanza flywheel which I verified was a 240mm setup in case anyone else was wondering. Fidanza part number 143281 I've wanted a centerforce centrifugal clutch since I was like 14 so their marketing department is doing something right. I called and verified that a centerforce II series clutch would be rated to about 300 ft/lb so short of a horror story ill be ordering that up when I get over paying more than I intended on a flywheel. Public notice: Fidanza has billet aluminum flywheels listed for this car that weigh about 15 pounds and cost $220ish. Sounds perfect doesnt it? I called Fidanza and verified they haven't made them for several years. Then I put some feelers out and tried to dig one up anyway, no dice.

No idea. Maybe I should have converted to inches when I asked him about it, this IS America after all and nobody here can work a metric system..

Yup, that should be damn close to what i ordered. What size flywheel did you go with? and how does that centerforce feel in terms of clutch weight, i intend to daily drive this thing.

Better than the boobs thread.. On another note the dude with the 2+2 sent me a 225mm flywheel when i specifically asked him for a 240mm, so i have in my possession a flywheel i dont need.

I bought a brake booster at Orielly auto, I think it was around 100 bucks and looks way better in the engine compartment than the old one. Our cars are clones, it seems every time you post something i have already had to deal with the exact same problem on my early 260..

Your ideal stereo sounds alot like what i just installed. The 2 6x9's in the rear arent necessary if you are doing door or kick panel speakers. If you want them anyway you can remove your toolbox lids and build a box in there, this keeps everything totally reversible. I listen to alot of rock music and some occasional techno, the 8" sub hits hard enough for this tiny cabin. Everything is powered by a 700w kenwood 5 channel amp. I'm running a stock 260z alternator which i think is a 40 amp, and a optima red top battery without issues. An alternator upgrade is in the works but i havent had any issues after i upgraded the battery. If i had to do it all over again i would do it the exact same way minus the rear 6x9's

causes of bad idle, in order of probability vacuum leak vacuum leak leakage of vacuum carbs out of sync or adjustment weak or out of time ignition. cap/rotor/plugs/wires/timing cylinder/valve leakage, check with compression test testing all of the above and finding a vacuum leak anyway

Peels right off actually, even after at least 2 years of being installed. Think silly putty consistency, not epoxy

I used "megamat". Its a layer of butyl rubber attached to a layer of semi-thick aluminium. Butyl is a synthetic rubber that has excellent insulation and sound deadening properties as well as being a good adhesive and completely odor free. Since the material itself is an adhesive it has almost no chance of slipping or falling off once installed. I think as long as you stay away from tar/roofing shingle type material you will be fine. Murder mat is basically the same thing, costs more and seems easier to find.

EuroDat strikes again. I snagged the flywheel and flexplate from this guy. Thanks Chas

i strongly considered using Eiji to build my motor after seeing some of his build threads and hearing nothing but good things. I live less than an hour from Rebello and shipping alone was going to save me hundreds. If you must pay for shipping i would contact both companies and do a detailed comparison before pulling the trigger.

so the deal with the alcohol is to "clean out" the exhaust and catalytic converter system BEFORE you take a smog test. The theory is that by adding alcohol you increase exhaust temps enough to "burn off" gunk and old carbon clogging up your cat and head. After that you take your car over with top tier gas and hopefully pas smog under normal conditions. Im pretty certain that you wont pass a smog test running alcohol in your tank. Does it work? The theory sounds good but I dont know anyone thats actually done it and you risk actually melting down the cat into a solid exhaust block. Your best bet is to first make sure the car is set to exactly what it came from at the factory including timing (make sure your timing mark is visible) and a full tune up, use the best gas you can find (chevron) get the car completely hot and immediately pre-test it. If you fail a pretest find out exactly why and correct the problem for real. If you need a magical emissions test fluid your car probably isn't running correctly anyway

$3500 does NOT get you a 270hp motor, but it was enough to get an basic bored/stroked rebuilt motor with used parts. I added some stuff to that base price like enlarged valves, head porting, carb tweaking.. If you called them up with 4k im sure you could get over 200hp and keep your inline 6.

Sweet! That makes me happy. Minus the triples our setup is identical except maybe the muffler, im excited to hear that. you should shoot another one in HD

Dave's estimate is 260-270hp on this build. I asked again about dyno tuning and confirmed that its going to add about 20% to the cost of my motor so thats out.

Considering my situation with an unknown clutch/flywheel, plus bang for the buck factor here is the recommendation depending on what i find in there: 225mm clutch: Grab a Maxima flywheel if you can find one, use a performance clutch like a centerforce 240mm clutch: Optionally machine down the flywheel and use an LUK clutch

i wont dispute your clutch sizes, but with a motor and clutch swap already done who knows what the PO put in there. my plan was use a centerforce if I found a small clutch, and use an OEM type if i found a turbo/2+2 (240mm) system

Oranngetang that sounds like one hellavuh setup, definitely more bells and whistles than I bit off on and attached to more awesomeness of a chassis. I spoke to Dave last week and yes he is easy to deal with and has answered every question. I am half planning on a lightened flywheel through either getting the maxima "frisbee" or having my buddy lighten it himself at his machine shop, it will be mated with an OEM style clutch or a centerforce. The hold up there is that my car has a 5 speed swap and honestly I have no idea what size or the diameter of the clutch so I'm going to pull it and check before getting the flywheel and clutch ordered up. In an effort to save costs i did authorize Dave to utilize used parts such as an oil pump and exhaust valves (i opted for the enlarged intake valves). I also didn't spring for the dyno session as it was close to 1/3 the cost of the motor for a full day session. If you're buying though ill be happy to let you bolt the motor up for comparison. The one thing i have going for me is that the motor is going into a completely driving car so there shouldn't be any suprises

Yes they do fit pretty darn good. My only fabricating experience was high school metal shop about 15 years ago now and i didn't have trouble putting it together. A pro could knock this out in a few hours with perfect welds, it took me a whole weekend. On the plus side the welds are all ground down and then covered with seam sealer so you cant see my mediocre welding skills. While drinking a beer and staring at the rusted floor before doing any actual work (as i start all projects) i considered building a support beam/seat bracket to stiffen the chassis. The plan was to use a piece of square tubing from the frame sides, across the inside of the car in place of the seat bracket, into the transmission tunnel under the car and then the same on the other side. That beam could also be tied into a set of bad dog or equivalent frame rails. After three beers and finding my seat brackets intact I gave up on the idea.

Same here. The front of the floors near the firewall were wasted but the metal was nice and solid towards the back so I didn't need to mess with the seat brackets. i took pictures of the whole process: https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/body/floor-replacement

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